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Old 08-14-2015, 06:33 PM   #1
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Question Attaching Break-away switch to TV

I tow an A frame with a Chrysler Town N Country van. Used to tow a popup.
In each case the delivery hookup folks wove the break away cable through the tow chain/clip rather than attaching it directly to the vehicle. As I get older, I start looking closer at things I guess. I don't see where the weave through the chain would do any good to break the camper in an accident. Where should it go on the TV ? How would you attach the loop? The breakaway cable has a loop at the TV end, no clip.
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:59 PM   #2
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None of my mew trailers have ever came with a hook. I had to always supply my own Carabiner. PS. I would think that the cable snaked through the safety chains wouldn't be as safe as having its own clip.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:02 PM   #3
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I feel the same way about the chain, but have been towing this way for years, very frustrating to have missed this safety issue. I wondered if a carabiner would give way before the cable would actually pull out the switch.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
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I asked my dealer why he wove the cable partially thru the chain and the answer was: " To take up some slack and keep it from dragging and getting caught. I connect my cable to the TV hitch using safety chain hole.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:12 PM   #5
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The carabiner should work fine. I had to replace my cable (for the umpteenth time) and picked up one of these:

Fastway 4' Zip Trailer Breakaway Coiled Replacement Cable
[N210-170178]

Manufacturer's Number: 80-01-2140
$9.79
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:15 PM   #6
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I use an inexpensive carabiner. However it's connected, the cable has to be pulled out of the brake box if the trailer detaches from the TV.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
I asked my dealer why he wove the cable partially thru the chain and the answer was: " To take up some slack and keep it from dragging and getting caught. I connect my cable to the TV hitch using safety chain hole.
I understand the chain helps to avoid drag, but I don't have a hole on the TV Reese hitch area for it. I do have the steel loops on the Reese that the chains hook on to and I could put the carabiner through one of those.
Where did you buy this:
Fastway 4' Zip Trailer Breakaway Coiled Replacement Cable
I thank you Deartruc as I do want to be sure it pulls out of the switch in an accident. I have a carabiner and will go that route. Willl weave partially through chain to avoid drag, check for enough slack, then to hook with carabiner.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:29 PM   #8
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If you don't want to weave trough chain, you can loop through the safety chain attachment loop a few times. Don't make it too short or it will pull out on a sharp turn.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:54 PM   #9
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I had to buy it from the dealer (for the wonderful upcharge of 100%) on the way out on our 7/4 voyage. Online was where I pulled that from.

Fastway 4' Zip Trailer Breakaway Coiled Replacement Cable - $9.79..
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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Found it on Amazon for $13.94, may be wise to have an extra and I do like the coil design. Will measure for 4 ft length tomorrow, thanks.
Now, if the brakes trip when changing out a cable, is there anything else to do once you plug in the new cable that will release the brakes, or does just putting in the new plug release them?
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:46 PM   #11
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Attaching Break-away switch to TV

Plugging in will release them but I would suggest that you disconnect the battery before you change it. That way if you have a problem getting the new plug in you will not damage your magnets
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:14 PM   #12
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Mine is looped and hooked through the safety chain to the receiver. Had a camper from PA tell me that would be a ticket in PA. The break away safety cable is supposed to be attached to the TV separate from the receiver. I couldn't readily locate an alternate point so never did anything. I did see a post where a guy attached via the license plate bracket.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:31 PM   #13
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Hmmmmmm...I always was taught to snake it from the breakaway unit to the other side
of the tongue motor lift post ("S" style if this makes sense) and then put the "loop" at
the end of the breakaway wire on the VERY solid hitch PIN before attaching the flexible
clip that goes through the hole on the end of the pin. Used this for 20 years on my
25' Airstream and never had a problem with this. Caribiners could break or rust...
license plate sounds chancey. Go for something solid on the car hitch is you can and raise your level of confidence! You want it to work if it has too...

PS: Never had an issue with the wire dragging or pulling the pin out from the
breakaway can in any kind of tight turn, or backing maneuver. Maybe stay
away from the chains too as they could get hung up with the wire?
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:38 PM   #14
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I do think the loop at the end of the hitch pin would work fine with a caribiner. I usually take my TV out for groceries, and that would be easy to reach, disconnect as needed. I ordered the coiled 4 ft safety cable so I don't have to weave it around anything to connect it. From car hookup to switch was 36 inches/so a foot of play left. And, I ordered also from Amazon/ Fastway.com the "Chain-Up" so I don't have to twist the chains to shorten then/avoids dragging, such a simple fix. It is flexible rubber/fits over the ball, and has slits on each side below to run the chains through midway to the TV. Doesn't hinder the chain function, just keeps them off the ground.
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:56 PM   #15
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The breakaway cable should probably be attached somewhere other than on the hitch. If the idea is that a detached trailer would trigger the unit's electric brakes, it should be attached to the frame of the tv or the bumper. Other wise if the hitch somehow gets loose it will still activate the brakes. I saw a post not too long ago where the sender ran a small eye bolt thru his metal bumper/license plate bracket. My dodge truck has plastic brackets so I have a loop of aircraft cable around the frame tied up out of the way with wire ties.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:29 PM   #16
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I use a 5,000# caribiner (that actually isn't climb-worthy after being used once) and attach it to the safety chain loop on the receiver. The cable is not woven through a chain. I do take a loop of the slack and pull it through one chain link close to the receiver. If the unthinkable happens, it will slip out easily and pull the switch out properly without interference from the chain.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:56 PM   #17
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Actually I no longer like this idea: " the loop at the end of the hitch pin would work fine with a caribiner" / no, because the cotter pin if dislodged would aid in the hitch separating completely. I am going with my original plan to hook it on the hitch safety chain hook just as schrederman is doing. There really isn't anything else ON my vehicle for attachment. I consider the TV end of the hitch as essentially part of my car.
I think you have to consider that the item used to hook that wire on with must not too easily give way without first pulling the brake switch. It can't be too wimpy.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DobeFanatic View Post
I wondered if a carabiner would give way before the cable would actually pull out the switch.
We use a quick link at the safety chain attach point of the receiver. For that to work, however, we assume that the safety chain will fail (after everything else has failed) other than at the attach point of the receiver. If the safety chain hook somehow rips through the receiver's safety chain attach ring, then we're up that proverbial creek sans paddles.

Things that make you go hmmm...
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:03 PM   #19
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BreakAwayyyyyy switch?

Dobe-
With all due respect I pulled that bastard ALL over creation with never a problem. The brakes on that Airstream were monsters and could slam you into the windshield, esp. if you apply manual pressure to the brake controller, within reason. In spite of this I never
had a problem with the breakaway cable nor the pin can. I always maintained it before a trip by manually pulling it out to ascertain hearing those lovely magnets clamp down on all four...also kept it clean, lubed, and covered when parked! Keep it clean as many people never check them.

To re-state what I said previously...I simply slipped the cable loop at the end of the breakaway cable over the inserted hitch pin end, and then attached
the spring cotter pin after that as per normal. NO caribiner involved...made sure the cable didn't drag ground nor hang up in any kind of turn, foward or
backing. AND...if the hitch ever gives way...I guarantee that the drag weight of the hitch and\or WDH(bars) will cause that rascal to activate and lock wheels! Just make sure the switch activates as it should and give the cable
a little breathing room when routing it from the can to the pin(or whatever...). I always crossed my chains and attached them to the holes on the Reese made specifically for that purpose. Be safe...happy trailering!

-PB

PS: I've never seen a failed hitch that was professionally installed, have you? Though I'm sure it's happened in the past...nothing is impossible...right?
Look closely at kandl's set-up above...that's what I'm talking about!
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