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Old 05-08-2015, 11:16 AM   #11
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My question is similar. How do I know when I have the friction bars tight enough. My wife cringes when she hears the popping noise on tight turns and I do release the friction on backing into sites.


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Old 05-08-2015, 11:24 AM   #12
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My question is similar. How do I know when I have the friction bars tight enough. My wife cringes when she hears the popping noise on tight turns and I do release the friction on backing into sites.


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Joe, trial and error really. Drive for a while and if the TT is still swinging hard when a truck passes you, stop, get out and tighten it a bit more. You will soon find you will know when it is "Just right" and be able to do it close every time you hook up. Trailers still will sway some, but it shouldn't be a lot, and you should not feel like you might lose control if it adjusted correctly. Some use two sway bars per their comments. There are also conditions where you have a strong cross-wind and two-lane traffic...it isn't going to always be easy and the trailer will sway more than you like or are comfortable with; find a nice campground until the wind dies down if it is bad.
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Old 05-08-2015, 12:00 PM   #13
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Ok, newbie question: How does the distribution hitch affect backing the TT?
Depends on which brand/model of WDH that you have.
Newer tech WDH with integrated sway control can be backed up without unhooking anything.
Old tech WDH with add on friction anti-sway bar usually requires unhooking the bar/bars to back up.
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:31 PM   #14
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Friction sway controllers:
Most people see the handle, and think that this is the adjustment tool. It's not. That is the on/off handle. There is an adjustment bolt 2-3 inches from the handle, which is for adjustments.

The reason for this is so you can adjust the thing for proper performance. Then whenever you put the thing on, you simply apply the handle all the way and you're done.

So the method is (which was provided on the Reese unit I used to use):
1. Fully tighten the handle, until you feel the handle bottom out on the housing. You should feel it stop cleanly. If you can't, loosen the BOLT a 1/2-turn, until you can clearly feel the handle bottom out on the housing.
2. Now take a test drive on the expressway, in light traffic. Try some maneuvers to see if things are stable. My way of doing this is a quick flick of the wheel 1 way and back to center. Enough to move the trailer to 1 side, but not enough to move the truck out of your lane.
3. Did the trailer move to 1 side, then a bit to the other side, then back on center?
-If no, pull over and tighten the adjuster BOLT 1/4-turn. Test drive again.
-If yes, that's good, but it may be too tight. Pull over and loosen the BOLT 1/4-turn.

You want to find the point just where it's clearly controlling the sway to only 1 oscillation, and no more. Too tight, and you get excessive noise, and (theoretically) a light trailer could skid sideways in the turn in the rain (like an oversteer). Never actually heard of that happening, but it could, given a good-ole-boy towing a light trailer too fast in a bend.

Once adjusted properly, remove it by loosening the handle. The next time you install it, all you have to do is close the handle all the way, and you know it's good to go!
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:17 PM   #15
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Cool! Great information Brakeman
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