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Old 04-14-2014, 08:18 AM   #1
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Ball would not release from hitch.

Equal i zer 10/1000 4 point hitch mounted from roo21RS to GMC Sierra 4x4 Crewcab, while attempting initial installation and adjustment of Equalizer to TV, had great difficulty uncoupling. Finally had to pull hitch pin and drive forward to release hitch. Hoping further adjustment of WDH will solve future problems, but would welcome advice on avoiding this issue in the future. Thanks for any help.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:36 AM   #2
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I have the exact same hitch setup. Greasing my hitch ball helped. Although I still need to slightly move the truck forward or backward occasionally if the hitch is in a bind.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:47 AM   #3
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I wonder if I need to adjust the hitch height or angle ( by increasing or decreasing # of washers and adj. bolt) to create optimal release from coupler. I will definitely grease the ball. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:59 AM   #4
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You don't want to change the angle of the hitch ball too much. It will have an effect on your WD and towing angle.
If you have it dialed in (weight bars parallel, fender measurements in spec) I wouldn't mess with the hitch angle. Just my. 02.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:05 AM   #5
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Good point, Bob. I'm in the process of the first installation of the WDH and thus have to tinker a bit with the adjustment....if only it would stop raining and snowing here in Grand Rapids, MI. :-)
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Coolyard View Post
Hoping further adjustment of WDH will solve future problems, but would welcome advice on avoiding this issue in the future. Thanks for any help.
I don't think it's an adjustment problem. Your hitch is well made and has less "slop" than some hitches. Your solution is to uncouple with the ball perfectly centered in the hitch. If you backed into the site, the ball is hanging up on the front of the coupler. Likewise, if you're in a pull-through, it's hanging up on the rear side of the coupler.
To center the ball, chock your TT wheels on both sides. Release the coupling lock and raise the tongue 6" using the jack. If the ball doesn't drop free, attempt to push the trailer (two-person job) back or forward a bit (it doesn't take much movement). If you can't do that, put the TV in neutral and release the brake. Either of these should result in the ball dropping from the coupler. Works every time for me. I also grease my hitch ball (but that's another whole discussion).

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Old 04-14-2014, 02:50 PM   #7
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before unhooking, i make sure i install the tandem wheel chocks and then i carefully pull the TV forward as much as possible.

this will clear the ball from the coupler's hasp, from under the ball.
the ball needs to be as far forward in the coupler, as it can.

i have no problems disconnecting anymore.
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:56 PM   #8
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I have found I have to pull forward also.
After everything is chocked up and I am ready to unhook from the truck, I just put it in drive and let it idle forward that 1/4" or so and it will drop right off then.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:03 PM   #9
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I have found I have to pull forward also.
After everything is chocked up and I am ready to unhook from the truck, I just put it in drive and let it idle forward that 1/4" or so and it will drop right off then.
I used to have the same problem with my tag along. I greased the ball and the lock (The part that closes under the ball don't know what it is called) and had to pull forward after that no more jumping up and down on it.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markb5900 View Post
I have found I have to pull forward also.
After everything is chocked up and I am ready to unhook from the truck, I just put it in drive and let it idle forward that 1/4" or so and it will drop right off then.
X3. I have to have a little bit of forward tension on the ball to hook or unhook the release latch on my Roo.
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