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Old 07-11-2011, 02:48 PM   #21
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Hiya,

I've had the pleasure of bending two clips in three trips. The guys at the dealership feel that it was a change in tongue weight as the trailer went from delivery weight to camping weight. When I was last in we spent quite a bit of time re-checking all the settings and re-measuring and placing the cams so that they fell precisely under the bar lobes.

I am picking up one more link of chain since delivery, and the changes we made tuned for that change in chain length.

Here's a pic of my set-up on the back of the truck:
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Look'in To Ecapť View Post
Yep, our bracket looks just like yours, Coops1 - except that our bolt was even straighter up and down.

You can count links and bolt turns all you want. That bracket design is just not up to the task. Look at the way it was pulled down over the top of the trailer frame. Not heavy enough gauge and bad design on the anchor bolt. If it were me, I'd have that bracket tack-welded in place in addition to using that anchor bolt. Chances are you're not going to need to move it. But if you did, a little grinding would free it.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Not heavy enough gauge and bad design on the anchor bolt.
Reading on other forums Reese Tech's are sending people a heavy duty version of the bracket. Other people are suggesting they tack-weld or bolt it into place. I personally wouldn't do this unless I was instructed to by them for warranty reasons but after that I'll just make it work.
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:53 PM   #24
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I'm baffled.

One wild out there thought..... look at the hitch ball.
It's not got some long threads sticking way down past the big nut
does it?
Just a wild guess-- could one of the WD bars be binding on the bottom
of the hitch ball threads when you turn?

Have you hitched it and turned and stopped mid turn to look at
what's going on back there?

Sure hope you get to the bottom of this!
Good luck!
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:57 PM   #25
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I notice that your hitch coupler is welded to the bottom of your trailer
frame tubes.
Mine is on top.
This makes your ball much lower than mine.
Your hitch is upside down compared to mine.....at least the part
that goes into the receiver.
Just take a good look under the ball in that area and make sure nothing
is able to get pinched and bind in the area under the ball in there
where the WD bars are located.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
Have you read this thread??
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:24 AM   #27
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Hi Dan,

Thanks for the thoughts. All of the V type Forest River Tt's seem to be putting the hitch on the bottom of the frame tubes. Not sure why that is, but we had to work with it.

I have a spare snap up bracket for a trip I have coming up at the end of the week. The dealership has been very supportive and they know that my comfort factor is limited by this problem. If I bend up another, we'll involve Reese and move to the heavier duty brackets.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
One wild out there thought..... look at the hitch ball.
It's not got some long threads sticking way down past the big nut
does it?
Just a wild guess-- could one of the WD bars be binding on the bottom
of the hitch ball threads when you turn?

Have you hitched it and turned and stopped mid turn to look at
what's going on back there?
That is an excellent idea, Dan. I read somewhere else (RV.net ??) that that could happen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I notice that your hitch coupler is welded to the bottom of your trailer
frame tubes.
Mine is on top.
This makes your ball much lower than mine.
I think the RV manufacturers move the position around according to how low the frame is to the ground. I have a low frame, and the coupler is on the top of the tongue frame. Many longer trailers need the extra height so they don't drag, so those trailers are higher off the ground. To keep the height of that coupler somewhat uniform, they put the couplers on those trailers at the bottom of the tongue frame.

With that, the big difference is in head assembly tilt. Mine is tilted all of the way back (coupler on top), and the above photo has the head assemble tilted far forward (coupler on bottom). I sometimes wished that my coupler as on the bottom so I would not have the potential trunnion bar/yoke rub problem, and could tilt my head assemble forward. But putting the couple on the bottom of the frame on my low profile frame, the bottom of the head assembly is going to be really low, causing clearance problems with that.
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:14 PM   #29
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I have the round bar's on my set-up so I don't think yoke rub is a problem. I'm starting to think it happened when leaving my ally at home, I have a pretty good drop when turning onto the street from the ally then the lane has a rise putting a lot of stress on the bar. I picked up 2 new brackets from a local shop here in Penticton while talking to him he says he see's about 25 bent brackets a year. Maybe the HD version is made in the US.
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Old 07-13-2011, 03:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coops1 View Post
I have the round bar's on my set-up so I don't think yoke rub is a problem.
Correct, the round bars don't have the rub problem.
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