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Old 07-20-2011, 02:25 PM   #41
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I back with my Reese without a problem. But both going forward and backing I make sure that I don't get the turning angle too sharp......I know the limit.

The spring bar/yoke rub problems with the dual cam setup only present itself when:

The trailer has a 6" or more tongue frame.

The coupler is on top of the frame, instead of the bottom.

Square spring bars are used instead of the round ones.


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Old 07-20-2011, 02:29 PM   #42
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I've backed, sometimes at sharp angles, with my Reese Dual Cam for 5 years with nary a problem. I don't believe the "backing" issue. There is something else going on. My buddy's (Cavponysoldier) has had both of his bend in forward motion to the best of my knowledge.

P.S. My equipment is identical to Mtnguy

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Old 07-20-2011, 02:41 PM   #43
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Is there another way to find out about the possible backing issue other than replacing and not backing up? In theory it would be interesting to find out the outcome.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:11 PM   #44
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I have had two friends that bent snap up brackets and they do not have Reese Straight Line Hitches. They bolted their brackets to their trailer frames. I have bent two brackets so far, both whike pulling forward out of my driveway. There is an incline and a 4" dip where the driveway meets the street. When the truck`s back tire touches the street, I have already started a left turn. This directs a huge ammount of tension on the passenger side bar. Since a left turn is in progress the tension pulls the bracket down and away from the frame. My planned cure is to use a standard 2" drop hitch with the ball mounted upside down. I will turn the ball upright and hitch the trailer creating more clearance for the driveway transition. I will install the WDH and bars on the flat street. I can enter or exit my driveway with the WDH installed sans the trunion bars when the truck is unloaded. When fully loaded the clearance is an issue without the WD bars installed. I may be able to turn the yoke over on the Reese hitch to mitigate the clearance issue. I also have 1200# t bars. The hitch works great in every situation except my driveway transition. My old trailer was lower to the ground and had rear bumper clearance issues. That took a creative approach also. I overcame those issues and inherited a new set. I guess I will continue maintaining a rigid flexibility! Noproblemman!
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:25 AM   #45
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As stated, backing up makes no difference i have been using the Reese WDS for over 12 years and had one bent bracket and that happen when i bought the 2006 RockWood i have now, there is no defect with Reese's equipment, the problem is the people at the dealerships that are not trained as well as they should be or they don't care. When a Tech says the reason they are bending because of backing up with the equipment fully attached, i would have to question is education on the matter.

Don't guess call Reese, they will give you the true Story and there test results.

I suggest this and something to think about, i never release my spring bar while backing or towing for any reason. The receiver on your tow vehicle has two weight rating one with WD&S System and one with out. By towing or just backing up with out the full equipment attached can cause damage to the receiver............Not saying it will, but it could.
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:09 PM   #46
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Well, I just got back from the dealer who has now welded my snap up brackets to my frame. He said they were having this issue a lot - said they were even seeing folks bend the heavy duty bracket. The service guy thought it was somehow related to the coupler (we have a Flagstaff 831BDHSS) and the crappy (his words) steel used in making them. Hope I can now put this one behind me.........
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:01 PM   #47
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It's just a poor design. Trying to make a universal bracket for varying width frames is the problem. Although I'm sure there's a much better way to make a universal one so it doesn't get pulled "down over" the top of the frame like that. That single long locking bolt to secure the bracket is also quite the joke.

I agree that spot welding is the way to go until they redesign the bracket.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:40 AM   #48
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Now on to the steep driveway.....that could be a problem. Not particularly from the incline, but the conversion between the street and the driveway. Any dip puts more stress on the system. As the trailer tongue raises and back of the truck goes down due to a dip, the WDH is trying to keep the 2 on the same plane as being level.
This may be the root of the problem working in conjuction with increased size of the 1200lb bars. When transistioning from level to an incline during an extreme turn, the bar is going to try and force the cam end into the same atitude as the hitch end. The 1200lb bars leave only an 1/4" gap on both sides of the cam surface. It could be possible that while the bar is twisting its also moving laterally and exerts enough side load to start bending the bracket.

I have a similar model to CamperJamie and have not experienced this issue. The difference is that I use 800lb bars from my previous camper which are thinner on the cam end which provides more lateral clearance. Thier thinner cross section may also alow them them 'twist' as opposed to the heavier bars. Technically I should be using 1200lb bars but I'm fortunate that my truck doesn't need as much weight distribution as others.

I'd be curious to hear if this issue is occurs more with 1200lb bars than others.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:43 PM   #49
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The problem seems to be with the 1200 LB bars.
I have an ultra lite and use the 800 LB bars.
I back out of my driveway onto a busy road.
This is a sharp 90 deg turn at the end.
The trailer is quite jackknifed at this point.
I've been doing this for 3 years with no problem whatsoever.
My snap up brackets have not shown any sign of being under
undue strain nor any bending.
I also routinely back into camping spots again with a pretty severe
jackknife on some of them.
I've never had a bit of problem with my hitch.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:35 AM   #50
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Thanks for all the inputs. My friend (AcadianBob) and I took my rig to an empty park and ride parking lot last week and completely reinstalled the hitch per Reese's instructions. Probably no surprise, but it had been installed erroneously. Ball was too low and the bracket that attaches to the chains was reversed in addition to the snap up bracket being tightened down to the point of dimpling the frame. The installation manual from Reese specifies hand tight & 1/4 turn beyond. Haven't installed the new heavy duty brackets from Reese yet because threads have to be cleaned with tap and die to install.
Makes you wonder why I didn't just buy hitch from and install myself with help from AcadianBob. Would have saved $300-$400. A little irritating to say the least when you pay "expert" to screw it up when all they had to do was read the "manual".

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