best anti sway for travel trailer

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by Dustyhd
Fix the problem with the trailer that’s making it sway, don’t put a bandaid on it.

Originally Posted by Lins

Ding ding ding, we have a winner.

X3

Geoff
.

[wabakami]

OK, I keep seeing people raving about the Hensley, are they good for uneven boon-docking sites or are the owners buying the kool-aid by the gallon?

My dad bought the Hensley twenty-three years ago, eventually he learned to hate it when docking, back then in Canada, you didn't have many level pull through sites where they camped and definitely when they boon-docked.

Don't get me wrong, he loved to tow with it, he had none to very little tail wagging.

The problem was if your trailer is level left to right (as you would have when camping) but your tow vehicle was tilted one way or the other (low on one side), he found it almost impossible to get the hitch bar to slide in without loosening everything or putting blocks under the TV wheel to level it.

They camped mostly in Provincial Parks and a lot of boon-docking.
The dealer (south end of London, Ontario, I believe on Wharncliffe Rd) told him it wasn't designed for uneven sites, so there was nothing they could do; this was after forking out what I believe at the time was C$1500!


Is this still an issue?


Geoff
.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by wabakami

OK, I keep seeing people raving about the Hensley, are they good for uneven boon-docking sites or are the owners buying the kool-aid by the gallon?

My dad bought the Hensley twenty-three years ago, eventually he learned to hate it when docking, back then in Canada, you didn't have many level pull through sites where they camped and definitely when they boon-docked.

Don't get me wrong, he loved to tow with it, he had none to very little tail wagging.

The problem was if your trailer is level left to right (as you would have when camping) but your tow vehicle was tilted one way or the other (low on one side), he found it almost impossible to get the hitch bar to slide in without loosening everything or putting blocks under the TV wheel to level it.

They camped mostly in Provincial Parks and a lot of boon-docking.
The dealer (south end of London, Ontario, I believe on Wharncliffe Rd) told him it wasn't designed for uneven sites, so there was nothing they could do; this was after forking out what I believe at the time was C$1500!


Is this still an issue?


Geoff
.

From my experience it can be a problem with the propride. I cannot speak to the Hensley but similar design. It can be overcome once you have experience with it like any WDH but I had similar issues to what you covered at first.

I loosen the whole thing every time using my drill with a low clutch setting now(dont use an impact wrench as their pins will break ask how I know).

If truly uneven you can raise the WD bar on that side to turn the head a bit and connect easier. I find it is best to leave it all loose until you hook up. I have never blocked the truck to level it. I chock the trailer really well with it all loose and hit it like I am hooking up train cars. If I don't do this then I can spend 30min hooking up. On level sites this is not necessary and you can slowly back in.

My driveway angles the trailer down and to one side and the truck is on the edge of the curb going the other way making things even more interesting. Even my Blueox had issues with the driveway but with it I would unhook or hook up the bars before backing or after pulling it out. You cannot do this with the Propride.

The biggest issue I have had with the propride is if not straight the tongue Jack can get blocked by the WD bars so you have to have it somewhat straight. Once you release the tension on the bars you can move them a bit. I also changed to a much smaller Jack foot to make this less of an issue.

It takes some getting used to I think as there is a learning curve. Once you get there not that different from the rest.

Hope that helps!

[NMWildcat]

Best fix for a swaying bumper pull TT is to trade it in on a fifth wheel

[WolfPup2018]

I went with the E-Q-lizer brand, 4 point sway 10,000 lb. paid like $520. TT and TV move/Sway as one unit! That is if I get a wind or a semi trailer hauling by. The 4 point is what you want

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by wabakami

OThe problem was if your trailer is level left to right (as you would have when camping) but your tow vehicle was tilted one way or the other (low on one side), he found it almost impossible to get the hitch bar to slide in without loosening everything or putting blocks under the TV wheel to level it.
Is this still an issue?

Geoff
.

Originally Posted by dbledan

From my experience it can be a problem with the propride. I cannot speak to the Hensley but similar design. It can be overcome once you have experience with it like any WDH but I had similar issues to what you covered at first.

I loosen the whole thing every time using my drill with a low clutch setting now(dont use an impact wrench as their pins will break ask how I know).

If truly uneven you can raise the WD bar on that side to turn the head a bit and connect easier. I find it is best to leave it all loose until you hook up. I have never blocked the truck to level it. I chock the trailer really well with it all loose and hit it like I am hooking up train cars. If I don't do this then I can spend 30min hooking up. On level sites this is not necessary and you can slowly back in.

My driveway angles the trailer down and to one side and the truck is on the edge of the curb going the other way making things even more interesting. Even my Blueox had issues with the driveway but with it I would unhook or hook up the bars before backing or after pulling it out. You cannot do this with the Propride.
It takes some getting used to I think as there is a learning curve. Once you get there not that different from the rest.

Hope that helps!

I had similar problems early on with my PP. Then I learned the following: It is easiest to hitch and un-hitch with the tension is off the WD bars (they swing freely back and forth). I use a cordless drill which makes running the jacks easy.
If I'm hitching on a very uneven site, I back the stinger into the hitch as far as it will slide easily - no hard hitting train type force, just have minimum pressure on it. I then get out of the truck and walk back to the hitch and adjust the WD bars so they are again loose, generally just a couple of cranks on the WD jacks by hand on the side that has tightened up. Often the hitch just finishes sliding in, other times I give the hitch head a push with my foot, that usually finishes the job.
As long as I can loosely engage the over-center latches I can fully engage the hitch with the provided OCL wrench - my petite DW is more than capable of doing do this.
FWIW, it is easiest and smoothest to unhitch with the WD bars loose and the TJ raised to remove all weight from the TV. You need to learn how to spot the sweet spot for this. When you get it, the hitch just separates. I do not use force to un-hitch. Wherever the WD jacks need to be to smoothly unhitch is where they need to be to hitch back up.
One additional comment. Last spring I was in cross winds strong enough to pull the underbelly free of the front half of my trailer. On another trip, the wind deployed one set of trailer steps. Did I know it was windy? Yes. Did I have to be any more vigilant towing the trailer or make any quick steering corrections than any other trip? No. The trailer obediently followed my truck "like a little puppy". BTW, I now put bungy cords around the steps to keep them in place - not that they are easy to pull out, often my DW can just barely pull them out (I need to address that come spring).

Personally, I don't see what the issue is with "loosening everything up". This is loosening the 2 WD jacks. It can take a couple of minutes if you use a ratchet wrench. A drill does it in seconds. My drill is also used to run my stab jacks up and down - a lot faster than using a wrench. The only other thing I do is periodically spray the inside the hitch head with dry lube, no greasy ball to deal with.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

I had similar problems early on with my PP. Then I learned the following: It is easiest to hitch and un-hitch with the tension is off the WD bars (they swing freely back and forth). I use a cordless drill which makes running the jacks easy.
If I'm hitching on a very uneven site, I back the stinger into the hitch as far as it will slide easily - no hard hitting train type force, just have minimum pressure on it. I then get out of the truck and walk back to the hitch and adjust the WD bars so they are again loose, generally just a couple of cranks on the WD jacks by hand on the side that has tightened up. Often the hitch just finishes sliding in, other times I give the hitch head a push with my foot, that usually finishes the job.
As long as I can loosely engage the over-center latches I can fully engage the hitch with the provided OCL wrench - my petite DW is more than capable of doing do this.
FWIW, it is easiest and smoothest to unhitch with the WD bars loose and the TJ raised to remove all weight from the TV. You need to learn how to spot the sweet spot for this. When you get it, the hitch just separates. I do not use force to un-hitch. Wherever the WD jacks need to be to smoothly unhitch is where they need to be to hitch back up.
One additional comment. Last spring I was in cross winds strong enough to pull the underbelly free of the front half of my trailer. On another trip, the wind deployed one set of trailer steps. Did I know it was windy? Yes. Did I have to be any more vigilant towing the trailer or make any quick steering corrections than any other trip? No. The trailer obediently followed my truck "like a little puppy". BTW, I now put bungy cords around the steps to keep them in place - not that they are easy to pull out, often my DW can just barely pull them out (I need to address that come spring).

Personally, I don't see what the issue is with "loosening everything up". This is loosening the 2 WD jacks. It can take a couple of minutes if you use a ratchet wrench. A drill does it in seconds. My drill is also used to run my stab jacks up and down - a lot faster than using a wrench. The only other thing I do is periodically spray the inside the hitch head with dry lube, no greasy ball to deal with.

Thanks! I will have to try adjusting when stuck next time as I have never tried that and seems safer. I had not loosened it all up the first few times and just left it where it was easy to disconnect. That is where I ran into problems hooking back up.

That disconnect sweet spot for me is visible when the ball lock shifts a bit when lowering.

I am very happy with mine and the good far outweighs the bad.

[Tracyt]

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-1000.html

[lewisra]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

I'm thinking very seriously about getting a Propride 3P. It's way pricey, but I ain't afraid to spend money if it works.

Tim

Contact Hensley to see how much they are selling reconditioned units for, then contact ProPride to see if they can match. I could have got a P3 for $2.2k. Sean at ProPride was very willing to work with me.

[2rad4u]

Originally Posted by dave961

This is what I use. locks 'er in tight.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html

The first response was the best response. This will take care of you.

[bikendan]

With a proper combo, a WDH with integrated sway control should have no problem controlling sway. For example, my 4pt Equal-i-zer has been great. Even towing in windy conditions through Nebraska and Wyoming.
But I have tow vehicles with the proper specs and trailer weights well below those specs.
IF you have a marginal tow vehicle, by all means get a Hensley or ProPride.
But with the proper combo, they aren't needed unless you have the money to spend on the best.

[Tcullum]

I had same problem. I love the blue ox sway pro with the proper sway bars for your tongue weight. The Hensley or Propride are very expensive and hard to hook up! With the blue ox there’s no noise and the sway bars serve both purposes. Easy hookup and reasonably priced. I bought a Hensley and sent it back!

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Best fix for a swaying bumper pull TT is to trade it in on a fifth wheel

Along with trading in that 1500/F150 for a real truck to pull the 5'ver, of course!

[Vladimir1832]

I agree with the one post. You need to fix the problem first. Sway bars are meant to assist but they don't correct issues. I would guess that if it is happening over 60 miles per hour, you are losing tongue weight which is causing the weight distribution to shift to behind the trailer axle. that is what creates sway. It could be caused by aerodynamics at 60 MPH causing you to lose tongue weight. Try shifting weight inside the trailer forward for an easy test and see how that works.

[wanderer26]

IMO the best way to completly eliminate sway in your TT is to trade it for a fifth wheel.

[Dustyhd]

Originally Posted by Vladimir1832

I agree with the one post. You need to fix the problem first. Sway bars are meant to assist but they don't correct issues. I would guess that if it is happening over 60 miles per hour, you are losing tongue weight which is causing the weight distribution to shift to behind the trailer axle. that is what creates sway. It could be caused by aerodynamics at 60 MPH causing you to lose tongue weight. Try shifting weight inside the trailer forward for an easy test and see how that works.

Sway is speed dependent. The OP at 60mph is close too what is known as the critical speed and as you approach it the longer it takes for sway to dampen out. Once you hit critical speed, sway once excited will amplify. The best fix is to raise the critical speed beyond highway travel speed by adjusting TT and or TV properties. TT loading is the biggest culprit but this poor loading can be by design not just load placed in it after purchase. A WDH with SC should not be part of a solution since it doesn’t fix the root cause of the problem but used only as a added measure of safety.

[Orlando bull]

Originally Posted by Tcullum

I had same problem. I love the blue ox sway pro with the proper sway bars for your tongue weight. The Hensley or Propride are very expensive and hard to hook up! With the blue ox there’s no noise and the sway bars serve both purposes. Easy hookup and reasonably priced. I bought a Hensley and sent it back!

Another vote for blue ox... I did a lot of research as we were getting ready to pick up our trailer and went with blue ox for it's simplicity. Easy hookup (tip, use tongue jack to raise truck and trailer, bars can almost be tightened by hand).

Maybe there are better options to completely eliminate sway, but, I haven't had any issues.

[Jeffjeeptj]

Bite the bullet and get a Hensley. The cost may put you off, but with that length trailer I would use nothing else. The Hensley solved all my sway issues.

I do not think tongue weight is being affected by speed, trailer is too long. You should check the tongue weight and there is a good way with a simple bathroom scale using a lever. Google it. Prior poster is correct about tongue weight.

If you watch youtube, there are a bunch of Hensley videos. As prior poster stated, used ones are out there. Searchtempest.com can be your friend. Also, Hensley sometimes has factory refurbed for a good price.

If you buy used, learn all the parts prior to purchase, as some can be expensive. You may need to buy a different "stinger".

I agree, hooking up is an aquired skill.

[CincyGus]

Have you looked at your hitch and the instructions for installing it to make sure it IS installed correctly? Being improperly installed can contribute to sway.

Have you weighed the trailer and gotten the hitch weight? Low hitch weight is also huge contributor to sway issues. Since your having sway problems, I would aim for 15% of the total trailer weight. Depending on where you water tank is, carrying water or not carrying water can help or hurt your hitch weight.

Making sure I addressed these two issues would be my first steps before I went out and spent fifty-hundred(s) on solutions.

There's no reason a 2500 should be having sway problems with a 32' trailer. You have plenty of truck for that length trailer which makes me think one of my two suggestions is the root cause of your issue.

[stephndudb]

Originally Posted by wabakami

OK, I keep seeing people raving about the Hensley, are they good for uneven boon-docking sites or are the owners buying the kool-aid by the gallon?

My dad bought the Hensley twenty-three years ago, eventually he learned to hate it when docking, back then in Canada, you didn't have many level pull through sites where they camped and definitely when they boon-docked.

Don't get me wrong, he loved to tow with it, he had none to very little tail wagging.

The problem was if your trailer is level left to right (as you would have when camping) but your tow vehicle was tilted one way or the other (low on one side), he found it almost impossible to get the hitch bar to slide in without loosening everything or putting blocks under the TV wheel to level it.

They camped mostly in Provincial Parks and a lot of boon-docking.
The dealer (south end of London, Ontario, I believe on Wharncliffe Rd) told him it wasn't designed for uneven sites, so there was nothing they could do; this was after forking out what I believe at the time was C$1500!


Is this still an issue?


Geoff
.

There's a trick to the Hensley. When unhitching, use the jack towers to push slightly down on the back of the hitch, lifting the nose of the hitch slightly up. This will keep it in the correct position when you pull the draw bar out. You can then back right back into it to hitch up, no problem. That hitch drove me nuts until I learned that trick. Once I got the hang of it, we could rehitch anywhere. Traveled the entire U.S. with that Hensley, including all sorts of uneven sites.