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Old 08-22-2015, 05:31 PM   #11
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Just use a 5/8" gr 5 or 8 bolt and lock nut. If you have carbide drill bits, drill the end and install a padlock.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:34 PM   #12
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Not smart enough to know.. But no chance of a side load / rocking of the bolt pulling the lock out if it is drilled? I am guessing the forces are just front to back?
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:39 PM   #13
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Not smart enough to know.. But no chance of a side load / rocking of the bolt pulling the lock out if it is drilled? I am guessing the forces are just front to back?
If you use a 5/8" bolt & lock nut, you tighten the nut and install the padlock on the exposed thread portion.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #14
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Thanks, but I have a question on it. When you put the locking mechanism on the pin, is it a positive on where you don't worry that it might fall off while towing?
Yes, the lock portion snaps on securely with a "click". The only dowside of it is that in order to snap the lock portion on, the key must be inserted in the lock at the same time.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:42 PM   #15
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If you use a 5/8" bolt & lock nut, you tighten the nut and install the padlock on the exposed thread portion.
thank you... Looked right past that part, just woke up for night work.. Need my coffee I guess. That seems much better than a seized on there hitch lock that never seams to be rust resident as they say here in the great NE!
Thank!
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:51 PM   #16
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I have the Master lock mentioned above. But have not used it for any distance yet. That will change soon. It seems to be very heavy duty and has the rubber cap covering the keyhole.
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:03 PM   #17
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I do not want one that has the bent pin. The bent portion works it was to the receiver and it's making the 5/8 hole in receiver look like a egg.
I think you must be pushing the pin in too far. I have been using the bent pin type for a LOT of years without issue. The vast majority of the force is clearly front/back. The only way it could oval the hole is if it is in too far when the front/back force is applied.
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:25 PM   #18
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I think you must be pushing the pin in too far. I have been using the bent pin type for a LOT of years without issue. The vast majority of the force is clearly front/back. The only way it could oval the hole is if it is in too far when the front/back force is applied.
I have .100 of slop between the WDH shank and the receiver on the truck. This constant movement somehow work the pin in and it's wearing the 5/8 hole.... Working on a clamp to hold the shank to prevent any movement in the receiver... Meanwhile I made a bushing with a set screw that I've slid on the pin up the the bent portion of the pin, no more egg shape wear,.
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:42 PM   #19
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I have .100 of slop between the WDH shank and the receiver on the truck. This constant movement somehow work the pin in and it's wearing the 5/8 hole.... Working on a clamp to hold the shank to prevent any movement in the receiver... Meanwhile I made a bushing with a set screw that I've slid on the pin up the the bent portion of the pin, no more egg shape wear,.
I guess I could see that happening. It sounds like you have a good solution to give you peace of mind. I cannot believe it would ever really be a safety problem, though. I had my last truck for 14 years and it never broke the receiver using a bent pin. Those parts generally are made to deal with the forces that are placed on them.
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Old 08-22-2015, 11:27 PM   #20
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I've had a master for 20 years
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