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Old 08-21-2015, 05:51 PM   #1
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Best Locking Receiver Hitch Pin

Looking to get a Locking Hitch Pin. I have no experience with these locking ones. Which one is the best? I want one that when it's locked you don't have to worry that it didn't lock and might come off. In short, I want one that's the best and 100% idiot proof...
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:57 PM   #2
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Check out the BOLT locks on Amazon, it will use your truck key.
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:52 PM   #3
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I used a reese for awhile. It worked until I went to remove it... Seized on there. Had to grind it off. I now have a Master Lock brand class 5 pin. I works well and it is either on or off.. The lock is about the size of a small padlock base so it can be a pain to work around it when hooking up the safety chain hooks. I only leave it on when the WD head is in (I do not want to grind this one off either). I just spray the inside with WD-40 to keep it happy.
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Old 08-21-2015, 07:06 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by coffeebean43140 View Post
Check out the BOLT locks on Amazon, it will use your truck key.
^^X2

Bolt is the best IMO. It save me having an extra key AND if you store your trailer away from home it insures you will have the key when you go to pick up the trailer

EDIT: I formerly had a Reese and never really had a problem with it except the extra key. In any case, the only drawback I know about any of these is if your truck has any obstructions like the trailer light cable connection very near the hitch. I always make sure to put the lock side away from the obstruction so the key is easy to get in.
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:03 PM   #5
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Get a lock with a rubber boot on it to keep out the crud and also put some dry lube on it to prevent (reduce) rust.
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:15 PM   #6
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that's no the only thing that stays happy with a shot of wd40! I use it on the hitchball, crank-down stabilizers, and anything else that is metal and is designed to move. Keeps me happy as well, when things slip and slide easily into place.
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Old 08-22-2015, 03:42 PM   #7
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I also use WD40 to remove the adhesive left over from when I removed all those idiot and product advertizing labels on the outside of my TT

back to the receiver lock. I do not want one that has the bent pin. The bent portion works it was to the receiver and it's making the 5/8 hole in receiver look like a egg.
I'm think the Master Lock/Extended might be the one, Anyone using this one?
http://www.autozone.com/trailer-hitc...ck/164251_0_0/
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:14 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by gashog View Post
I also use WD40 to remove the adhesive left over from when I removed all those idiot and product advertizing labels on the outside of my TT

back to the receiver lock. I do not want one that has the bent pin. The bent portion works it was to the receiver and it's making the 5/8 hole in receiver look like a egg.
I'm think the Master Lock/Extended might be the one, Anyone using this one?
Master Lock/Extended length receiver lock 1469DAT at AutoZone.com
Hmmm.. Off topic again but my one side has a slight egg shape. I wondered why, now I know... And knowing is half the battle!

Thanks!
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:21 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by gashog View Post
I also use WD40 to remove the adhesive left over from when I removed all those idiot and product advertizing labels on the outside of my TT

back to the receiver lock. I do not want one that has the bent pin. The bent portion works it was to the receiver and it's making the 5/8 hole in receiver look like a egg.
I'm think the Master Lock/Extended might be the one, Anyone using this one?
http://www.autozone.com/trailer-hitc...ck/164251_0_0/
Yep, been using that one for both the boat and the tt wdh. Still works great after 4 years of use....
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #10
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Yep, been using that one for both the boat and the tt wdh. Still works great after 4 years of use....
Thanks, but I have a question on it. When you put the locking mechanism on the pin, is it a positive on where you don't worry that it might fall off while towing?
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:31 PM   #11
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Just use a 5/8" gr 5 or 8 bolt and lock nut. If you have carbide drill bits, drill the end and install a padlock.
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:34 PM   #12
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Not smart enough to know.. But no chance of a side load / rocking of the bolt pulling the lock out if it is drilled? I am guessing the forces are just front to back?
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:39 PM   #13
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Not smart enough to know.. But no chance of a side load / rocking of the bolt pulling the lock out if it is drilled? I am guessing the forces are just front to back?
If you use a 5/8" bolt & lock nut, you tighten the nut and install the padlock on the exposed thread portion.
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:40 PM   #14
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Thanks, but I have a question on it. When you put the locking mechanism on the pin, is it a positive on where you don't worry that it might fall off while towing?
Yes, the lock portion snaps on securely with a "click". The only dowside of it is that in order to snap the lock portion on, the key must be inserted in the lock at the same time.
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:42 PM   #15
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If you use a 5/8" bolt & lock nut, you tighten the nut and install the padlock on the exposed thread portion.
thank you... Looked right past that part, just woke up for night work.. Need my coffee I guess. That seems much better than a seized on there hitch lock that never seams to be rust resident as they say here in the great NE!
Thank!
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:51 PM   #16
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I have the Master lock mentioned above. But have not used it for any distance yet. That will change soon. It seems to be very heavy duty and has the rubber cap covering the keyhole.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:03 PM   #17
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I do not want one that has the bent pin. The bent portion works it was to the receiver and it's making the 5/8 hole in receiver look like a egg.
I think you must be pushing the pin in too far. I have been using the bent pin type for a LOT of years without issue. The vast majority of the force is clearly front/back. The only way it could oval the hole is if it is in too far when the front/back force is applied.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:25 PM   #18
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I think you must be pushing the pin in too far. I have been using the bent pin type for a LOT of years without issue. The vast majority of the force is clearly front/back. The only way it could oval the hole is if it is in too far when the front/back force is applied.
I have .100 of slop between the WDH shank and the receiver on the truck. This constant movement somehow work the pin in and it's wearing the 5/8 hole.... Working on a clamp to hold the shank to prevent any movement in the receiver... Meanwhile I made a bushing with a set screw that I've slid on the pin up the the bent portion of the pin, no more egg shape wear,.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:42 PM   #19
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I have .100 of slop between the WDH shank and the receiver on the truck. This constant movement somehow work the pin in and it's wearing the 5/8 hole.... Working on a clamp to hold the shank to prevent any movement in the receiver... Meanwhile I made a bushing with a set screw that I've slid on the pin up the the bent portion of the pin, no more egg shape wear,.
I guess I could see that happening. It sounds like you have a good solution to give you peace of mind. I cannot believe it would ever really be a safety problem, though. I had my last truck for 14 years and it never broke the receiver using a bent pin. Those parts generally are made to deal with the forces that are placed on them.
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Old 08-22-2015, 10:27 PM   #20
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I've had a master for 20 years
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