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Old 05-26-2015, 08:51 PM   #21
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I have a 2013 Touareg TDI and tow with a Hensley, the Touareg hitch was altered by Can-Am Rv in London Ontario to accommodate the use of WD,( because the Germans don't understand the concept) I have no problem towing a 29+ft trailer with this set-up and the mileage seems to keep getting better. This is one awesome tow vehicle.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:47 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by jlgail4309 View Post
Not sure I can add much to this post. Some great comments have already been posted. I bought the Hensley cub hitch because it fit my needs. In light wind in traffic I was fine. In high wind with trucks passing it was more than my setup could handle. The hensley fixed the problems
Something that I haven't seen posted even with the Hensley High wind over 30 mph you will still have to slow down or stop. Your TV is to light to hold the road well. Or at least for me I feel the setup being tested to the fullest in the high wind. food for thought My be some one with the ProPride hitch and a trailer your size can comment on the high wind over 30 in traffic.
It's hard to get an accurate feel for exactly how a hitch performs on the forums. Some members seem to think it is only sway if they are physically hurled into the ditch by the trailer. Others consider ANY movement at the pivot point to be sway. When I read accounts of people claiming to tow a 35' TT in 50mph crosswinds with an SUV and a standard WDH with friction bar getting "NO SWAY", it's clear we have a differing definition of the word. I KNOW for a FACT that there is some massive pivoting going on at the ball with that setup. The amount of friction required to keep that trailer completely straight in line would probably keep you from even being able to initiate a turn on anything but dry pavement!!! With that being said, with the PP and a 9K+ TT behind my F150, I get the push from high winds just like the FW guys claim. It doesn't pivot at the attachment point- which is exactly what the mechanical design is supposed to keep from happening.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:56 PM   #23
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I have a 2013 Touareg TDI and tow with a Hensley, the Touareg hitch was altered by Can-Am Rv in London Ontario to accommodate the use of WD,( because the Germans don't understand the concept) I have no problem towing a 29+ft trailer with this set-up and the mileage seems to keep getting better. This is one awesome tow vehicle.
That's awesome. And here I thought I was the only one on here towing with the Touareg. I wouldn't mind a truck but I LOVE the fuel mileage I get while towing... definitely nothing can compare. What alteration did you have to do to the hitch? I've heard of a structural modification that can be done and it's on the list, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Is that a 29' including or not including the tongue? Mine is 24' but 29' if you include the hitch. I would have loved to have went with the 29HFS, but I was real nervous about the over-all length.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:59 PM   #24
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It's hard to get an accurate feel for exactly how a hitch performs on the forums. Some members seem to think it is only sway if they are physically hurled into the ditch by the trailer. Others consider ANY movement at the pivot point to be sway. When I read accounts of people claiming to tow a 35' TT in 50mph crosswinds with an SUV and a standard WDH with friction bar getting "NO SWAY", it's clear we have a differing definition of the word. I KNOW for a FACT that there is some massive pivoting going on at the ball with that setup. The amount of friction required to keep that trailer completely straight in line would probably keep you from even being able to initiate a turn on anything but dry pavement!!! With that being said, with the PP and a 9K+ TT behind my F150, I get the push from high winds just like the FW guys claim. It doesn't pivot at the attachment point- which is exactly what the mechanical design is supposed to keep from happening.
Getting pushed I'm OK with (I've driven my mother-in-laws class A before). But the sway is what makes me pucker up. It just seems to take everything for a ride and can sometimes be a b**** to recover. And I haven't even been out in over 20mph winds yet... lol.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:15 PM   #25
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Oh I see now you have (Advanced Warning) when a Wind Gust is coming! Its a Death Trap! Hensley is your Upgrade! Youroo!!
second that... they seem to be the only and i mean the one with sway control on the market. look at their product line and decide which of the competetors has something the same or similar.
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:40 PM   #26
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What our you guys getting on mpgs while towing and unloaded with the VW diesel. I'm getting 13 at 65 any faster and it drops off about a 1 per gallon for every 5 miles per hour.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:43 AM   #27
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I've always been the one defending myself, previously towing a 3000lb popup behind minivans, and a 27' hybrid behind my short wheelbase Mounty. Everybody said I shouldn't do it (expecially the minivan thing), even though I was within all limits, and the rig was stable.

But your situation just seems inherently unstable. Either you have not tightened the controllers enough, or you plain need a physically bigger tow vehicle.

Are you sure you have those 2 sway controllers cranked down enough. Note that the lever/handle should be tightened all the way (threads bottomed out). You then make actual adjustments with the bolt that is 2-3 inches from the handle.

I simply feel that if you need to spend thousands to make the rig stable, something is inherently wrong with the rig. I know many people swear by PP and Hensley, and I'm all for getting something better, for more peace-of-mind. But that should assume that the rig is reasonably stable before the big investment.

Yours sounds like something different, and it should first be fixed (if it's fixable).
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Old 05-29-2015, 01:03 PM   #28
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I've always been the one defending myself, previously towing a 3000lb popup behind minivans, and a 27' hybrid behind my short wheelbase Mounty. Everybody said I shouldn't do it (expecially the minivan thing), even though I was within all limits, and the rig was stable.

But your situation just seems inherently unstable. Either you have not tightened the controllers enough, or you plain need a physically bigger tow vehicle.

Are you sure you have those 2 sway controllers cranked down enough. Note that the lever/handle should be tightened all the way (threads bottomed out). You then make actual adjustments with the bolt that is 2-3 inches from the handle.

I simply feel that if you need to spend thousands to make the rig stable, something is inherently wrong with the rig. I know many people swear by PP and Hensley, and I'm all for getting something better, for more peace-of-mind. But that should assume that the rig is reasonably stable before the big investment.

Yours sounds like something different, and it should first be fixed (if it's fixable).
It wasn't always unstable. It tows like a dream in low wind... it just gets scary in higher wind (over 10-15mph). I am certain that the friction bars are not set up correctly because I physically could not set them up correctly. I tried to set them up to where the handle would bottom out, but if just physically couldn't. On both bars, the handle was hitting the bracket before I could get the threads bottomed out. I'm sure it was something I was doing wrong, but I could not get them to bottom out. But that shouldn't have mattered because tight is tight... it shouldn't matter whether it is tight from the handle or tight from the bolt. I think the proper adjusting is more meant to keep it consistent... but maybe I'm wrong.

I bit the bullet and bought the P3. I cried for a few minutes, but it will be worth it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 01:14 PM   #29
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I bit the bullet and bought the P3. I cried for a few minutes, but it will be worth it.
It will be. Those tears of sorrow from the hit the ole wallet took will turn to tears of joy when you start towing with it. You'll probably be like me and kick yourself for not doing it sooner!!!!
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:14 PM   #30
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... What alteration did you have to do to the hitch? I've heard of a structural modification that can be done and it's on the list, just haven't gotten around to it yet. ...
Check out my post on how CanAm RV fortified the reciever on my Dodge minivan. (I pull with a Hensly Cub)

You must "get around to it" and I mean 'now' . I'm willing to bet that your receiver is bent (like mine was) and was likely bent by your first tries at WD. (I recall your issues with the bars not loading properly?) If you're not really getting good WD...that is certainly not going to help your TV plant itself and at least help keep it's own bum from getting waggled.

Check the pics out and then go to your local welder and have them fab something up for you. (make sure they understand to concept!) You gotta do this, or you're just getting 2/3 the PP advantage...untill your bumper rips off. There is no doubt this "projected pivot point" voodoo is putting yawing motions into the receiver. If your receiver is anything like mine was, it's going to get fed up. You wouldn't want that nice shiny PP to get all scratched up...would you? (oh yeah...your safety chains?...they'll still be attached to the receiver...that is still attached to the PP...as your TT passes you on the interstate)...ok ok, exagerating abit..but seriously...get your reciever reinforced!

Welcome to the P.P.P. Hitch Blub, BTW. They're right...you will never tow without one, ever again.
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