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Old 01-24-2013, 09:20 PM   #21
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" White Knuckle NIGHTMARES "

Thank all of you for your testimonials. Some of these stories are truly the "WHITE KNUCKLE NIGHTMARES" that we all want to avoid. Having a safe and comfortable trip for the family and others makes all the difference.

This thread is a great learning tool or should I say teaching tool for those who are new to towing and a reminder for us that have been camping for several years.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:48 PM   #22
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There are a few things that need to be looked at and the first thing in my mine is the hitch work, it is very important that the hitch work is set up correctly with travel trailes..... I had a real bad time with a bad hitch job from the RV Dealer.

This happen with my 3/4 ton GMC Suburban the same one that I mention in this thread and with the very same camper. I was on I-76 heading to Hershey, I-76 is 65 mph as soon as I reached 51 mph the Suburban and Rockwood started to sway I was all over the road teying to get I under control, It was so bad I thought I was going to loose it, to make a long story sort I did get things under control and continue my trip at of a speed of 45 mph, once I park the camper in our site and unhooked and drank a cold beer the next thing I knew both of my rear tires went flate, now the tires where 3 weeks new and they where 10 ply tires "E" rated come to find out from the near out of control sway it had damaged the bead on both tires, once we left the campground after replacing the rear tires I toke the camper back to the dealer and what they had found was that the hitch too low and the sway bars where not in the correct position, they had to take the entire hitch system off and start over, once it was corrected I never had another problem. I also found out that the tech that did the work on my hitch was new at it, so t with this type of short order training it could have killed me and my family or I could have kill someone else...,So yes you do have to have the correct tow vehicle for what you are towing but as far as 1/2 tons they can be used safely.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
REALLY sorry this excellent post degraded into a truck debate.
James, thank you for posting your story.
It should give folks something to think about.

Herk
If more people were educated by camper dealers in the first place a lot could be avoided. They only want the sale though. I've seen many that have said " your truck can pull it", but what they didn't say was " it shouldn't pull it". Many of us have been in his shoes. I bought my first gas engine dually to pull my first 5er only to find out I couldn't run the speed limit on the interstates. After many mods, I still wasn't comfortable doing so, so I ended up buying a diesel dually to do it. Now I pay more attention to ratings.
I'm not getting into a debate which manufacturer is better, gas or diesel, I was simply trying to pull too much weight with a gas engine. I, and others thought I would have no trouble pulling it, however I did. Lesson learned.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:33 PM   #24
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There are many issues - safety being first and foremost of course. Longevity I'd put second - why wear out your truck needlessly? Comfort/convenience is third - sure, 70mph up hills can be nice but you'll still get there at 45mph.

Problem is few people get to tow a 'big' trailer with multiple vehicles to know what's 'best' and whats 'acceptable' and what's too little.

My expy does fine wiht my 28' ~6300lb loaded trailer. Or so I think it does. But i've pulled a lot of various trailers and have a 12' ft cargo trailer now. Except for acceleration and visability i'd rather pull the 28' trailer over the cargo trailer for safety/comfort. The WD hitch and trailer brakes make a BIG difference.

Sure, a 3500 diesel will be 'better' than a 1500 truck but is it necessary?
I'd say take the tow ratings as a starting point but consider GCWR just as important and allow for a cushion between your load and the limits. Being at the limits is of course going to stress the equipment and the driver more.

I'll know more come april/may when I tow with the new TV. Does WB make a difference? I'm add 24" of it so if it does I should see/feel it. Moving from GCWR of 12,500 to 14,400, from no margin of 'safety' to nearly 15%. Torque is similar but HP will be up 30%.

I'd also like to say that if you have to modify your tow rig to handle your load you chose the wrong tow rig.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:46 PM   #25
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Wow

VERY interesting reads......and now that I THOUGHT I did a good thing trading in my 2005 Burb with 180K miles on it for a spiffy new 2012 Burb (yes the 1/2 ton) I read all of the postings here and now have doubts.

I will be towing a new Roo 233S which isn't really rated to be that heavy (GVWR @ 5764) and my new Burb has the Integrated Brake Controller with a 5.3L V-8, 6 speed electronic HD AT, HD Trailering Package with the 3.42 rear end and External Air-Oil and Air-Trans Coolers. By GM specs tow rating is 8100 lbs so I "believe" that I am WELL underneath that.

Granted I haven't taken ownership of my new Roo to tow it around yet, but I sure hope that I don't end up finding out a 3/4 ton purchase would have made more sense :-(
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:00 PM   #26
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VERY interesting reads......and now that I THOUGHT I did a good thing trading in my 2005 Burb with 180K miles on it for a spiffy new 2012 Burb (yes the 1/2 ton) I read all of the postings here and now have doubts.

I will be towing a new Roo 233S which isn't really rated to be that heavy (GVWR @ 5764) and my new Burb has the Integrated Brake Controller with a 5.3L V-8, 6 speed electronic HD AT, HD Trailering Package with the 3.42 rear end and External Air-Oil and Air-Trans Coolers. By GM specs tow rating is 8100 lbs so I "believe" that I am WELL underneath that.

Granted I haven't taken ownership of my new Roo to tow it around yet, but I sure hope that I don't end up finding out a 3/4 ton purchase would have made more sense :-(
I haven't looked at your numbers but I know others will.
I know what you mean! you think and do your best to do the right thing only to find out that you need a math or engineering degree to realize that you need a bigger truck. I have a feeling 90% of RV'ers do not visit the RV forum sites and learn about all this. Most of them look in the truck manual, listen to the dealers and get an RV and off they go. And you know what? for the main part, they are doing just fine! I like to educate myself and know the ins and outs of the equipement I use so I come to the forums and learn. The rest comes from experience.
Just do your best with the rig and TT. If you still feel uneasy about the setup after a couple of trips, then you should trade the truck or the TT. Otherwise, sleep tight.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:14 PM   #27
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As I started visiting a couple of RV forums I noticed it wasn't so simple as knowing a couple of numbers. Everytime I thought I had a good choice in mind I quickly found out otherwise.

It can be sad to put trust into a salesperson only to find out later that they were either clueless or couldn't care less.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:28 PM   #28
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oh and by the way.... I chose very carefully to match the truck *that was recommended by an RV salesman as well as a truck salesman and my brother in law and my dad* .... get the picture? to get a 5th wheel to match the truck after spending a year reading the forums.... only to find out that pin weight and hitch weight were different.... after I bought the 5th wheel.
it is NOT easy buying a truck and a TT or 5th wheel on round 1
We are all doing our best.
Our truck is 2010 and we are not ready to trade in so it is what it is.
Having said all that, if I could do it all over again, I would not worry so much and just enjoy the rig as it is. .... like I do now!
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:24 AM   #29
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I hear you! I am pretty confident that I will be fine pulling my little Roo with my new Burb. At the same time, I have picked up a lot of good insight and information on these forums so I do understand the various possibilities of what to expect. What interests me most is final ownership...actually having my TV &TT wieghed so that I can see what I really am dealing with in the end.

Thanks for all of the input and the awesome information shared here.

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Old 01-28-2013, 06:20 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by ebemis View Post
VERY interesting reads......and now that I THOUGHT I did a good thing trading in my 2005 Burb with 180K miles on it for a spiffy new 2012 Burb (yes the 1/2 ton) I read all of the postings here and now have doubts.

I will be towing a new Roo 233S which isn't really rated to be that heavy (GVWR @ 5764) and my new Burb has the Integrated Brake Controller with a 5.3L V-8, 6 speed electronic HD AT, HD Trailering Package with the 3.42 rear end and External Air-Oil and Air-Trans Coolers. By GM specs tow rating is 8100 lbs so I "believe" that I am WELL underneath that.

Granted I haven't taken ownership of my new Roo to tow it around yet, but I sure hope that I don't end up finding out a 3/4 ton purchase would have made more sense :-(
One thing: I had all of that "blah blah blah" that manufacturers put onto all kinds of vehicles.... I had the 5.3L V-8, the 4L60E with HD trailering package, HD Power Steering, Oil to Air and 40K LB Tranny Cooler HD... PLUS I had the 4:10 axle ratio with a tow rating of 8100 lbs. I will never give a hoot again about ANYTHING that ANY engineer or marketing person says about a vehicle. It is all B.S. All of it... There is an old saying in the JEEP community which I belonged to for decades. "JEEPS are built, not bought". The same holds true it would seem for most trucks and SUV's. I have found that I literally had to take apart and undo what manufacturers have done so that I could put it all back together with stronger components that SHOULD have been there from the git-go.
I don't understand the "let's just put out the cheapest crap we can while we still can" mentality of car manufacturers. I'm serious when I say I would pay the extra money for parts that actually perform and last as they should... My God, there have been times when spending an extra buck-fifty for a part would have made world of difference!! But did the car companies do it? No.

Okay.. sorry. The decline of quality manufacturing in our country and especially our auto industry just sets me off. I will stop now.

Ebemis: I don't mean to make you nervous with any of my thread. You DO HAVE the 6-speed tranny. This will go a long way toward making your towing experience manageable. Just go with it and have fun! My only advice is what I said in my very first post. IF you find that your 1500 isn't cutting it for towing your particular rig... don't waste money on shocks, lift kits, air bags, deeper axle ratio's, aftermarket exhaust kits or "tuners" or "chips".... for love of Pete, just get rid of either the SUV or the Trailer. You will just end up heart broken from all the work you've done to find out you cannot turn a 1500 into a 2500.

James
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