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Old 09-05-2014, 10:13 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by DAISY BOYKIN View Post
Grooved and dimpled rotors will give you about 60K miles of use along with
ceramic brake pads. I am on my 3rd set of rotors on a F-150. The wheel bearings will only last about 30K miles on a F-150.

Good luck on your brake repairs!

I shop @ NAPA went with their "better" pads and rotors all the way around. 70k on my F150 and no problems. Dimpled and drilled wear out just as fast and cost more.

If you're replacing bearings every 30k I'd get a new mechanic.

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Old 09-05-2014, 10:47 AM   #12
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FWIW, re-surfacing rotors does not make them warp faster. Re-surface them and put ceramic pads on.

30,000 miles on wheel brgs is absolutely absurd. Get a new mechanic or get rid of the Ford. In over 58 yrs of driving, never had to replace a front wheel bearing on any of my GM products. Also, never replaced a rotor or a drum, just re-surfaced the rotors/turned the drums and replaced the pads/shoes.

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Old 09-05-2014, 12:17 PM   #13
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X-2 on the Auto Zone Duralast Gold or C-Max ceramic. Lifetime against cracking, checking and/or noise only. AZ also came out with Duralast GOLD rotors in the past year. They are a high carbon content rotor for better heat dissipation. They are also coated and there is NO prepping involved to install them. Do not remove coating from braking surface. The first application of the brakes will remove the coating from the surface and leave coating on the rest of the rotor so they won't rust.

I put C-Max and new regular rotors on my 2001 Chevy 1500HD (a year before I sold it) and what a difference it made!!! Smooth effortless stopping and absolutely no noise.
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:49 AM   #14
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OEM pads, or higher-end aftermarket pads are fine. If the previous pads had certain chamfers, make sure the replacements do as well. It's a science, NVH prevention.

Regarding rotors, same thing. Get a comparable replacement, preferably something that has a painted/coated "hat" section to prevent corrosion in that area. I do not recommend any slotting, grooving, nor drilling, unless you race your vehicle and replace the rotors for every race anyway. For a daily driver, you actually want more thermal mass to absorb the heat from the caliper/pad, and let the venting cast the heat to the air. Drilling may allow the rotor to cool faster. But the reduction in weight (while good for racing) also means it has reduced stiffness which means more possibility of....warping!
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:18 PM   #15
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I'd recommend EBC.

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Old 09-26-2014, 06:33 PM   #16
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I have EBC on a 3/4 ton. It reduced braking distance by 30% over stock. Yellow pads made for heavy towing. They work great. You do get some dust from them. But to me worth it.

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Old 09-26-2014, 07:37 PM   #17
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I bought EBC yellow stuff pads and Powerslot chryo frozen rotors. They were expensive, but I'm very happy with them. Did the install myself.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:55 PM   #18
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If you are heating up brakes by towing then your trailer brakes are not doing there job properly, the tow vehicle should not be stopping the trailer.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:02 AM   #19
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It is my belief that the vast majority of "warped" rotors are not actually warped. I am not here to tell you that yours are or are not warped, but only to offer some information that you may possibly use to potentially prevent the premature need for replacement rotors in the future.

This is one of the better explanations I have found about the typical cause of pulsating brakes...
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

And this was copied directly from
"Uneducated people still say “My rotors are warped”. Well the engineering facts are ROTORS DO NOT WARP, they are made of cast iron, they are very tough and can be run to red heat and cooled time after time and they will not distort, we do this day in day out on our dynos in the EBC lab. Thats why the whole world still uses cast iron as a vehicle brake rotor material, there has never been anything to beat it and probably never will be."
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:12 AM   #20
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Hmmm. I dunno. The run-out sure gets off.

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