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Old 07-13-2016, 07:50 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
...looking at the vid mike.t posted... on the brake pin at the truck ... you should see volts when braking. the meter is on DC function with the other lead on a known frame ground of the truck. likewise, on that same lead but on the cable to the trailer ... should show you continuity to ground. meter on ohms one lead to the pin trailer end; the other on the trailer frame ground.
If my truck was here i would run a test of all circuits and relay the readings of them to you. DW took it to Sacramento.(just over 18 mpg

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Old 07-13-2016, 07:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BadAngus View Post
I've learned a TON over the past two months just by reading post threads.
X2. Ive had RVs off and on since 1981 and I have NEVER stopped learning by reading the posts in this forum. This is the MOST informative forum on the subject, bar none!


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Old 07-13-2016, 09:48 PM   #13
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Thanks, WolfWhistle. I finally got my hands on a multimeter today, but I was trying to test by putting the black lead on the "ground" pin on my 7-pin connector, and the red on the electric brakes lead. Hooked up that way, I saw approx 12V whether the brakes were applied or not.

I will try it your way. It sounds like with those two procedures I can rule in or out the plug and socket.
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Old 07-15-2016, 02:18 PM   #14
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Another thought

I don't know much about trailers, except my 5er, but recently when I did something bone headed I learned something from another RVer. He said had I done anything at all to the unit since everything worked properly. He said really think and check what you did and then see if it's done right.

Then he said check (in my case) the ground on the trailer disconnect safety cord and sure enough that was it. I went to two trailers dealerships to see what was wrong and they said it was the truck. Both the unit and TV are 2015 vintage. The GMC dealer said after a thorough test that it had to be the trailer. When I would put the 7 way in without hitching it would work fine but as soon as I hitched it would tell me (in the truck) to check the trailer brakes and wiring. Finally while at Camping World I checked the connection and saw I had trapped a wire under the screw. I used a 10mm to free the wire and we went on our way. So all in all I had three trips to two dealers and two trips to my GMC dealer. In the end it didn't cost me anything but stress and feeling foolish. Good Luck.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:06 PM   #15
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if you have steady 12v I would think you are testing the wrong pin... maybe you were on the steady 12v supply from the truck? Make sure your testing the right pin. I assume you were testing at the truck with the cable disconnected.
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Old 07-16-2016, 03:07 PM   #16
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:49 AM   #17
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Troubleshooting mission accomplished

Thanks for all the great advice. I started troubleshooting at the 7-pin connection, then worked backwards.

Turns out I should have started at the back and worked forward, because the problem was easy to see. Every one of the wires that connect to the trailer brakes was ripped out.

I'm guessing I hit a chunk of retread on the road and it went up into the trailer wheels and ripped out the wires.

Now I'm trying to find a schematic so I can re-wire everything, but I'm feeling confident I'll be able to figure it out.

Thanks again ... you guys rock!
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:02 AM   #18
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The magnets aren't polarity sensitive, so you can hook them up either way and they'll work.

If the magnet wires are different colors, just connect the same color throughout to positive and likewise to negative. If they're the same color just pick one and go with it.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:46 PM   #19
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Dolly brake problem

My 2014 Sunseeker motor home was wired wrong at some point, the electric brake blue wire was in the 1 o'clock position were derect 12v power should have been.The black 12v power was in the 5 o'clock position were the blue electric brake wire should have been. I did not notice right away and I have pulled the master tow dolly around once or twice. I did not have any brake in the way they were wired from the factory and now that I have corrected it. I still do not have any brake. Could the direct 12v black power have damage the electric brake system on the dolly. As I know get a Short curceit indecation on the brake control. I have power from the RV to the middle of the dolly, but not at the wheel. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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