Brake system troubleshooting help?

[BadAngus]

Hi Gang. I am trying to figure out where to start with a problem I'm having, so naturally thought of you guys first.

At some point during my 300 mile trip home last night, my trailer braking system stopped working, so I'm trying to come up with likely starting points.

A few details: I'm towing my Grey Wolf 21RR with an 01 SuperDuty, which has a DrawTite Activator2 brake controller. At some point during the trip home, the system stopped working.

The trailer brakes don't respond when I apply brakes in the truck. The brake controller doesn't show any errors -- but it DOES show the indicator that there isn't a trailer hooked up. I double-checked the cable connection and validated that all the lights are good, but still no brakes or indication that anything is hooked up to the brake controller.

I live in Chicago and keep both the truck and RV an hour out of town, so dealing with problems is an extra hassle. I'm hoping you guys can short-cut me to figuring it out with some suggestions.

All the best!
Brian and Ann, Smoke Freaks Competition BBQ

[Bama Rambler]

When you say you double checked the connection. Was that just making sure that the 7-way was plugged in, or did you test it for voltage when applying the brakes?

If you didn't test for voltage at the truck, I'd start by doing that.

If the clearance/stop/tail lights are working it shouldn't be the ground, but I think I'd check it just to be sure.

If you have voltage at the 7-way connector, then I'd move to the junction box under the RV and make sure you have voltage there.

If you have voltage at the junction box when the brakes are applied, then I'd move to the wheel that the brake wires go to first and check voltage there.

By this time you should have figured out where the problem is located.

[BadAngus]

That is exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. I'm not the best when it comes to electrics, but my intuition was telling me to start at the socket/plug connection.

It will be really helpful to have a process to work though while troubleshooting.

Travel safe!

[Iwannacamp]

You could start at the wheels... usually the wire sticks out like a sore thumb and would be easily snagged... but then the trailer connectors are far from bullet proof. I assume you know there is a circuit breaker on the brake controller.. don't forget it.

[BadAngus]

To be honest, I don't know much about RV systems once they veer off the happy path.

My wife and I are competition BBQ cooks and found a used Grey Wolf toyhauler this year to make things a bit easier on ourselves vs competing out of popup tents and a rental truck. So we went on a crash course to learn about all the basics and especially the what-to-dos and what-not-to-dos.

Then we got rear-ended our first weekend out, and we got to learn a bunch more stuff.

Anyway, I didn't know the Brake Controller had a circuit breaker, so I will take it as another thing to learn about.

Thanks so much for the tips. It was sages like you guys who helped me quickly break in to the pro BBQ circuit at a respectable level, and I'm really glad such a community also exists for RVing. I've learned a TON over the past two months just by reading post threads.

[mike.t]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7uw1Jv1stc

[BadAngus]

That video was great. I'm trying to get my hands on a multimeter today.

My googling also suggests there is some kind of tool you can plug into RV plug to test those contacts as well.

[Flybob]

You can also use something like this. This is an example only. Not endorsing this vendor.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...k/PK12741.html

[mike.t]

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-...P-QaAuhk8P8HAQ
sorry. did not see flybobs reply

[WolfWhistle]

...looking at the vid mike.t posted... on the brake pin at the truck ... you should see volts when braking. the meter is on DC function with the other lead on a known frame ground of the truck. likewise, on that same lead but on the cable to the trailer ... should show you continuity to ground. meter on ohms one lead to the pin trailer end; the other on the trailer frame ground.
WW

[mike.t]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

...looking at the vid mike.t posted... on the brake pin at the truck ... you should see volts when braking. the meter is on DC function with the other lead on a known frame ground of the truck. likewise, on that same lead but on the cable to the trailer ... should show you continuity to ground. meter on ohms one lead to the pin trailer end; the other on the trailer frame ground.
WW

If my truck was here i would run a test of all circuits and relay the readings of them to you. DW took it to Sacramento.(just over 18 mpg

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by BadAngus

I've learned a TON over the past two months just by reading post threads.

X2. Ive had RVs off and on since 1981 and I have NEVER stopped learning by reading the posts in this forum. This is the MOST informative forum on the subject, bar none!

MANY THANKS, One and ALL!

[BadAngus]

Thanks, WolfWhistle. I finally got my hands on a multimeter today, but I was trying to test by putting the black lead on the "ground" pin on my 7-pin connector, and the red on the electric brakes lead. Hooked up that way, I saw approx 12V whether the brakes were applied or not.

I will try it your way. It sounds like with those two procedures I can rule in or out the plug and socket.

[pontiacdan45]

I don't know much about trailers, except my 5er, but recently when I did something bone headed I learned something from another RVer. He said had I done anything at all to the unit since everything worked properly. He said really think and check what you did and then see if it's done right.

Then he said check (in my case) the ground on the trailer disconnect safety cord and sure enough that was it. I went to two trailers dealerships to see what was wrong and they said it was the truck. Both the unit and TV are 2015 vintage. The GMC dealer said after a thorough test that it had to be the trailer. When I would put the 7 way in without hitching it would work fine but as soon as I hitched it would tell me (in the truck) to check the trailer brakes and wiring. Finally while at Camping World I checked the connection and saw I had trapped a wire under the screw. I used a 10mm to free the wire and we went on our way. So all in all I had three trips to two dealers and two trips to my GMC dealer. In the end it didn't cost me anything but stress and feeling foolish. Good Luck.

[WolfWhistle]

if you have steady 12v I would think you are testing the wrong pin... maybe you were on the steady 12v supply from the truck? Make sure your testing the right pin. I assume you were testing at the truck with the cable disconnected.
WW

[bluewoo]

[BadAngus]

Thanks for all the great advice. I started troubleshooting at the 7-pin connection, then worked backwards.

Turns out I should have started at the back and worked forward, because the problem was easy to see. Every one of the wires that connect to the trailer brakes was ripped out.

I'm guessing I hit a chunk of retread on the road and it went up into the trailer wheels and ripped out the wires.

Now I'm trying to find a schematic so I can re-wire everything, but I'm feeling confident I'll be able to figure it out.

Thanks again ... you guys rock!

[Bama Rambler]

The magnets aren't polarity sensitive, so you can hook them up either way and they'll work.

If the magnet wires are different colors, just connect the same color throughout to positive and likewise to negative. If they're the same color just pick one and go with it.

[46chevy]

My 2014 Sunseeker motor home was wired wrong at some point, the electric brake blue wire was in the 1 o'clock position were derect 12v power should have been.The black 12v power was in the 5 o'clock position were the blue electric brake wire should have been. I did not notice right away and I have pulled the master tow dolly around once or twice. I did not have any brake in the way they were wired from the factory and now that I have corrected it. I still do not have any brake. Could the direct 12v black power have damage the electric brake system on the dolly. As I know get a Short curceit indecation on the brake control. I have power from the RV to the middle of the dolly, but not at the wheel. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Andy