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Old 11-21-2018, 01:03 PM   #1
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Breakaway Cable Connection Strength

Three Questions

1) - Should not the breakaway cable be connected to the TV?

2) - Assuming the that the cable should be connected to the TV, what is the necessary breaking strain for the connector? IOW, will a Home Depot carabiner do the trick or is something stronger required (How Strong.)

3) - With a relatively weak connector, such as an HD carabiner, what are the chances of it breaking on its own and slamming the trailer to a panic stop?

TIA from a towing novice.
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Old 11-21-2018, 01:14 PM   #2
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Yes...

On a TT it should be connected to the hitch...same for a 5'ver!

A bigger Home Depot or Walmart carabiner will be enough to keep it intact!

That's what I've been using for years...

Of course, I've not yet experienced a breakaway trailer yet!

The other end on the breakaway switch pulls out much easier than you might think!

I did pull forward once and found out just how easily they will pop out!
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Old 11-21-2018, 01:15 PM   #3
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I use a carabiner to connect my 5th wheel to my TV. It is more than strong enough to withstand the force that is required to pull the pin on the break away switch. I have actually pulled the brak away pin a couple of times over the years (my bad) with no damage to the carabiner. The brake away switch does not require must effort to pull the pin out and set the brakes of the unit.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:03 PM   #4
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Carabiner will be fine. I also learned how easy they pop out by dropping a WB round bar on it prior to disconnecting the chains and the safety. Ooops! Was a good lesson though because I learned where it was (inside the drivers side rail), how to put the plug back in and that I should disconnect my chains and the breakaway cable BEFORE I take the bars loose ;-)
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:15 PM   #5
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You'll be fine with the carabiner. Just make sure you keep some slack in that breakaway cable. As others have stated, they pull out pretty easy. Likely hood of a carabiner failing in this application is pretty slim as there really isn't any tension applied to it unless there is a breakaway situation and even then it won't need to withstand much pressure to do it's job.
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnD10 View Post
...should be connected to the hitch...same for a 5'ver!
Not sure I'm 100% on board with that statement.

I think it is a risk that the fifth wheel hitch will break free of its attachment to the truck, and you will have no braking of the fifth wheel as it careens down the highway without you.

I attach my breakaway cable to one of the tiedowns in the truck bed ensuring that the brakes are coming on in the trailer no matter what lets go.

Cheers.
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Old 11-22-2018, 02:16 AM   #7
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The key, or pin, in the breakaway switch pulls out very easily; in fact, you can pull it out by hand. So, if you use any kind of metal carabiner it’s going to be plenty strong enough for the job.
One disturbing thing I’ve come across on more than one occasion is finding the breakaway cable woven into the safety chain. Doing this will significantly increase the amount of force needed to pull the pin out and should be avoided.
I run both the umbilical and breakaway cables through the locking pin on the coupler. This keeps them up high and prevents cutting them in a very tight turn. It can also prevent dragging the umbilical down the highway if it should come unplugged.
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:53 AM   #8
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I have a bed saver on my hitch so I’m pretty sure I’m not going to lose the camper. I hook up the break away cable
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Old 11-22-2018, 08:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by mlatter View Post
Not sure I'm 100% on board with that statement.

I think it is a risk that the fifth wheel hitch will break free of its attachment to the truck, and you will have no braking of the fifth wheel as it careens down the highway without you.

I attach my breakaway cable to one of the tiedowns in the truck bed ensuring that the brakes are coming on in the trailer no matter what lets go.

Cheers.
Chances of a 5'ver hitch coming unattached from the truck bed before that breakaway pulls out are pretty slim to none...

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Old 11-22-2018, 08:55 AM   #10
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By law in most states the break away should be connected to the tow vehicle, not to any part of the hitch. If for some reason the hitch fails and comes off the tow vehicle the brakes wont be activated. That being said it is many times hard to find something right there to connect the wire to. I like most others connect mine to the hitch. One of these days I will crawl under and attach something to the truck itself to connect the wire too.
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Old 11-22-2018, 09:07 AM   #11
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I think it's a pretty good idea to pull out the pin every so often. At least once or twice a year. The switch is cheap and not really weather resistant.

Dirt and road grit can get inside it. It's possible the contacts could become so dirty that they won't make a good connection.
Also I once found mine so cruddy that it was very difficult to pull out the pin.
It's another item that needs checking!

I'd test mine when we're heading out from home but I have to back all the way out the driveway so I try to remember to check it in a parking lot or campground by pulling the pin and easing forward to test the brakes.
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Old 11-22-2018, 09:18 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cabinfever97 View Post
By law in most states the break away should be connected to the tow vehicle, not to any part of the hitch.
That's pretty funny as the day I picked up my 5'ver from the dealership it had that cheezy straight silver cable with a loop on the end of it...

And guess where the dealership (who also installed my Reese 16K Pro Slider hitch that same day) hooked that cable to?

This is pretty funny (well, maybe not)...they just slid the looped end of the breakaway cable over the hitch's jaws locking handle and told me that was the best place to attach the breakaway cable!

I have since replaced that cable with a coiled cable and put a carabiner on the end of it and a larger carabiner is permanently attached to one of the unused bolt holes on one of the lower arms of the hitch so I can easily connect to that.

I bought the longest coiled breakaway cable available, and it won't reach anywhere else in the bed of the truck without stretching it out and putting tension on it, or making the bed of the truck useless for carrying anything as something might shift and pull the cable.

That hitch is NOT gonna fall out of this truck unless I'm in a rollover situation, and even then it is highly unlikely...not to mention that chances are the 5'ver would be on it's side as well!

You can see both the jaws handle and the carabiner on the left side of the hitch in the photo below...I don't have a photo handy showing the coiled cable...
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Old 11-22-2018, 09:41 AM   #13
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Which should ' engage ' first , the breakaway brakes or the safety chains ?
My brother and I have discussed this for 30 years .If chains catch first then the trailer will run into your truck as you slow down , If brakes catch first the trailer should stop the truck and trailer .
I believe brake cable should be shorter than chains !
Going up a hill in New Hampshire two years ago we had the ball mount slide out of the receiver and the brakes quickly brought every thing to a stop . Luckily , no traffic , we put every thing back together right there in middle of road and got underway in ten minutes .
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Old 11-22-2018, 10:34 AM   #14
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I use these cables and they come with the carabiner.

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Old 11-22-2018, 10:44 AM   #15
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I throw the factory loop over the handle of my Reese Fifth wheel hitch. I agree with JohnD10 if the hitch pulls chances are you are stopped and on the roof or sideways in the ditch. Have to wonder if the coiled plastic thing is UV rated for exposure and how long before it breaks down and fall apart.
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Old 11-22-2018, 10:46 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by M&K Hoffman View Post
I use these cables and they come with the carabiner.

That's what I have on my 5'ver...a 10-inch one, I believe.

Bought mine at Camping World.

Although I did put a better carabiner on it!
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Old 11-22-2018, 10:49 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by B and B View Post
I throw the factory loop over the handle of my Reese Fifth wheel hitch. I agree with JohnD10 if the hitch pulls chances are you are stopped and on the roof or sideways in the ditch. Have to wonder if the coiled plastic thing is UV rated for exposure and how long before it breaks down and fall apart.

The "COILED PLASTIC THING" is a steel cable.



Features:
  • Coiled design keeps breakaway cable from dragging on the ground
    • No frayed ends
    • No need to loop cable around trailer tongue
  • Universal fit - works as replacement cable for almost any pin-style trailer breakaway system
    • To replace, cut old cable off at the switch pin and thread the pin onto the Zip cable's integrated split ring
  • Included carabiner makes it easy to clip cable to your tow vehicle
  • High-strength cable is made of woven steel
  • UV-protective coating boosts durability and is scratch resistant
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:31 AM   #18
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My set up is exactly like John's.
Carabiner permanently attached to the hitch, a coiled break-away cable (with it's own carabiner snaps into the other carabiner. Keeps everything up and out of the way for other things.
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:33 AM   #19
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My set up is exactly like John's.
Carabiner permanently attached to the hitch, a coiled break-away cable (with it's own carabiner snaps into the other carabiner. Keeps everything up and out of the way for other things.
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:43 AM   #20
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I think it's a pretty good idea to pull out the pin every so often. At least once or twice a year. The switch is cheap and not really weather resistant.

Dirt and road grit can get inside it. It's possible the contacts could become so dirty that they won't make a good connection.
Also I once found mine so cruddy that it was very difficult to pull out the pin.
It's another item that needs checking!

I'd test mine when we're heading out from home but I have to back all the way out the driveway so I try to remember to check it in a parking lot or campground by pulling the pin and easing forward to test the brakes.


I pull it from it’s housing every time I hitch up. I loop it through where the tow chains hook to then plug it back in to receptor.
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