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Old 04-10-2016, 09:16 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by GalsofEscape View Post
Not the same camper but the same dry weight, hitch weight and lenght. I do have the Hemi though and a different wdh. My point was the SUV as a tow vehicle can work. Yes, there are alot of things to consider, but you would have to consider alot of factors in selecting the right truck too. The distain for the SUV regardless of the set up by some people is quite clear.

I apologize if I came across as snarky... Wasn't my intention.
Would the Hemi set-up vs the OP's V6 have the same suspension, I wonder?
I'll admit... I do have some distain for towing with SUV's... But I do have apples-to-apples comparisons. I towed with two different SUV's (Chevy Trailblazer & Nissan Armada). The Armada (5.6L on a Titan frame) felt like it towed "good enough". I think my V6 Trailblazer would be pretty comparable to the OP's V6 Durango. As I look back now, I realize it wouldn't have mattered what mods I did to it, I wouldn't have been comfortable towing as much weight as the OP. Heck, I wasn't comfortable towing 3,500lbs with it.

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Old 04-10-2016, 09:37 AM   #72
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I used to own a 2011 Durango V6 though I never towed a big TT with it. We had it for 90k miles before trading. It was very solid and designed with towing in mind (based on Mercedes RWD ML/GL/R platform). The ML GL and R class along with the Grand Cherokee and Durango are chassis cousins.

If the Durango is equipped with the towing package, it would have the Nivomat load leveling rear shocks and HD cooling. ESP Trailer sway control was standard across the model line. Pretty sure the V6 with tow package would have the higher payload capacity and 6200 lbs towing (IIRC my max payload was close to 1800) vs V8. Mine had the Mercedes 5spd auto (which has been in production for years and largely bulletproof), newer ones have the outstanding ZF 8spd auto, not sure if that change upped towing capacity. Wheelbase was actually longer than Tahoe, Expy etc. but narrower track.

I think for the OP, if you have to keep the TV, I would upgrade to a Pullrite or Hensley hitch and switch to LT tires in the 18" size. Oh and definitely get tow mirror extensions.

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Old 04-10-2016, 10:05 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by DebMar View Post
It was noisy even driving straight, grinding the entire ride. Once I removed it, nothing. And WDH I upped it one more link, it was bobbing like crazy. Pulled over and put back to 3rd link and came home
Make sure you put some grease in slip in bars if that's the style you have. Also grease the ball and socket. (Grease is good) Since you've isolated the sound to the hitch, I'd ignore it. A truck cab is more isolated from the sound of all these strange noises generated by the hitch. In an SUV, you are right there in the same box as the hitch so I would think the sound is more amplified.

I assume the noise isn't your chains dragging, ha.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:05 PM   #74
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I had the same experience and resolved it.

If you do not have your existing hitch setup properly, then that could amplify your issues, so you should pursue those options... If you are happy, then you saved some money. But I had my existing hitch and anti-sway and weight distribution/leveling all dialed in within spec and trailer sway was still an issue that I would not accept. I refuse to drive across our country with white knuckles and in fear of every curve, wind gust and truck passing me.

I had the same experience and I know that the person that I bought my 2011 Stealth SS-2216 Limited from sold it for the same reason. Trailer sway is very scary and causes many accidents and rollovers. The first time I pulled my 27 foot Stealth toy hauler with my 2008 Sequoia it was white knuckle driving and very scary experience on some curves. I swore that if I could not resolve this, that I would sell the trailer and get a 5th wheel. But after much research I bought a hitch solution that completely eliminated trailer sway and now I have to remember that I am even pulling a 27 foot trailer. I am new to this forum and I read the rules. So I do not want to advocate any products or brands... but if you email me or call me at 760-803-4509 I would be happy to discuss what i bought. It was not cheap (~$2500), but it was worth every penny and much cheaper then selling my Stealth and buying a truck and a 5th wheel. I am an engineer and I have to say that this product is ingenious and completely solves this issue. I cannot make my trailer sway now if I tried... And I did try! I did slalom and on and off soft shoulders on purpose with no issues.
I am taking an 8 week long trip from San Diego to Alaska this summer and I would not go without this hitch. It is every bit as good as a fifth wheel and some say better. Do not despair...
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:32 PM   #75
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They sold you one of the cheapest hitch. I got one in my barn just like it. Mine did the same thing no matter what I did. The hitch didn't have enough fiction to control the force on the side of the trailer. Either you will replace your tv or get a lot better hitch. If you crank down on the friction bar it will make the sway better in good conditions. But in high winds or trucks passing it can't control the sway. Mine would make all kinds of noises and shake going around corner. I had the same ride home it a learning curve and it costs a little money. But camping is worth it . Your doing all the right things !!
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Old 04-10-2016, 03:24 PM   #76
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What you describe is exactly the issues I had initially with our new TT, light in the front, bouncy and lots of sway over 50mph. We are really close on maximums and in order to feel safe we 1) changed to LT tires 2) change to heavy duty Monroe Reflex shocks, 3) changed to a Equalizer WD anti sway hitch (we used one like you have at first). HUGE difference, now we can tow 65 without much issue. BUT, we can now tow comfortably, but now see why most folks on this forum always recommend upping the TV. We will as soon as we can afford it.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:11 PM   #77
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What I can tell you is I pulled my Mini Light 2304KS weighing 5000lbs with my 2015 Dodge Durango on several trips on the Hiway, and never had any significant trailer sway. I use a Equalizer 4 point WDH and even with semi's passing me no significant trailer sway. I have switched to a F-250 not because of the capability of my DD but the F-250 provides better side/back viewing and payload capacity. Sounds to me like your WDH is not set up correctly.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:39 AM   #78
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In our Durango we always had the clunking noises from the sway bars. Same hitch setup on the new pickup and don't really hear it that much now. It is because it's an SUV and the noises come directly inside the cab. Everything you have described so far are the same issues I had with our Durango when we first started towing. Noises freaked me out till I realized it was normal. Again, the best thing we did to improve handling was adding the additional sway bar. Most important thing I did learn was to take both sway bars off before backing the trailer up. They are easy to bend if you don't. Also, I have the same "cheap" WDH that you do, and really have had no problems with it. Always set the chains on the third link.
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:37 PM   #79
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I've put in a lot of miles towing a comparable size/weight trailer with a 2011 Durango. It's a fantastic platform for trailers in this class, and will treat you very well IF you have the hitch setup right. I also have a full size Silverado, but would take the Durango any day of the week. We do have the Hemi, but the frame & suspension isn't any different. You'll notice the smaller engine on hill climbs. Not in towing stability.

Do you have the 20" wheels? Your tires are probably already fine. The only thing I'd say you might consider on the TV side would be a set of air bags- they are inexpensive and slide into the rear coil springs allowing you to stiffen up the rear when towing and loosen it back up when you aren't.

Because of the softer rear suspension, the Durango seems especially sensitive to poorly set up hitches. You are close to limits, that's not somewhere you want to skimp. We use a ProPride- expensive but worth every penny. If you want to spend less the Anderson has good reviews for moderate tongue weight trailers, and of course the Equalizer as has been recommended. Get a good hitch, visit the scales, and enjoy camping!!
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:22 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by DebMar View Post
okay, took it out for a test drive and didn't get far. Had it up one link more, 4th chain link and it was bobbing so much... then we heard groaning scrunchy sounds... it was the sway bar, thought maybe I had it too tight, loosen it and still kept doing it. When I was almost home I removed it to be sure it was the culprit, and it was... no noise after i removed it. it didn't not make a sound before. Did not go on highway, came back home. So a lot of bobbing and noise grinding noise from sway bar. These pics are the ones where I had only 3rd link up.. when I took it up another link. 4th link (didn't take pic) was up just a little from these bars.
My comment on the picture was, it looks like you have one more link you can pull, and good you did. Have you checked the stamping on those bars. That hitch is offer under several brand names. Our last one was EzLift and the bars were stamped for 1200#. Sold it with the old trailer and our new one looks exactly like your in Curt brand. Our new one is 1400#. It could be a visual think with the picture, but those BARS look a lot thinner than either our 1200s or the new 1400s. Check the stamping on your bars as it is possible they sold you bars that are too light. Otherwise your look up looks great that extra link should leave five down and three hanging. The rear of your TV will be more stable with LTs on it. I know that because I began towing a 25 ft 7500# trailer with a three quarter LOAD RANGE C P-Metrics are really good tires for a Van or Big RV: Bull I was lucky I could stay in the lane with a truck passed. The other thing aside from LT load range D or E rear tires and topping off your tire pressures would be to look at what kind of Sway Bar you had under the back of your Truck. Often the factory anti roll Sway Bar is way too skinny and can be upgraded quite easily. That will go a long was to help stop the rear of the Car pull back and forth.

Good Luck

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