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Old 02-07-2016, 11:59 PM   #1
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Can my 2013 F150 tow this safely

We just bought our first travel trailer and I have a few concerns after bringing it home from the dealership (and then right back for some warranty work). I have a 2013 F150 Supercrew (145" wheelbase) with the 5.0 V8 and 3.31 rear end. Our new trailer is a 2016 Vibe 250BHS and the hitch weight is 611lbs and the UVW is 4800lbs based on what the manufacturer says. The truck seems to do fine however I can definitely hear the engine working a little harder on hills and sometimes it struggled to stay at 65 mph on the highway. Of course the dealer says this is normal but really wanted to hear from some of you guys who have been doing this a lot longer than me and who have more experience. Thanks in advance for your input.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:03 AM   #2
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Here is the sticker from my truck if it helps.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:32 AM   #3
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It is normal to hear the engine working on the hills. Lock out overdrive to help you out. Do you have the tow package with a heavy duty transmission cooler?

Looking at the numbers, you are likely within specs for your truck. You have a payload of 1638 and a likely loaded trailer weight of around 6300 lbs with a likely loaded hitch weight of around 800-950 lbs. Depending on how you load both truck and trailer you might be at max or a little over or under on payload. Only way to truly know is a trip to the scales. You want unloaded truck weight with separate rear and front axle weights (front axle on scale pad 1, trailer axle on scale pad 2). Then get a weight with truck as in 1st weigh but trailer with wdh hooked up and trailer axles on scale pad 3. Then get a third weight of truck and trailer no wdh truck on scale pads 1 and 2, trailer axles on scale pad 3. Make sure both truck and trailer are loaded like you would g or camping with all pets, occupants, gear etc and a full tank of fuel. This takes the guesswork out of it.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:34 AM   #4
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Seem like you are ok but there is a lot of variables when trying to figure out weighs. I made a lot assumptions but you can make them closer to true weights.

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Old 02-08-2016, 01:10 AM   #5
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The max speed your trailer tires are rated for is 65mph...so not being able to keep speed of 65mph is "a ok"
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:33 AM   #6
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We have similar setups. My payload is 150 pounds higher. I have the EB and 157" weelbase. My dry weight on trailer is 5300 pounds. I've been to a scale, and I am 100 pounds over payload when ready for a trip. Family of 4 and dog.

The truck is stable, and I'm comfortable being within a few hundred pounds of the limits. I'm a cautious driver, my interstate speed is 58mph.

That gives a reference point, but it is all guessing without going to a scale loaded up.
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:27 AM   #7
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Just keep it in mind that you need much more room to stop. Give yourself plenty of room from the guy in front of you. Even with the brakes on the trailer, it's going to take much more to come to a complete stop than with no trailer.
Be safe and enjoy!
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:33 AM   #8
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Make sure you have OD off too that way your trans isn't searching for gears all the time.
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:56 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by asquared View Post
It is normal to hear the engine working on the hills. Lock out overdrive to help you out. Do you have the tow package with a heavy duty transmission cooler?

Looking at the numbers, you are likely within specs for your truck. You have a payload of 1638 and a likely loaded trailer weight of around 6300 lbs with a likely loaded hitch weight of around 800-950 lbs. Depending on how you load both truck and trailer you might be at max or a little over or under on payload. Only way to truly know is a trip to the scales. You want unloaded truck weight with separate rear and front axle weights (front axle on scale pad 1, trailer axle on scale pad 2). Then get a weight with truck as in 1st weigh but trailer with wdh hooked up and trailer axles on scale pad 3. Then get a third weight of truck and trailer no wdh truck on scale pads 1 and 2, trailer axles on scale pad 3. Make sure both truck and trailer are loaded like you would g or camping with all pets, occupants, gear etc and a full tank of fuel. This takes the guesswork out of it.
If one always tows with a WD hitch why is weighing the TV without it relevant?
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:05 AM   #10
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If one always tows with a WD hitch why is weighing the TV without it relevant?
I don't have a TT but I would think you need this weight so you know how much weight you have transferred to the front axles on the truck.

OP, if the numbers you are using are from the brochure those are somewhat fictitious.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:19 PM   #11
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I have a f150 3.7 eng and I tow my grey wolf 26 RR and it weight 6000 just fine do you a towing package on your truck
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:22 PM   #12
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That's correct...The third weight lets you see that amount being transferred to the front axle. Helps you make sure you are adjusted the best possible way for optimal weight transfer.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:53 PM   #13
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For some of the more experienced towers on here...Does the 3.31 rear end seem like a high ratio for towing? I've always had 3.92 or 4.11 in my trucks since owning a camper. Could that be what is causing it to "struggle" to stay at 65?
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:21 PM   #14
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I have a 2013, F-150, V6, non ecoboost. Our TT comes in a little under 3800, dry. Tows fine! Make sure you have the tow/haul button in and away you go.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:53 PM   #15
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Having just sold my 2013 F150 EB, I can attest that they do have power and can pull, however, they just don't have the torque to pull at highway speeds up hill with a load near capacity.

It ain't no race car, but if you take your time, it'll get there.

3:31's are definitely more of a highway gear.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:24 PM   #16
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Towing/brakes

We have a 2011 F150 and a TT that weighes in at 5300 lbs. According to our truck numbers we are good for up to 9000 lbs. We do use the tow/haul button which makes sure you get maximum rpm value in a shift. A friend of ours manages a Ford dealership and recommended a factory brake controller as it works better with computer in truck with trailer brakes.... if you are unsure about what your truck can handle ask the local Ford dealer. Happy trails to you!
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:28 PM   #17
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Off the top of my head you're okay. But, check the 2013 Ford Towing Guide online, find your truck and get its towing specs. If you don't have the tow package I strongly recommend you add at least a transmission cooler. I assume you know already you need a weight distributing hitch. Consider also that you should upgrade your truck tires to load range E.
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:34 PM   #18
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If one always tows with a WD hitch why is weighing the TV without it relevant?
The weight without wdh gives you an easy way to calculate true tongue weight and true trailer weight without the wdh messing with the calculations. Remember the wdh transfers weight to the front axle and back to the trailer.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:55 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone for all the feedback. Feeling better about it already. My truck had the towing package already (trailer brake, receiver hitch and 7 way plug). I doubt I have the transmission cooler but I'll have to look at the paperwork from when I bought it. I did get a weight distributing hitch installed and I use the tow/haul mode so I guess that's all I can do other than upgrading the tires and taking it to a weight station. Thanks again for all the input and this site is already proving very valuable for a first timer.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:27 PM   #20
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I just traded in a '13 F150 5.0... We've got a bit bigger trailer - 28BH, about 8000# rolling and loaded, I figure.

Truck handled it fine - knew it was there, but would cruise highway speed fine. Air up the rear tires, and good to go. WDH with sway (equalizer e2) all the time.

Put on about 3500 km last year; so about 2000 miles, I guess?

Having a fairly short wheelbase, compared the the trailer length, gusty cross-winds were a bit white-knuckle sometimes.
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