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Old 09-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #21
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hmm, lots of opinions and thought here. I've always greased the ball and use a ball cover from an rv dealer (since me old tennis ball doesn't fit the 2 5/16 ball). When I went from a pup to a exp tt I tried it dry for awhile. I noticed after long driving the tongue would get hot. My dad said to keep it greased (plenty of pants with small black stripes to prove it)
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Old 09-19-2014, 02:53 PM   #22
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I had TONS of trouble attempting to unhitch my Windjammer, even the dealer had difficulty unhooking the trailer. The only way was to remove the pin from the wd coupler and pull away, pulling the ball assembly out of the receiver. A new trailer coupler was installed and welded in place on Forrest Rivers dime and it fixed the problem. We never determined what the problem was with the original coupler, but the new one works great. Unhooking the trailer is not rocket science but it sure can make you feel dumb when it won't cooperate. The whole incident along with pics is in a previous post. Good luck


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Old 09-19-2014, 03:06 PM   #23
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I had the same issue with mine on my own TV and when we bought our new one, the dealer adjusted the height of the ball and it was fine.

I wouldn't recommend in putting grease on the ball itself. It cause some issues when towing due to there is no "friction" and could cause a lot swaying while towing
The ball should NOT be the source of sway control. You should have other means of controlling sway. Lack of lube on the ball and socket will cause premature wear on both. They are supposed to be lubed.
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:35 PM   #24
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Looks like we have two schools of thought about greasing the hitch ball or not. I used to belong to the "don't grease it" school but then I switched over to the other side. Not saying this is the best choice or not but its my choice.

In the past I had some trouble disconnecting from the hitch ball but since have avoided the ball being too far back in the couple and haven't had any problems since.
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:57 PM   #25
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Most definitely! I always keep my hitch ball well greased. It's your single most important point of contact. Take care of it.
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:39 PM   #26
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Grease those balls gentlemen!
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:43 PM   #27
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Looks like we have two schools of thought about greasing the hitch ball or not. I used to belong to the "don't grease it" school but then I switched over to the other side. Not saying this is the best choice or not but its my choice.

In the past I had some trouble disconnecting from the hitch ball but since have avoided the ball being too far back in the couple and haven't had any problems since.
Your last paragraph is his problem. Chock the front and back, pull up a 1/2" and it clears to unhook. It sounds like it's the back latch hooking the ball. Pulling forward will release it. done that and it works. On my 5th wheel hitch I have to block the back wheels and roll back about a 1/2" then the handle will release. without doing that You will not pull the bar on the hitch, at least on my unit. You need to take the pressure off either way. A little lube on the top of the ball will not hurt anything, but make it turn easier.
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Old 09-20-2014, 07:15 AM   #28
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Thanks for all the ideas, which I will use the next time this happens....I also will lube the ball..

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Old 09-20-2014, 09:25 AM   #29
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I grease everything that moves.
Then, I get grease all over me!

I grease the hitch ball, the friction sway bar balls(4), and the receiver end of the WD bars.

But, DON'T GREASE THE SWAY BAR itself!
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:36 PM   #30
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I "thought" I was having trouble unhitching my trailer. When I raised the tongue jack, I noticed the truck rising. Of course this is to be expected. As the weight of the trailer is removed from the truck, the truck will rise. I needed to keep raising the jack beyond the unloaded height of the truck.
I went through quite a few painful experiences until I finally realized what was happening. Duh!


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Old 10-26-2014, 07:54 PM   #31
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We have been having this problem with our new camper...the trailer does not want to come off the TV ball. We have been using the rocking method...I move the truck back an inch, forward an inch, while Tom works on the hitch until he gets it uncoupled.
Unfortunately we kind of panicked at first and drove around town with the camper hooked up for a day and a half!!!
Seriously though, we have 2 5/16 ball as that is what the dealer told us we needed. I read this thread and see it is written on the hitch?
However, I didn't see that tonight when we were cleaning the camper and it is parked at a friend's lot tonight in preparation for her big wash and wax next weekend.
Someone mentioned that it might be a tight squeeze because of the paint on the new camper hitch? Anyone have this happen before? And yes, we did grease the ball.
Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:09 PM   #32
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My Roo 19 has a 2" ball.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Jennifer9 View Post
We have been having this problem with our new camper...the trailer does not want to come off the TV ball. We have been using the rocking method...I move the truck back an inch, forward an inch, while Tom works on the hitch until he gets it uncoupled.
Unfortunately we kind of panicked at first and drove around town with the camper hooked up for a day and a half!!!
Seriously though, we have 2 5/16 ball as that is what the dealer told us we needed. I read this thread and see it is written on the hitch?
However, I didn't see that tonight when we were cleaning the camper and it is parked at a friend's lot tonight in preparation for her big wash and wax next weekend.
Someone mentioned that it might be a tight squeeze because of the paint on the new camper hitch? Anyone have this happen before? And yes, we did grease the ball.
Thanks!
That is the right size ball. Your locking hasp must not be dropping back far enough when you try to unhook. If you put your hand up in there you will fell the hasp, Lock the handle down and then pick it up to feel it move. I had a trailer that did that I use to block the wheels front and back and then pull forward to clear the hasp. It's not the paint.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:58 AM   #34
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Also "some" are adjustable.
Look underneath and see if there's a nut to loosen.
Be careful to only loosen a little bit.

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Old 10-27-2014, 01:21 PM   #35
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Ive never greased, prolly never will. No issues hookin up or unhookin. To each their own i guess.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:04 PM   #36
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The only "grease" folks should be using is lithium and that's just on the little locking hasp that slides up and down....NOT on the ball and NEVER on the anti-sway bars. (Grease attracts dirt...lithium does not.)

Chalk trailer tires, front and back (and both sides if on any kind of an incline) and then driving a bit back/forwards to facilitate the ball moving where you need it to be.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:35 PM   #37
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We put lithium on the ball. I will have to put some on the locking hasp too. And check out that nut and try loosening it. Will let ya'll know how it works out as I think we may take a short 1 night trip this coming weekend just for practice. 😊
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:49 PM   #38
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We put lithium on the ball. I will have to put some on the locking hasp too. And check out that nut and try loosening it. Will let ya'll know how it works out as I think we may take a short 1 night trip this coming weekend just for practice. 😊
Yes, put grease on the ball .......... and there's hardly ever a need to CHALK your tires.
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