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Old 11-13-2015, 01:30 PM   #51
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Some thoughts on the Equal-i-zer:

1st off, I have never owned an Equal-i-zer, but my daughter and SIL do. The bars seem super heavy duty, and I don't see any bend in them when hooked up. With my Reese, you can visibly see a bend when hooked up.

Attachment 94216

Along with Reese, I think SwayPro, Husky, and others have bars made of spring steel. I am not so sure if Equal-i-zer uses spring steel......to me, it appears not.

So, here is my thinking: If there is little or no give to the Equal-i-zer bars, that puts tremendous stress on the trailer frame and hitch components, before bumps are transferred to the trailer and TV suspensions. With Reese and others, there is some give with the bars, so some of the bumps are absorbed by the spring bars before being transferred to the trailer and TV suspensions.

Does that make sense ??
Yes, you are correct. I had mostly Reese and one EZ-Lift all had spring steel bars. The EZ Lift was replaced for free by the selling dealer as the round shank on the bar dragged on the ground coming in and out of driveways. Never have seen a Reese head break, swap the bars around top to bottom to remove the set in them every couple years.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:33 PM   #52
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Just a little thing about the photo, however- do you not cross your safety chains? I've always believed that is the better way to go.

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Ambit, it is hard to see, but they are crossed. The chains come out behind the coupler about 2" apart, and cross right under the coupler. I wish the chains were mounted further apart. In reality, it is just 1 chain that is bolted in 2 places to the frame.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:43 PM   #53
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Ambit, it is hard to see, but they are crossed.

Thanks for the reply, all the best to you.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:50 PM   #54
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Ambit, it is hard to see, but they are crossed. The chains come out behind the coupler about 2" apart, and cross right under the coupler. I wish the chains were mounted further apart. In reality, it is just 1 chain that is bolted in 2 places to the frame.
I am not happy how FR mounts the chains as well... If they hitch head did let go my chain would do nothing... They are mounted way to close together.
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:25 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
Some thoughts on the Equal-i-zer:

1st off, I have never owned an Equal-i-zer, but my daughter and SIL do. The bars seem super heavy duty, and I don't see any bend in them when hooked up. With my Reese, you can visibly see a bend when hooked up.

Attachment 94216

Along with Reese, I think SwayPro, Husky, and others have bars made of spring steel. I am not so sure if Equal-i-zer uses spring steel......to me, it appears not.

So, here is my thinking: If there is little or no give to the Equal-i-zer bars, that puts tremendous stress on the trailer frame and hitch components, before bumps are transferred to the trailer and TV suspensions. With Reese and others, there is some give with the bars, so some of the bumps are absorbed by the spring bars before being transferred to the trailer and TV suspensions.

Does that make sense ??
Made sense until I saw the pic of the broken Blue Ox. Explain that one.

Not all welds are created equal. And even someone who knows what he's doing and can do it well can mess one up.

I would be interested in knowing of these manufacturers do any kind of non-destructive exams (liquid penetrant, magnetic particle, radiography) on their welds. That's the only way to truly know it's a good weld. Or do they just count on their welder being "certified?"
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:49 AM   #56
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Made sense until I saw the pic of the broken Blue Ox. Explain that one.
The part that broke was not the spring steel part of the bar......the spring bar is inserted into the part that broke.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:59 AM   #57
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Yes, you are correct. I had mostly Reese and one EZ-Lift all had spring steel bars. The EZ Lift was replaced for free by the selling dealer as the round shank on the bar dragged on the ground coming in and out of driveways. Never have seen a Reese head break, swap the bars around top to bottom to remove the set in them every couple years.
B&B how do you Swap the Reese bars top to bottom? They have a Curved Detent area at the end of the Bars! Youroo!!
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:42 PM   #58
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The part that broke was not the spring steel part of the bar......the spring bar is inserted into the part that broke.
I understand that. But the poster is implying (or I'm inferring) that if the bar is visually bending, then you wouldn't have a failed weld.

So we have two examples of bars visibly bending and not visibly bending, and both have had failed welds. So it seems obvious that it's not a matter of which kind of hitch you have, i.e., the bars bending or not bending - it's a matter of a bad weld.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:12 PM   #59
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And I thought my Blue Ox was perfect!

But seriously, it can happen with any one of them. Glad no one was hurt & the damage minimal. Safe travels to all.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:49 PM   #60
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I understand that. But the poster is implying (or I'm inferring) that if the bar is visually bending, then you wouldn't have a failed weld.

So we have two examples of bars visibly bending and not visibly bending, and both have had failed welds. So it seems obvious that it's not a matter of which kind of hitch you have, i.e., the bars bending or not bending - it's a matter of a bad weld.
Understood. What I was trying to imply that maybe WDHs with true spring steel would be a bit less stressful on the hitch parts. I didn't mean to imply that just because you use spring steel, that hitch parts won't break.

My orginal Reese head assembly had a trunnion socket cup that was close to blowing out. I noticed it after getting back from an 800 mile trip.

Click image for larger version

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Reese sent me a new, improved head assembly.
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