Catastrophic Equalizer hitch failure

[twojump36]

I'd need a few more pictures or maybe one of the whole part to tell for sure, but INHO that failure didn't happen just because you were pulling out of a parking lot... that problem started years ago and not from normal usage... the weld didn't break, the weld pulled away the "parent material".... meaning it ripped away from the original steel tubing or plate.
Hitches are put into a bind when we put load on them.... not load as in weight, but leverage as in trying to back up or pull ahead while turning.
My guess is that someone jack-knifed that hitch at one time and it ripped almost to failure years ago.... and it just let go on you this trip.
I'm glad no one was hurt and you got yourself all fixed up and on your way.

[IronCobra]

Ok, so my mechanical engineering brain (Aerospace Engineering to be exact) points this issue to be a direct result of not only improper maintenance, but also metal fatigue and possibly a defect during the manufacturing process.

It appears that the rust permiated very deep throughout the entire weld assembly. It also appears that the set screw was torqued consitantly causing outward pressure from the adjustment washer retaining bolt. (the wear point on the shank in the picture). What probably happened was once the rust started creeping into the weld, it caused a hair line fracture. As you consistanly torque the set screw to keep it tight, you were inadvertently causing the crack to become larger and larger. This eventually fatigued the metal causing a catastrophic failure. Think of it like you were slowly wedging the plates apart each time you torqued the set screw to tighten it.

The indications that this occured is due to the more widespread rust on the lower outer corners while the upper edges appear to be what failed last. This would be consistant with a slow uppward pressure tear originating from the mid-bottom.

I've rotated the picture to give a better view of how the damage looks.

[Surveyor Fifth Wheel]

Just to add in my two cents worth. We've owned an equalizer hitch for well over 15 years now and it has towed everything from my house trailers, to my race car trailers. I feel overwhelming confidence when I'm towing with that hitch. Of course, my other half is also diligent in maintenance and checks everything over from front to back, top to bottom before I'm allowed to leave with a vehicle. Last year , we purchased a ball trailer and used the chain type hitches and load bars to tow it while my husband towed the car trailer with the equalizer. I felt so unsafe towing with the other set up. We've since sold the trailer and returned to 5th wheels and still use the Equalizer to tow the race car. I've not heard of anyone having the same problem that you've had. I'm so thankful that your damage wasn't more severe but I also think that when you see rust around joints on welds, it would behoove us to check them out to ensure that there isn't a deeper problem.

[MOODMAN]

I lost a trailer once, at highway speed. Seems the nut that holds on the ball underneath came loose and the ball came off. Trailer went with it.
The chains held, but I was dragging the trailer on the interstate until I could stop. The trouble is that if you stop with a loose trailer, the trailer is still moving> I had to slow down while watching this trailer in my mirror always threatening to ram me from behind.
Good news was that I got a new nut (at 3 in the morning no less) and was on my way with minimal damage.
Moral of the story...If this happens to you, keep your cool and maintain control. Second advice...check the torque on the ball nut!

[IronCobra]

Third advice...carry an extra ball.... there like $20

[twojump36]

I have that exact same set up for my bumper pull toy hauler and my car hauler. I'm going to agree a little bit with IronCobra...
My hitch system uses the stabilizing arms that slip into the hitch housing and attaches by a couple chains to the trailer tongue. The hitch bolts to the stinger by a couple of high strength bolts and pivots a little bit until the whole thing is adjusted correctly.
When the whole thing is adjusted properly, there is little that can go wrong. But that weld didn't just fail...it was made to fail long ago by improper use or adjustment at sometime in it's life....
I'm glad no one was hurt and no real damage happened...

[uhduh camping]

Can anyone here identify this as an Equalizer hitch? If you do what model is it?+ I am curious I would like to see this first hand, both pieces of the break.

[PenJoe]

We had a similar experience with a MH towing an 18' cabin cruiser. The hitch was a factory installed receiver type with a 2" ball. On returning home on the interstate, we heard metal scraping and thought a tail pipe had come loose. We slowed down gradually and got to the shoulder. On inspection, the hitch had failed and dropped the boat trailer onto the caster jack. We cranked the boat off of the hitch and then lifted the hitch up and it completely broke off the camper. The safety chains were attached the the part that broke off. The gods were with us on that day.

[Ski]

The pictures are both sides of the break. One side shows the shank, and other is the ball mount. The ball mount is cast steel and it is welded to the bracket that attaches to the shank. It is a 10,000 lb Equalizer brand hitch installed by RV Wholesalers when I bought the trailer. It has never been jackknifed or in an accident of any type.

The 3/4" bolts go down thru the ball mount and then thru the bar sockets. When the weld failed, the ball mount dropped down and back and sheared off the bolts. They were laying on the street beneath the trailer.

Equalizer wanted the hitch back from the dealer that replaced it, so I don't have it anymore. Had the accident been worse I would have held on to it. They offer to do anything but replace the head. This picture shows the ball mount with the broken weld on the back.

[yvesm]

This is why I have a Blue Ox Swaypro hitch.

[silverback 35ts]

Forest River like most if not all trailers companies today "do not make " their own frames or chassis, for a trailer most are made from Lippert, and for motorhomes if gas it is ford, if diesel it is freightliner.
So the ones to blame are not FR or Thor or what ever rv company but the chassis builder if you are going to have a issue with frames, this issues was "NOT" a frame issue but a towing product. I have had a few towing products fail while in tow with some heavy trailers, the hitches have come right off the frames (factory hitches) and it was weld and bolt issues, this is why anyone who tows NEEDS to check all points and welds, and bolts and chains and whatever as thing breck.
Happy and Safe Camping

[RSchleder]

Originally Posted by yvesm

This is why I have a Blue Ox Swaypro hitch.

What he said!

[uhduh camping]

Originally Posted by yvesm

This is why I have a Blue Ox Swaypro hitch.

Yup, what he said.

[uhduh camping]

Originally Posted by Ski

The pictures are both sides of the break. One side shows the shank, and other is the ball mount. The ball mount is cast steel and it is welded to the bracket that attaches to the shank. It is a 10,000 lb Equalizer brand hitch installed by RV Wholesalers when I bought the trailer. It has never been jackknifed or in an accident of any type.

The 3/4" bolts go down thru the ball mount and then thru the bar sockets. When the weld failed, the ball mount dropped down and back and sheared off the bolts. They were laying on the street beneath the trailer.

Equalizer wanted the hitch back from the dealer that replaced it, so I don't have it anymore. Had the accident been worse I would have held on to it. They offer to do anything but replace the head. This picture shows the ball mount with the broken weld on the back.

Thanks for posting other pic. I never thought this was damaged. I fully believe this is a welding issue. It is really hard to tell with the rusting but, it looks like it has a lack of fusion to the base metal.
Will you keep the new Equalizer or change brands?

[OldCoot]

From what I see, the welds are still intact, the parent material broke, not the weld. Could have been bad material or rapidly cooled in water rather than air cooling which crystallized the parent material.

[Carrier]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

This could be any manufacturer on any welded part. The welds are only as good as the person actually doing the welding. As a welder I have seen many welds fail, for all sorts of reasons.
There probably was a thin rusty line around the weld that might have been the only tell of a failure. The really bad part is paint normally fails at the weldments due to poor cleaning of weld area and there for rusts.
What can you take from this? If you suspect a problem because you are seeing rust on a welded joint. Clean it really well with a wire wheel to remove rust and loose paint and inspect area carefully. It's a great time to touch up paint if there is no problems. If you find a problem with welds, find a reputable welding shop to do the work. Don't rely on that person who says they have done some welding in the past and can save you money. All welding is not created equal. Just because the weld looks good doesn't mean it's strong. And not all ugly welds are weak (all though most are). There is a real science to welding!

Ha ha you sure are right about getting a bubba weld. I've been a heavy equipment tech for 35 years and couldn't weld my way out of a wet paper bag. Most of my welds are really ugly and usually fall apart.

[SpringerPop]

No surprise Equalizer wanted the failed unit back.

"Evidence of failure? There's never been any evidence of OUR parts failing!"

Pop

[lbrjet]

Have you ever weighed your tongue? You may be over the 1000lb TW limit for your hitch.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[elchilero53]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

From what I see, the welds are still intact, the parent material broke, not the weld. Could have been bad material or rapidly cooled in water rather than air cooling which crystallized the parent material.

I noticed that too - and the deep dimple in the metal the head was bolted to. Looks like mild steel. The weld was stronger than the metal it bonded with. The whole head was defective from the start. The steel looks torn. Someone suggested you might be trying to pull something that exceeds the rating on the hitch, but I don't think that is the problem. It looks like poor-quality steel. We ran into this in the oil patch: poor quality steel casing from China that failed inspection 5 times out of 10. Even the welds sucked.

I have a Husky 1200 lb TW rated hitch. I just went out and looked at it. I'll take a closed look at the welds on it this weekend to make sure.

Glad no one was hurt!!

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by yvesm

This is why I have a Blue Ox Swaypro hitch.

Sounds as if you knew there would be failures of the Equal-I-zer brand hitch, before you purchased your Blue Ox. Or perhaps you had heard of many Equalizer failures years ago before you bought your Blue Ox.

"This" appears to be a manufacturing problem with the welding and/or the particular lot of steel. So it certainly was not that you recognized some design defect, since that's not the problem here.

So, I'm just curious what it is about "This" that caused you to purchase the Blue Ox.