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Old 03-01-2016, 07:23 AM   #51
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For my own protection "Body & Axles-Frame" I use the ramps in the Pic. They are Taller than the "trail Aid" and are also used for "leveling & chock the tires"! Even though We have "Roadside Assistance" they still try to jack where they "Should NOT" when they arrive! Very Few times have I seen people with a flat along a road that had "Solid ground" to place a Jack on! I also have a Wood ramp i loan to friends when they are going to a tire shop to replace thier tires with "Maxxis" the tire guy's love using the Ramp's! Good luck with using a Bottle jack along the Highway in the Rain/Snow with Big Rigs going by at 80MPH and the Wind blowing at 40! Youroo!! We have "Torsion Axles"
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:48 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern View Post
Carrier - After 3 1/2 years of service, I switched my OEM Trail Express C tires to Goodyear Marathon D's last season. Very happy with them so far.
It's a toss up between Carlilse and Good Year but I think Carlisle will be it.
Thanks
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:18 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tragusa3 View Post
I just put a Trailer Aid in my cart on Amazon.

I was thinking, for those that still need a tad more height, couldn't you unhook from the truck and then use the tongue jack to either raise or lower the front so that the trailer pivots with the Trailer Aid being the fulcrum?

Seems like that could buy you several inches more clearance.
It's a good thought, but for multiple concerns:
* It takes extra time to disconnect/reconnect.
* The TV adds stability to the trailer while doing a change.
* Unless the trailer is on flat solid ground, wind, soft ground, or incline could cause the TT to pivot off the jack.
* If the TT pivoted, it could put a corner out into the traffic lane.
* Any shifting could complicate the tire change and it may also be very difficult to reconnect.

I would not even trust wheel chocks in this situation. Most frequently, you will be dealing with some sort of grade on the shoulder and soft ground on at least one side.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:46 AM   #54
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I made an adaptor for my bottle jack which I carry in the trailer and jack between the axles on the suspension framework. I also have a homemade wooden "Trailer Aid" I carry on the back bumper. When I'm home, I have an air/hyd jack and adaptor I use.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:15 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray and Ann View Post
I assume you meant between tires, not axles. 14" between axles would mean overlapping tires (not possible) unless the tires were less than 14" in diameter! and 3 to 5" would mean teeny tiny tires.
Busted you got me. Yes that's roughly 14" or so between wheels
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:54 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe View Post
It's a good thought, but for multiple concerns:
* It takes extra time to disconnect/reconnect.
* The TV adds stability to the trailer while doing a change.
* Unless the trailer is on flat solid ground, wind, soft ground, or incline could cause the TT to pivot off the jack.
* If the TT pivoted, it could put a corner out into the traffic lane.
* Any shifting could complicate the tire change and it may also be very difficult to reconnect.

I would not even trust wheel chocks in this situation. Most frequently, you will be dealing with some sort of grade on the shoulder and soft ground on at least one side.
Points taken. Although, if the flat is on the back axle, you can lift the front quite a ways without unhitching from the truck. It could be an easy way to gain a few inches in that situation.

I didn't order the Trailer Aid, as I like the pictures showing the two ramps. I've got a pair that I use for oil changes, etc. I'm going to bring those along on the next few trips and see what I think.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:24 PM   #57
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OldCoot needs to make those bottle jack adaptors in his garage and sell them to people on this site! That's very nice!
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:50 PM   #58
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use Lynx blocks

I had a flat tire on my Crusader 322RES and use my Lynx blocks to build a ramp to lift up the trailer. The "official" method suggested by Prime Time is to lift with a jack against the trailer frame and definitely not against the axle itself. I used six levels of Lynx blocks and actually needed one more to reinstall the repaired tire. The wedge block on the right was off when I backed the trailer onto the ramp. I then installed that wedge as a safety in case the trailer wanted to move.
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:21 PM   #59
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I have the Trailer Aid ramp also, but on pavement it tends to scoot when I tried to drive up on it. The bolts on the bottom of mine are slick on asphalt or concrete pavement. Youroo and OC, how do you keep your wood ramps from scooting instead of letting the wheel run up on it? I also note that flats do not seem to occur where there is flat hard ground.

I like Old Coots bottle jack extension, and may make a copy but I think I will have a "U" shaped channel that fits the beam welded to the top so it will not slip off of the axle frame. I have torsion suspension also, and yes, the tire guys and road side assistance guys try to jack up the trailer using the axle tubes if you are not standing over them. I had one kid at the tire place try to move the jack under the torsion tubes after I walked away. Luckily I walked back just as he started to jack under them and told him to get the $%^& away from my trailer and go get the manager. The manager finished the job using the beam to raise the trailer. Jeez...
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:25 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by D_B Travelers View Post
I have the Trailer Aid ramp also, but on pavement it tends to scoot when I tried to drive up on it. The bolts on the bottom of mine are slick on asphalt or concrete pavement. Youroo and OC, how do you keep your wood ramps from scooting instead of letting the wheel run up on it?...
My wooden one does not scoot on any surface. Just lucky I guess.
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