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Old 07-13-2019, 02:45 PM   #1
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Changing hitch pin on 5th wheel

Have a Curt q20 slider hitch and when the slide was put to maneuver position the hitch hit the tailgate. Not by much. How hard is it to change out the hitch on the trailer for something else so as to not hit the tailgate. I know we can't move the hitch in the truck bed. Or would it be better to put a different tailgate on the truck. The red mark is where on the hitch head it hits the tailgate. Truck has the 6'6" bed.
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:34 PM   #2
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I put a V tailgate on my prior short bed truck. It was a great investment and made hooking up much easier.
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Old 07-13-2019, 05:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 5er_tom View Post
I put a V tailgate on my prior short bed truck. It was a great investment and made hooking up much easier.
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We are looking into that also. Which ever is cheaper. LOL
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:43 PM   #4
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That connection point is welded to the frame of the RV. If it were me, I would not consider changing it out or altering it in any way. The V style tailgate would be my choice.

One other option would be to add a limiting strap to the tailgate so that when you slide the hitch back the tailgate is only partially let down which would provide you the clearance you need. Imagine a shorter version of the cables that hold your tailgate horizontal when you let it down. If they were 1/2 the length the tailgate would be down enough to clear the head but not long enough to allow the tailgate to hit the 5th wheel.

Just a thought,
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Old 07-15-2019, 12:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5er_tom View Post
I put a V tailgate on my prior short bed truck. It was a great investment and made hooking up much easier.
Attachment 209765
A V tailgate and never have to worry about the pin box hitting again, unless you are going out at an angle then you would need to watch. I had one one 2 trucks until my newest one came with a camera built in. I didn't want to lose the back up camera so I need to watch the tailgate now, such a pain, came close once but it's just almost inevitable that it will get hit someday.
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Old 07-15-2019, 12:43 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by tom39 View Post
That connection point is welded to the frame of the RV. If it were me, I would not consider changing it out or altering it in any way. The V style tailgate would be my choice.

One other option would be to add a limiting strap to the tailgate so that when you slide the hitch back the tailgate is only partially let down which would provide you the clearance you need. Imagine a shorter version of the cables that hold your tailgate horizontal when you let it down. If they were 1/2 the length the tailgate would be down enough to clear the head but not long enough to allow the tailgate to hit the 5th wheel.

Just a thought,
Tom
Tom,
That's a very good suggestion, but what to use for a limiting strap? My newest rv a Jayco Eagle HT is shorter from the pin box to the front of the trailer. I have to be almost straight on when backing or the corners of the truck tailgate will hit the rv. Most time I have the wife hold the tailgate as I approach the rv and make the pin box hook up. But the strap idea is a good one, i'll have to think about that and look to see what might be available.
Thanks for the tip.
Barry
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:01 PM   #7
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I'm curious as to how much bed rail clearance you had.



FWIW, I have a short bed TV (that is slightly longer than yours) and use an Andersen Hitch and I have plenty of cab clearance even at 90 degrees. BUT after seeing the trailer wheels twisted around when "jacking" the RV, I just don't do that.

Is it possible to simply avoid the extreme angles between your RV and TV and negate the need to unlock your slider?
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by floridela View Post
Tom,
That's a very good suggestion, but what to use for a limiting strap? My newest rv a Jayco Eagle HT is shorter from the pin box to the front of the trailer. I have to be almost straight on when backing or the corners of the truck tailgate will hit the rv. Most time I have the wife hold the tailgate as I approach the rv and make the pin box hook up. But the strap idea is a good one, i'll have to think about that and look to see what might be available.
Thanks for the tip.
Barry
Give me until this evening and I am sure I can come up with something.
If you can get me a measurement of how far you want your tailgate to fall back, that would be great.


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Old 07-15-2019, 01:35 PM   #9
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A V-gate is a good suggestion.

I thought I read where the travel on some of the sliders can be adjusted?
Maybe not yours?

I also have to ask from the 2nd photo... did you hit the bottom corner of your 5th wheel on something too?
It looks smashed/damaged?

I'll be quite honest... I've had a manual slider hitch for 20+ years in several trucks and 4 different 5th wheels and have never been in a position to have had to slide it. All short beds. (6.5' & 6.75') I just never had to turn that sharp and I've been in some tight spots.
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Old 07-15-2019, 02:14 PM   #10
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I have read on other forums where guys that have this problem took an angle grinder and ground the bottom corner of the pin box off. Just an idea.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tom39 View Post
Give me until this evening and I am sure I can come up with something.
If you can get me a measurement of how far you want your tailgate to fall back, that would be great.


Tom
Got me thinking, so I went out and looked at my F350 and the cable that holds the tailgate. I was able to bend the cable under the top pin and loop the cable over the pin. That in effect would have been the answer but I'm afraid it would kink the cable in a short time. So, I'm looking at ways to put a screw eye into one of the screws on the tailgate and then hook a cable to a hole or screw eye mount near the truck bed latch for the gate. If the tailgate was down roughly 45 degrees it would be about a 22 inch or so end to end of a cable with hooks. Seems like it's do able, need to check out Home Depot soon.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnNJean View Post
I'm curious as to how much bed rail clearance you had.



FWIW, I have a short bed TV (that is slightly longer than yours) and use an Andersen Hitch and I have plenty of cab clearance even at 90 degrees. BUT after seeing the trailer wheels twisted around when "jacking" the RV, I just don't do that.

Is it possible to simply avoid the extreme angles between your RV and TV and negate the need to unlock your slider?
We have rail clearance. Problem was hitch head was so big. Needed about 1 inch more length for it. Wish the hitch was 1 inch closer to truck cab. Would of been fine then. DH wants to use the slider to help back in to spots.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:32 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by tom39 View Post
That connection point is welded to the frame of the RV. If it were me, I would not consider changing it out or altering it in any way. The V style tailgate would be my choice.

One other option would be to add a limiting strap to the tailgate so that when you slide the hitch back the tailgate is only partially let down which would provide you the clearance you need. Imagine a shorter version of the cables that hold your tailgate horizontal when you let it down. If they were 1/2 the length the tailgate would be down enough to clear the head but not long enough to allow the tailgate to hit the 5th wheel.

Just a thought,
Tom
if your truck has a cable to hold the tail gate just loop the cable over the stud that locks the gate in the closed position , this will leave the gate up but not closed.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
A V-gate is a good suggestion.

I thought I read where the travel on some of the sliders can be adjusted?
Maybe not yours?

I also have to ask from the 2nd photo... did you hit the bottom corner of your 5th wheel on something too?
It looks smashed/damaged?

I'll be quite honest... I've had a manual slider hitch for 20+ years in several trucks and 4 different 5th wheels and have never been in a position to have had to slide it. All short beds. (6.5' & 6.75') I just never had to turn that sharp and I've been in some tight spots.
Travel adjustment would of been great if available. Still would of hit the tailgate the first time anyway.

Yes, trailer is damaged from jackknifed into truck cab. Happened about 2 minutes after trying the slide. Maybe would of not hit if the slide worked. DH had backed the FW only once before. Hard (expensive) learning curve.
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Old 07-15-2019, 10:46 PM   #15
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Check out the Sidewinder kingpin hitch, and replace your truck hitch with a regular (cheap) standard hitch. No more worries about hitting anything.
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Old 07-16-2019, 06:28 AM   #16
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Regarding rail clearance, would raising the hitch up one additional notch address the problem without causing any new problems? It appears that you hit it at the very top of the gate, so if you can lift the contact point of the pin box just a bit, it might go over the tail gate next time.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:31 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Skip12 View Post
Regarding rail clearance, would raising the hitch up one additional notch address the problem without causing any new problems? It appears that you hit it at the very top of the gate, so if you can lift the contact point of the pin box just a bit, it might go over the tail gate next time.
I think we are a bit nose high already. Thanks for the thought.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bill and Margo View Post
Have a Curt q20 slider hitch and when the slide was put to maneuver position the hitch hit the tailgate. Not by much. How hard is it to change out the hitch on the trailer for something else so as to not hit the tailgate. I know we can't move the hitch in the truck bed. Or would it be better to put a different tailgate on the truck. The red mark is where on the hitch head it hits the tailgate. Truck has the 6'6" bed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridela View Post
Tom,
That's a very good suggestion, but what to use for a limiting strap? My newest rv a Jayco Eagle HT is shorter from the pin box to the front of the trailer. I have to be almost straight on when backing or the corners of the truck tailgate will hit the rv. Most time I have the wife hold the tailgate as I approach the rv and make the pin box hook up. But the strap idea is a good one, i'll have to think about that and look to see what might be available.
Thanks for the tip.
Barry
Ok so here is what I was able to come up with. I was trying to make something that would be little to no cost, easy to install and remove and would not take up any space or have to be left in place.

Total cost - $1.36 + a piece of cable and a small piece of round stock I had lying around.

Basically you insert the round stock along side the tailgate latch, inserting the long end (top of gate) into the hole for the latch, then insert the short end. Center the cable in the middle of the latch hole and then raise the gate and loop the other end of the cable around the latch pin bolted into the bed of the truck.

I tried installing it a few times and it took about 6-sec to put in place.

Hope it helps,
Tom
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:22 AM   #19
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Ok so here is what I was able to come up with. I was trying to make something that would be little to no cost, easy to install and remove and would not take up any space or have to be left in place.

Total cost - $1.36 + a piece of cable and a small piece of round stock I had lying around.

Basically you insert the round stock along side the tailgate latch, inserting the long end (top of gate) into the hole for the latch, then insert the short end. Center the cable in the middle of the latch hole and then raise the gate and loop the other end of the cable around the latch pin bolted into the bed of the truck.

I tried installing it a few times and it took about 6-sec to put in place.

Hope it helps,
Tom
I think we are going with this. A LOT cheaper and easier. Only need maybe 2 inches.
Just got called the trailer is fixed. Now waiting on truck. Will let everyone know how it goes. Many thanks to everyone that replied.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:25 PM   #20
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I think we are going with this. A LOT cheaper and easier. Only need maybe 2 inches.
Just got called the trailer is fixed. Now waiting on truck. Will let everyone know how it goes. Many thanks to everyone that replied.
If the one I made will work for you, you are more than welcome to just have it. I have absolutely no need for it and will probably toss it in a drawer only to be thrown out at some point. I only made it to see if I could.

Anyway, if it will work for you, PM me your address and I will mail it out one day this week.

Tom
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