Check my math on towing wieght...please

[CollinP]

Okay all you towing experts out there please check out my figures and fire away if I am wrong.

I am considering a TT that weighs ~6200 lbs

2014 Ram 1500
Curb weight 5500 per Ram
GVWR 6950lbs per Ram
Est. load in truck 700lbs 3 people plus some stuff
Tongue weight 793lbs
Est GVW 6993 (curb weight+load+tongue weight)
CGVWR 13,500lbs per Ram
Remaining towing capacity as calculated below 6507lbs
13500 (CGVWR) -6993 (GVW)=6507

I have learned how misleading tow ratings are my tow rating is 7800lbs. (unless my math is wrong)

So, in the end by the time I put stuff in the camper I will probably be overweight by 300-400lbs

[ChooChooMan74]

I won't trust that curb weight from Ram. But, your math looks pretty good. I am looking into the Ram 1500 Diesel myself. I know that there is a good chance that I will be slightly over when I upgrade to a newer HTT.

[CollinP]

Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74

I won't trust that curb weight from Ram. But, your math looks pretty good. I am looking into the Ram 1500 Diesel myself. I know that there is a good chance that I will be slightly over when I upgrade to a newer HTT.

I have the same feeling about the curb weight just haven't made it to the scales yet.

[wbdavey]

I have a 2014 Ram Quad Cab Laramie 4X4 Eco diesel and tow a Rockwood 2604 WS that weighs approximately 6500 pounds loaded for travel. The truck handles it beautifully even though my payload is only 1200 pounds. The Equil-I-Zer weight distributing hitch works very well and the engine/transmission never seems to be working hard. I would suggest getting the 3.92 gears. FYI, I'm averaging 14.5 mpg towing.

[Kaadk]

Yep, sounds about right with a 1/2 ton. My 2010 Ram only has a CCC (Payload) of 1150 lbs. Total weight of Passengers, dogs, car seats, etc... when I bring the whole family is about 700 lbs. This doesn't leave me a lot of room for TW/stuff in bed of truck. However, when it's just me (~235-240 lbs) I've got plenty of payload to spare.

There's all schools of thought on here when it comes to weight limits. Some people will tell you that as long as you can move it you're fine. Others will tell you that if you even go 1 pound over the limit you're going to have issues. I personally follow the "Do what you feel like" train of thought. Only you can decide if you want to drive a setup like that. Some people do, some people don't, it's all up to them.

What I do advise however, is to be fully aware of your setup. If you're over your limits, know that you're over limits. Be aware what that means. Worse gas milage, more wear and tear, harder on the vehicle's brakes (though the trailer's brakes should be fine), etc... After that, the choice is yours.

BTW, regarding published tow ratings. They're often nothing more than GCVWR - Curb weight - 150 lb driver. So, 13500 - 5500 - 150 = 7850.

[davel1971]

Originally Posted by CollinP

I have learned how misleading tow ratings are my tow rating is 7800lbs. (unless my math is wrong)

I don't understand this part. Your tow rating is easy to find from many different sources based on the build and configuration of your truck. How was there math involved?

[CollinP]

Originally Posted by wbdavey

I have a 2014 Ram Quad Cab Laramie 4X4 Eco diesel and tow a Rockwood 2604 WS that weighs approximately 6500 pounds loaded for travel. The truck handles it beautifully even though my payload is only 1200 pounds. The Equil-I-Zer weight distributing hitch works very well and the engine/transmission never seems to be working hard. I would suggest getting the 3.92 gears. FYI, I'm averaging 14.5 mpg towing.

Thanks for the info I have been beating the bushes for someone who is towing basically what I am considering. My truck is the crew cab Laramie 2wd with 3.55 gears. I am getting similar MPG with my current TT empty weight 4700lbs. I have an EAZ lift hitch and have installed timberen helper springs in the rear of my truck...it was kind of bouncy before I added the helpers. I am looking at the Rockwood 2905ss. Have you towed through any mountains?

[CollinP]

Originally Posted by davel1971

I don't understand this part. Your tow rating is easy to find from many different sources based on the build and configuration of your truck. How was there math involved?

What I mean is that a VERY small percentage of people will actually be able to tow a trailer that is at the max tow rating of the vehicle.

[davel1971]

Originally Posted by CollinP

What I mean is that a VERY small percentage of people will actually be able to tow a trailer that is at the max tow rating of the vehicle.

that is very true, and good that you are building in some cushion. Those who tow near, at, or slightly over when towing with gas aren't towing as good as they think they are. I'm about 5,500 lbs under my diesel trucks rating of 16,800, but sure like the effortless towing.

[TURBS]

Normally you run out of cargo carrying capacity long before any other weight.

Turbs

[davel1971]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Normally you run out of cargo carrying capacity long before any other weight.

Turbs

this is probably true with at least 95% of people towing campers. Way more likely to be over payload

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by davel1971

this is probably true with at least 95% of people towing campers. Way more likely to be over payload

I'm at or just over my ccc but all my other weights are within limits

Turbs

[campingwilliamsons]

There is yellow door sticker that will tell you your exact curb weight as it left the factory assuming a fuel tank of fuel. Everything added by the dealer or yourself is not included.

Based on your numbers, I expect you will exceed payload/CCC on the truck once truely loaded up (but just barely), and you will be under GVWR (again just barely) with the trailer in question.

[asquared]

Are the numbers you list for the trailer dry trailer weight and dry tongue weight? If so you can go ahead and increase the trailer weight by a good 1000-1500 lbs and figure your loaded tongue weight to be 13-15% of that new number. The dry/unloaded tongue weight and dry tt weight really tell you nothing. Either allot the average 1000-1500 lbs of fear people tend to add or calculate using the tt gvwr.

For your truck, best to go weigh it with family, pets, gear etc in it. The curb weight listed is rarely a true weight once options etc are included. Weigh your truck, take the scaled weight and subtract it from the gcwr to get your adjusted towing capacity. Take the scaled weight and subtract it from your TV gvwr to get your available payload. Subtract your scaled rear axle weight from the max RAWR to see how much room you have left on your axle. Your loaded tt weight and loaded tongue weight need to be within all of these numbers.

If you can't get to a scale you can subtract your stated 700 lbs of passenger/gear weight from the payload on the tire loading sticker. This is listed inside the drivers door and says "occupants and cargo not to exceed x lbs." Your loaded tongue weight needs to be less than this.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Normally you run out of cargo carrying capacity long before any other weight.

Turbs

Agreed, the blue hauler is the only thing in the truck bed on my truck.

[CollinP]

Originally Posted by asquared

Are the numbers you list for the trailer dry trailer weight and dry tongue weight? If so you can go ahead and increase the trailer weight by a good 1000-1500 lbs and figure your loaded tongue weight to be 13-15% of that new number. The dry/unloaded tongue weight and dry tt weight really tell you nothing. Either allot the average 1000-1500 lbs of fear people tend to add or calculate using the tt gvwr.

For your truck, best to go weigh it with family, pets, gear etc in it. The curb weight listed is rarely a true weight once options etc are included. Weigh your truck, take the scaled weight and subtract it from the gcwr to get your adjusted towing capacity. Take the scaled weight and subtract it from your TV gvwr to get your available payload. Subtract your scaled rear axle weight from the max RAWR to see how much room you have left on your axle. Your loaded tt weight and loaded tongue weight need to be within all of these numbers.

If you can't get to a scale you can subtract your stated 700 lbs of passenger/gear weight from the payload on the tire loading sticker. This is listed inside the drivers door and says "occupants and cargo not to exceed x lbs." Your loaded tongue weight needs to be less than this.

The tt weight is based upon the yellow stcker weight of a similar camper of the same model at the dealership. The tongue weight is the dry brochure weight.

[AquaMan]

Don't forget, that your truck also accounts for 150lbs for the driver. So if you are counting yourself in that 700lb figure, you can subtract 150lbs from it.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by CollinP

The tt weight is based upon the yellow stcker weight of a similar camper of the same model at the dealership. The tongue weight is the dry brochure weight.

Huh?

Turbs

[asquared]

Originally Posted by CollinP

The tt weight is based upon the yellow stcker weight of a similar camper of the same model at the dealership. The tongue weight is the dry brochure weight.

Those are still dry weights. The difference is the yellow sticker includes propane and batteries whereas brochure doesn't. The brochure tongue weight will be useless to you. The yellow sticker of a different trailer will still be different than yours as options affect that weight. You will still need to add that 1000-1500 lbs of gear to your tt yellow sticker weight as clothing, dishes, chairs, toiletries, tools etc all add up really quickly.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by asquared

Those are still dry weights. The difference is the yellow sticker includes propane and batteries whereas brochure doesn't. The brochure tongue weight will be useless to you. The yellow sticker of a different trailer will still be different than yours as options affect that weight. You will still need to add that 1000-1500 lbs of gear to your tt yellow sticker weight as clothing, dishes, chairs, toiletries, tools etc all add up really quickly.

X2

Yellow sticker dry weight is that weight til you take it home then afterwards will always weigh more. It is safer to assume weights using gross weight of the trailer for towing purposes before buying, it will be much closer to actual. To me the empty (dry) weight of the trailer is next to useless. Advertised weights are worse. The actual weight on the scales is best, after loading for use.

My case is very different but for the point my trailer yellow sticker dry weight is 9600 lbs. (It was advertised at 9200 lbs in brochure) Loaded on the scales it is 13,800 lbs. ready for camping ...... Max capacity of our camper is 14,500 lbs. If I went by dry weight I could be in serious trouble.