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Old 05-28-2013, 11:49 AM   #11
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The Equalizer brackets can go from 27-32 inches. If it exceeds that, might need to look at a different system. I do not know what the Reese system requires. The only other option is to raise or move the propane bracket. If it is welded, you will need a welder to do it for you.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:01 PM   #12
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Actually have new issue with these WD hitches and that is how the clamps for the bars will fasten to my trailer tongue. See the attached photo for how my LP tanks are mounted to the a frame.
Tanks can slide back to where the batteries are and move the batteries to where the tanks are now. Might require some modification and getting some angle iron, but not a real difficult mod.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:20 PM   #13
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Looking at the picture, it almost looks like the bracket holding the tanks is welded to the frame. I am curious if this is true.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #14
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Even if you don't get a WDH, get a sway controller. It's a must with any trailer in my opinion.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:43 PM   #15
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Well, it is 35-36" to get past the tank mount. It is welded to the frame. On etrailer I did see some special plates that replace the regular clamps on the Reese hitches. These are bolted through the frame. Might be easier than moving the tank mount etc. Have to be careful putting bolts through on the left side because of all the wires running down that side. I have that power lift on the front which is why their are quite a few wires
Maybe best bet is to check with few local RV places to see what they can do. Problem most are not as close as I would like. Probably have to tow it to them with regular hitch. Oh well I have a vacation coming up where I am not using the RV. Will deal with it when I get back. Just want to get it right. Thanks again for all the advice. You all have given me several things to consider.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:15 PM   #16
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Well, it is 35-36" to get past the tank mount. It is welded to the frame. On etrailer I did see some special plates that replace the regular clamps on the Reese hitches. These are bolted through the frame. Might be easier than moving the tank mount etc. Have to be careful putting bolts through on the left side because of all the wires running down that side. I have that power lift on the front which is why their are quite a few wires
Maybe best bet is to check with few local RV places to see what they can do. Problem most are not as close as I would like. Probably have to tow it to them with regular hitch. Oh well I have a vacation coming up where I am not using the RV. Will deal with it when I get back. Just want to get it right. Thanks again for all the advice. You all have given me several things to consider.
Good luck. Seems like you have a good plan.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:34 AM   #17
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The only real "lightduty" WDH for popups are the mini-350, and the Single-Bar 400. I used the Single-Bar 400 for my 2000 Coleman Mesa. But that was 3000 lbs loaded, and 375 lbs loaded TW.

At 3135 empty/shipped, and 4573GVWR, I don't see you saying under 400 lbs TW.

So yeah, a 600 lbs Equil-i-zer would be perfect.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:55 PM   #18
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So yeah, a 600 lbs Equil-i-zer would be perfect.
i agree. if you had a more capable tow vehicle, i'd say that you might want a bigger WDH, in case you upgraded to something bigger in the future.
but the 600 Equalizer would be fine since you couldn't tow anything bigger with the Traverse.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:50 PM   #19
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As stated, make sure your Traverse can handle a WDH. IIRC when the wife went to look at an Acadia the book said you could NOT use one.

We used to have a 27sc and it is pretty easy to affect tongue weight with loading on these trailers. Any idea what your actual tongue weight is now? Might be worthwhile to check that out on a CAT scale before you proceed too much further.
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