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Old 07-31-2014, 06:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by keith_h View Post
Many large employers have affiliate programs available for their employees and retirees with the US auto makers. It's worth a check to see if you are eligible. While they aren't always the best deal it does give you a reference for starting price negotiations.
Some retired Federal Employee organizations and Credit Unions have them also.

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Old 07-31-2014, 10:45 PM   #22
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I just added another $1,800- to mine... bought a topper...

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Old 07-31-2014, 10:59 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by goduc View Post
It is nuts to pay $40,000 for a vehicle. But what do you do if you need one for towing or some other job specific duty?
I hear ya on the dings. Every new truck I've bought since 1994 has gotten a ding in the 1st week or two. Only one that didn't was a 2010 F150 I bought. Had it 2.5 years and it was is perfect condition. Traded it in on my current 12 Ram 2500 and 5 days latter got caught in a freakish hail storm. Now I have about 6-7 pea size dents on the hood and roof. Busted out both vents on top of the TT we had. I guess you could say it's broken in now.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:02 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by goduc View Post
I bought my 12 Ram 2500 4x4 CTD brand new for $10,000 off MSRP. I paid $36,000 for it. It's not a top line truck but I don't need all that bling just to haul some stuff for camping or house work. IMO used cars and trucks are so expensive because they cost so much new. It's a fine line between buying a 2-3 yr old vehicle as opposed to buying one new with big discounts. I'd much rather spend a few 1K more for a new vehicle with zero miles and full warranty. Buyers need to do their home work.

My '12 Tundra was $30K, new. Toyota uses the same gear ratio and drivetrain (4:30) regardless of bling. So my basic $30K truck will pull just like a $50K Tundra with leather, back up camera, and other goodies. I didn't want all the fancy stuff, heck we got that on my wife's CRV for much less. I personally don't think it's worth it dollar wise on a truck.

Although I still got bucket seats and console shifter, climate control, blue tooth, and even the chrome package. And much more reliable than my old truck.

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Old 08-01-2014, 07:24 AM   #25
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Yeah. I am looking to keep it basic. The base Tahoe is the LS trim package. This has the cloth seats. The next trim package is the LT with leather seats and a bit more. The LT is the middle package and is most common. Even looking at the used ones it is hard to find the base LS model. That being said, the LS is still in the $50K range for starting price. If I negotiate a 20% off price, we are still talking $40K. The top trim package - LTZ starts close to $65K!!!!
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:55 AM   #26
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I've bought used, 2-3 yr old, for most my cars the past 25 years. But the last 'round' of car purchases new was the better deal.
Internet pricing can get you smokin' deals - our TV stickered at 41,200 and using got $30,000 price on it. New. No haggles, no surprises, exactly what we wanted. Can't touch a used one for that (we looked).
Second is used cars are holding their value. very well.
interest rates are low too - bought a subaru in april and got 1.23% for 5 years, no special financing offered, and used the internet to get a price to bring the dealer down even more (he matched the price of another dealer).

The subaru was replacing a used one I bought 2 years ago (not a great one...). SAME payment, just added 2 5 instead of 3..on a new car instead of a 4 year old 65k mile one. No brainer really. Keep the old car and pay it off about the time it hits 8 years old and 100k or pay off a new one at 60k and 5 years old and keep it another 4+ years payment free.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:05 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by vinmaker View Post
I need to replace my 2004 Chevy Trailblazer soon as I only like to keep my cars till they are 10 yrs old.

I own a High Wall pop up and need something to tow 5,000 lbs.

The wife likes the Chevy Tahoe so I started looking around at those and OMG are the prices high. I never knew they got so expensive. And they hold their value like crazy. These things only drop about 3K each year which is nothing for an auto. A 2011 is gonna run me about 30K for the base trimmed unit. That is close to a $700/month car pmt.
Why just 10 years ?? If the Trailblazer is still mechanically sound and it pulls the High Wall just fine, why not keep the Trailblazer for another 10 years ?? Take the $700 car payment and put just 1/2 of that away each month and you will have $42,000 towards your next purchase for a 2024 model. Of course, vehicles will be priced higher then, but you have fantastic down payment on a new vehicle.

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Old 08-01-2014, 11:30 AM   #28
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Depends where you live...I"m in pennsylvania and rust will get you around 10 years. And winter, hills, potholes take their tolls on cars, by 10 years reliability starts to decline. Cheaper to fix than payments, but it's inconvenient to have something go wrong ever 6 to 8 weeks.
Last 14 months: a/c fan, plug coil, rad support failed ($600), transmission died (2300), temp sensor, some odd elec anomoly that would kill the battery..sometimes..when it was below freezing (never fixed), rear suspension member/diff cover (rust), battery, a/c (part of rad support), ball joint, front calipers (and brakes, but they're a wear item), ABS system didn't work (bought it that way, never bothered to fix it).

Been there done that many times in the past 20 years..10 years is about it. Some vehicles do better than others, but it seems to be luck rather than brand or care. 14 years is pushing it.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:36 AM   #29
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That was our issue, the wife's 2008 Trailblazer had 120,000 on it and would probably go another 100,000 but between our terrible winters in PA and the awesome roads it was not doing as well as I wanted. Still can't complain thought. Just put struts on a few thousand ago and no real major issues. Just wanted to get out as a tranny issue was forming.

We just bought a Traverse, but even with the max tow only pulls 5,000. Some of the motivation was also to make sure we never had two car payments at the same time. Tahoes were ridiculous and at least for us not needed. I tow with my truck so no need for two TV's.

It might have been a bit early to replace but by the time my truck needs a new home (2010 with 90,000) her's will be paid off. So more financial planning than need.

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Old 08-01-2014, 11:58 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
SUVs are all over priced. I bought a new 1 ton crew cab diesel Chevy last year for $12,000 less than what a Tahoe costs and I can tow more than double.
I agree. I wanted a 2500 Suburban but that started at 60k!! We ended buying the 2500 Savana for HALF that and it pulls more, not to mention the kids have a ton more space!


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