Coupler lock hard to disengage

[rvdoctor]

Most couplers have an adjustment nut (most are 3/4") on the underside of coupler. Can be seen if you look upwards from the bottom into the coupler. Just loosen the nut a bit until until you are satisfied it works okay.

[ttocsmi]

Originally Posted by kittlecat

I am struggling with the exact same issue myself. I have owned numerous other campers and horse trailers and never had the problem I am experiencing with my current TT. It seems that my troubles started after I had leaf springs added to my tow vehicle. I have taken my TT to the RV dealer several times (where they cannot get it to act up), the dealer adjusted the number of washers in the tilt of the hitch, I use wheel chocks with the TT when it is parked, I keep the ball and hitch well greased and I've tried backing up my tow vehicle to relieve the pressure as well as putting the tow vehicle in neutral (on flat ground). Nothing works. It has become impossible for me to unhitch my TT by myself. My brother-in-law finally had to get a hydraulic jack out after laying under my hitch where he could see whatever was hanging up the TT from releasing off the back of my tow vehicle. This was at the end of the year when my tow vehicle needed to be put up for the winter. My problem has become so bad I've developed fear of even hitching my TT to my tow vehicle anymore as I know I cannot unhitch by myself.

I purchased an Equalizer WDH (before this problem had gotten as bad as it has) and we will be installing it in the next 2-4 weeks (spring is finally thinking about visiting us in MI). I am remaining hopefully optimistic that switching out the WDH will help solve my problem. Otherwise, I have no idea what I will do since I frequently camp alone, if I cannot unhitch my TT from my tow vehicle on my own. And yes, I know I can ask other campers for help but that detracts from my being a self-sufficient female who otherwise generally has positive experiences camping alone.

In summary, I feel you. I have tried absolutely everything people have recommended all with no success. Here's hoping the Equalizer hitch will work better when it comes to sway control AND unhitching the TT.

I struggled with the same thing last summer with a Vibe 243BHS and Equalizer WDH.

Here's what I learned that helps: Sometimes you have to pull forward, or back up, just a bit so that the ball is more/less centered (front/back) in the coupler socket. If the ball is too far back, it'll keep the lock from engaging (when hooking up) or keep it from disengaging (when disconnecting).

Also, pay close attention to the vertical position of the coupler when raising/lowering the trailer. To easily engage/disengage the lock, you want little to no load on your tow vehicle. When disconnecting, watch for the position where the load comes off the tow vehicle, but before the jack starts pulling it up. It's very subtle. When connecting, watch for the position just before the trailer starts to load down the hitch.

Easier to see/demonstrate than describe in words.

Also - remember to disconnect the sway bars before driving away...

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by rvdoctor

Most couplers have an adjustment nut (most are 3/4") on the underside of coupler. Can be seen if you look upwards from the bottom into the coupler. Just loosen the nut a bit until until you are satisfied it works okay.

This no longer true. Newer tt do not have. Later RJD

[busdriverwc75]

Okay, we had a similar experience with our 2017 MiniLite. This is our 3rd trailer, so we are not newbies. It didn't start acting up until maybe our 3rd trip out, but didn't do it all the time. Hitching & unhitching became frustrating, as we tried all of the tips & tricks we knew, but didn't know which would work on any given day.

I happened to be dropping the trailer off at the shop for an AC warranty issue & lo & behold, it got stuck while I was in their lot. So, I went in to the service guy & asked him to come out & see the problem. Before we even got to my truck & trailer, he said, "Oh, you have one of those. I do, too. Let me show you what works for me." For us, it's as simple as jiggling the latch constantly when we are lowering the trailer after hitching up or taking our EQ bars off. Sometimes, it releases almost instantly, other times we have to take it really low. He said there is only one sweet spot that it will unlatch & we were overshooting it most of the time because we were accustomed to taking the trailer pretty far down before trying to lock/unlock like we had to do with our 2 previous trailers.

[terry47]

I carry an 18 inch crowbar. It pops the coupler free

[fredoe61]

Put a coat of oil or grease on it before each use. When you unhitch and raise the camper up you may have to move the tow vehicle slightly to take pressure off but it will pop out.

[southpaw821]

Use a persuasion tool, aka, rubber mallet. Makes it much easier, and you dont need all of the pressure off the ball to get it to release.

[tom39]

Originally Posted by busdriverwc75

For us, it's as simple as jiggling the latch constantly when we are lowering the trailer after hitching up or taking our EQ bars off. Sometimes, it releases almost instantly, other times we have to take it really low. He said there is only one sweet spot that it will unlatch & we were overshooting it most of the time.

+1

Prior to taking any steps to unhitch your tt, release the ball latch, then jiggle and also pull back the catch while raising the tt.
Additionally, a thin layer of oil or grease on the ball is all that is needed, unless you like the idea of getting grease all over you and everything else.
Personally, prior to each trip, I clean the ball and socket with a rag and a bit of paint thinner or mineral spirits. I then only use about 3-4 drops of motor oil to recoat the ball. Once I return after a each trip, I then wipe it all off with a dry rag. I don't use a cleaner at this point as the remaining oil will help deter rust or corrosion. By using this method it has kept my coupling connections clean, smooth and operational for the life of the trailer.

HIH,
Tom G



Sent from my SM-G930V using Forest River Forums mobile app

[marinerjoe]

I have the same mechanism, and it can be tricky. As an Andersen WDH user, it is an absolute NO-NO to use any lubricants on the ball. So we wiggle and jiggle untill it comes off.

[tom39]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

I have the same mechanism, and it can be tricky. As an Andersen WDH user, it is an absolute NO-NO to use any lubricants on the ball. So we wiggle and jiggle untill it comes off.

Purely out of curiously, I am wondering why they would prohibit the use of lubricant.

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by tom39

Purely out of curiously, I am wondering why they would prohibit the use of lubricant.

The friction between the ball and the coupler is an integral part of the anti-sway capability.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by tom39

Purely out of curiously, I am wondering why they would prohibit the use of lubricant.

Some Anderson brand hitch balls are coated with a nylon cap.
No grease necessary. I've never heard the friction between the ball and the coupler is part of the anti-sway feature. Interesting and confusing especially when they sell a coated ball to promote reduced wear and ease of operation. (essentially what grease does) I always thought it was their tapered ball shank/brake material coupled with the chains that turn the shank, that created the anti-sway and not friction on the ball head/coupler.

3663 - 2-5/16" Greaseless HardBall

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Some Anderson brand hitch balls are coated with a nylon cap.
No grease necessary. I've never heard the friction between the ball and the coupler is part of the anti-sway feature. Interesting and confusing.

It's not the friction between the ball and the coupler. The ball doesn't move within the coupler. What moves is the entire ball assembly rotates within the housing with a nylon bushing allowing movement at the bottom part of the ball mount. The force from the chains gives the assembly the correct amount of rotational friction to provide the anti-sway.

And before you ask, it works REALLY well.

Here's information on instlling and photos of the components:
https://help.andersenhitches.com/ins...ribution-hitch

[5picker]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

The friction between the ball and the coupler is an integral part of the anti-sway capability.

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

It's not the friction between the ball and the coupler. The ball doesn't move within the coupler. What moves is the entire ball assembly rotates within the housing with a nylon bushing allowing movement at the bottom part of the ball mount. The force from the chains gives the assembly the correct amount of rotational friction to provide the anti-sway.

And before you ask, it works REALLY well.

Here's information on instlling and photos of the components:
https://help.andersenhitches.com/ins...ribution-hitch

OK... so maybe I misread your first post?

It's all good... I knew how it works.

[marinerjoe]

Sometimes my fingers move before the brain is fully engaged. Kinda like how my tongue works.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

Sometimes my fingers move before the brain is fully engaged. Kinda like how my tongue works.

Me too Joe... me too!

[jhogue46140]

I have the type that you lift up and pull back to disengage too. I also have trouble from time to time getting it disengaged. What I have found to work is using a big flat head screwdriver. Stick it in the slotin front of the latch before pulling up. Gently pry as you lift up and it will slide the latch back and release the hitch ball.

[CurtPutnam]

We have the "new & improved" version. Just this weekend, my wife discovered the "sweet spot" thing. Don; think she remembers where, in the jack's vertical travel, that spot is. Just knowing it is there should relieve a tremendous amount of frustration.