Dealer sold me 1000/10k hitch for my 4000lb trailer -- should I care?

[pg_rider]

I bought an Equal-i-zer hitch at RVW when I picked up my ~4000lb Rockwood 2306 trailer there this past weekend. I "suggested" to the parts counter girl that I needed the 600/6K model; she looked confused and said she wasn't even sure they stocked them. She brought the tech over and he agreed that the 1000/10k hitch was the right choice -- "as long as it's rated more than the weight of the trailer and tongue you're good to go".

Not knowing enough about them to push back I went with the 1000/10K. I have to admit that it worked brilliantly -- I was very impressed with the overall feel and ride quality. However, I can't help but think I'm running the "wrong" bars. Should I care?

Assuming I should care, or worry, what are the chances I could simply swap the 10k bars for the 6k ones?

[Great Lakes]

RVW sold me the same hitch last year for my 2104 which weighs about 3500 lbs. It has performed flawlessly, & we're very happy with it. The hitch wasn't really all that expensive, so my advice is to enjoy your new rig and hitch, and most of all .

Tom T.
2011 - 2104 Mini Lite

[LadyWindrider]

The hitch head and slide (the part that does in the tube), are going to to be the 10,000 pound rating. The bars have their own rating, and can be 400 up to 10,000, maybe even more. Not sure what part of the hitch you are reading to get your numbers. Look the bars up separately, but if it worked, and you liked it, what is your complaint? No real money difference.

[VTX Al]

Originally Posted by pg_rider

I bought an Equal-i-zer hitch at RVW when I picked up my ~4000lb Rockwood 2306 trailer there this past weekend. I "suggested" to the parts counter girl that I needed the 600/6K model; she looked confused and said she wasn't even sure they stocked them. She brought the tech over and he agreed that the 1000/10k hitch was the right choice -- "as long as it's rated more than the weight of the trailer and tongue you're good to go".

Not knowing enough about them to push back I went with the 1000/10K. I have to admit that it worked brilliantly -- I was very impressed with the overall feel and ride quality. However, I can't help but think I'm running the "wrong" bars. Should I care?

Assuming I should care, or worry, what are the chances I could simply swap the 10k bars for the 6k ones?

You shouldn't care or worry - just use the 1000 lb ones and realize that next year when you trade your trailer for a new one with a heavier hitch wieght you won't have to get a new hitch.

...VTX-AL

[caper]

If you are having a good ride why change out the bars. You do not have to put as mush pressure on the bars to get the TV level. Sit back and enjoy the ride.

[Triguy]

Have you weighed your trailer loaded for camping?

At a 13% tongue weight, a 4,000lb trailer would give you roughly a 520lb tongue. A 4,500lb trailer is at 585lbs. I would have gone with the 1,000/10,000lb anyway with your trailer just based on those estimates.

Also, Progressive (Equal-i-zer) has told me in the past that they engineer their 1,000lb bars for a range from 400lbs to 1,000lbs.

I think you are fine as long as you are not bouncing down the road, which is the issue that might be expected with bars that are too heavy.

[pg_rider]

Thanks for the inputs -- I'm going to stick with what I have. Now I just need to get my setup weighed.

[rkswyo]

Originally Posted by Triguy

Have you weighed your trailer loaded for camping?

At at 13% tongue weight, a 4,000lb trailer would give you roughly a 520lb tongue. A 4,500lb trailer is at 585lbs. I would have gone with the 1,000/10,000lb anyway with your trailer just based on those estimates.

Also, Progressive (Equal-i-zer) has told me in the past that they engineer their 1,000lb bars for a range from 400lbs to 1,000lbs.

I think you are fine as long as you are not bouncing down the road, which is the issue that might be expected with bars that are too heavy.

Based on the estimates you have shown, it seems to me the 600/6000 comes closer to matching than the 1000/10,000. Why would you opt for the 1000/10,000? Just curious because I have seen this before and never quite understood why. I talked to Progressive and they told me the same thing but didn't explain why. First thought for me would be to match the numbers up. In this case it would be the 600/6000.

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by rkswyo

Based on the estimates you have shown, it seems to me the 600/6000 comes closer to matching than the 1000/10,000. Why would you opt for the 1000/10,000? Just curious because I have seen this before and never quite understood why. I talked to Progressive and they told me the same thing but didn't explain why. First thought for me would be to match the numbers up. In this case it would be the 600/6000.

Good question. Here's my logic.

Its been my experience that I have better results not pushing the limits of product ratings. I've made some mistakes that have bitten me later on. So, when I can, I like to have the rating be in excess of what I need it for. Hence the 1,000 bars even though, technically, the 600lb bars might be sufficient.

This is not always possible for me, of course. For example, I currently am pushing the limits of my TV's payload, although I am still below it. In my case, I am happy to push the limit as the alternative would be relatively expensive.

In the OP's case, the cost is de minimus going from 600lb to 1,000 lb bars, other people have reported good experiences using heavier bars with the Equal-i-izer WDH and Progressive says that its engineered to be that way.

Also, I'd be concerned that the OPs trailer is heavier than they think once its loaded up for a real camping trip (A good reason to weigh it when setting out on a real trip). The trailer's GVWR is 4,700lbs which might give them a TW of over 600lbs. So, practically, the 1,000 lb bars give them room to pack and not worry about it.

[buckeyefan]

I would have even taken the 1200/12000 or the 1400/14000 bars had they offered.
You never know when you will buy a larger trailer and there is more market for higher capacity bars than lower capacity bars. You my $.02... $.98 more will get you a coffee :>)

[rkswyo]

Originally Posted by Triguy

Good question. Here's my logic.

Its been my experience that I have better results not pushing the limits of product ratings. I've made some mistakes that have bitten me later on. So, when I can, I like to have the rating be in excess of what I need it for. Hence the 1,000 bars even though, technically, the 600lb bars might be sufficient.

This is not always possible for me, of course. For example, I currently am pushing the limits of my TV's payload, although I am still below it. In my case, I am happy to push the limit as the alternative would be relatively expensive.

In the OP's case, the cost is de minimus going from 600lb to 1,000 lb bars, other people have reported good experiences using heavier bars with the Equal-i-izer WDH and Progressive says that its engineered to be that way.

Also, I'd be concerned that the OPs trailer is heavier than they think once its loaded up for a real camping trip (A good reason to weigh it when setting out on a real trip). The trailer's GVWR is 4,700lbs which might give them a TW of over 600lbs. So, practically, the 1,000 lb bars give them room to pack and not worry about it.

Good explanation. I like to allow some wiggle room as well. I was a little concerned the bars may be too stiff. Like you said most people will underestimate weights. Thanks!

[punkaccountant]

I'd like to get some feedback on this as well. I'm in a similar position only I currently own an Equal-i-zer rated at 1,000/10,000. I am down-sizing my TT and will be picking up a 2306 in a couple weeks. I was concerned about the hitch being too stiff for the frame and not providing enough "give" potentially damaging the frame. I contacted Progressive Manufacturing and they said my current hitch was fine. However, I also contacted Forest River and they did not recommend using a hitch rated that high. That's the dilemma. I would prefer not to purchase a new hitch and it is good to hear that it tows well with the higher bars but if the manufacturer recommends not using then then...

PG, I'd recommend contacting FR directly and getting a second opinion on this. I believe I spoke to someone named Greg.

[rkswyo]

This is why I let my 1000/10,000 go with my larger trailer I just sold to by my 19rr. Still a little confused. I figured with the 19rr I would need the 600/6000. I am going to see how it pulls before I buy anything.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by punkaccountant

PG, I'd recommend contacting FR directly and getting a second opinion on this. I believe I spoke to someone named Greg.

if that is Gregg Rollins, the Rockwood rep, i would trust Progressive over his opinion.

[acadianbob]

Originally Posted by buckeyefan

I would have even taken the 1200/12000 or the 1400/14000 bars had they offered.
You never know when you will buy a larger trailer and there is more market for higher capacity bars than lower capacity bars. You my $.02... $.98 more will get you a coffee :>)

I would respectfully disagree with this point of view. Overly stiff bars give you a bad ride and can even damage your trailer frame is severe cases.

[edman87k5]

Couldnt you just adjust to reduce the tension on the bars? Or am I missing something here?

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by edman87k5

Couldnt you just adjust to reduce the tension on the bars? Or am I missing something here?

Adjusting the tension on the bars will not give you the proper weight distribution.

Heavier spring bars on level ground are not the problem. You adjust the bars so you get weight back on the front end of the tow vehicle....in most cases you want to be close to the weight without the trailer hooked up.

The problem occurs when you go through a dip, like a big swell entering a gas station or someplace like that. Heavy bars with a lite trailer tongue weight are going to tend to pick up the back of the tow vehicle, and maybe put too much weight on the tow vehicle front axle. Also, if the bars don't give, then it is more likely that the rear of the trailer might drag in those situations, especially for us that have low riding trailers. I try to hit dips at an angle to prevent over stressing the WDH, and also to prevent the rear of the trailer from dragging.....or even look for a better way in and out of places where I want to stop.

If the spring bars are overly heavy, and if the trailer tongue does not have enough weight to spring the bars, then going down the road the tow vehicle will feel stiff in the back end.

I realize that someone posted here that Progressive Manufacturing told them that heavier bars than needed are OK. I can't argue with them, as they have structural engineers for their products. But, I sometimes wonder if they consider the structure of the tow vehicle and trailer.

IMHO, bars should be sized according to the load to prevent stress problems on the tow vehicle and trailer, and for the overall towing experience. If the actual tongue weight is within 50 lbs. of a set of lighter bars, then maybe going up to the next weight might be needed....as long as that weight bars cover that weight. Generally, spring bars cover the weights of 1/2 to the maximum of the load. So 1000 lb. spring bars will range from 500 to 1000 lbs. But, for a 500 lb. trailer tongue, 600 lb. bars (300 to 600 lbs.) might be a better fit, as long as good weight distribution can be obtained.

[rkswyo]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

Adjusting the tension on the bars will not give you the proper weight distribution.

Heavier spring bars on level ground are not the problem. You adjust the bars so you get weight back on the front end of the tow vehicle....in most cases you want to be close to the weight without the trailer hooked up.

The problem occurs when you go through a dip, like a big swell entering a gas station or someplace like that. Heavy bars with a lite trailer tongue weight are going to tend to pick up the back of the tow vehicle, and maybe put too much weight on the tow vehicle front axle. Also, if the bars don't give, then it is more likely that the rear of the trailer might drag in those situations, especially for us that have low riding trailers. I try to hit dips at an angle to prevent over stressing the WDH, and also to prevent the rear of the trailer from dragging.....or even look for a better way in and out of places where I want to stop.

If the spring bars are overly heavy, and if the trailer tongue does not have enough weight to spring the bars, then going down the road the tow vehicle will feel stiff in the back end.

I realize that someone posted here that Progressive Manufacturing told them that heavier bars than needed are OK. I can't argue with them, as they have structural engineers for their products. But, I sometimes wonder if they consider the structure of the tow vehicle and trailer.

IMHO, bars should be sized according to the load to prevent stress problems on the tow vehicle and trailer, and for the overall towing experience. If the actual tongue weight is within 50 lbs. of a set of lighter bars, then maybe going up to the next weight might be needed....as long as that weight bars cover that weight. Generally, spring bars cover the weights of 1/2 to the maximum of the load. So 1000 lb. spring bars will range from 500 to 1000 lbs. But, for a 500 lb. trailer tongue, 600 lb. bars (300 to 600 lbs.) might be a better fit, as long as good weight distribution can be obtained.

This is one of the best explanations I have seen on this post. Thanks!

[RoadDog66]

I recently emailed both Equalizer and Etrailer.com asking the same question about my Roo 19 (similar weights) and using a 1000/10,000 WD hitch. Basically both stated that the 1000/10,000 was the way to go and would also provide room to grow. They also said that the Equalizer has adjustments that would allow the stabilzer bars to be used safely even if under 600 lbs TW.

I think for those of us with trailers on the borderline it's a tough call, but I would think it's safer to have too much hitch rather than not enough. I'd rather have a bumpy ride than a hitch busting loose.

[punkaccountant]

Originally Posted by bikendan

if that is Gregg Rollins, the Rockwood rep, i would trust Progressive over his opinion.

Wow, interesting take! I'm not the OP but thanks everyone for your inputs. I had resolved that I would need a new hitch but I am leaning towards just keeping the 1,000/10,000 Equal-i-zer I have now and just seeing how it goes.