Desperatly in need of the correct TV info

[OTHsnoozer]

My wife and I fell in love with a Rockwood Featherlite TT that has a stated weight of 7400lbs. The two dealers that we visited said I'm OK pulling it with my 2000 GMC Yukon 5.3L with tow package (towing capacity rated at 8100lbs) but several of my friends don't think that's true. They recommend that I try to see if I can't do some modifiactions to the SUV that would improve HP and tourque and if i don't, then they tell me that I'll need another TV for this TT. (I did look into a BANKS system but they don't seem to have a complete system for my model).

I would appreciate any comments from experienced RV'ers on the following:

1. Is it safe to tow this TT with what I have now?

2. If not, are there any modifications that can be made that would make
our SUV able to pull this TT safely?

3. I understand that Toyota is the only company that has actually
complied with the new SAE J2807 towing standard, so what am I to
believe if I have to shop for a newer SUV TV?

4. How do I figure what is a "safe" towing capacity regardless of the
vehicles stated towing capacity.

Thanks in advance for your help. (Feel free to send me an e-mail if you would like)

[Wumba]

Too much weight IMO for an suv or 1/2 ton. 3/4 would give you plenty of power and less worries. The weight of the TT you mentioned is the base weight. Once you start adding things inside, you are going to be well over 8k. Don't go by what a salesman tells you. All they want to see (most of them) is you drive off the lot with something. Good luck!

[TURBS]

You need to post more numbers to figure this out.

Year make and model of tt

Don't ever believe a dealer telling u that your tv will tow the unit there trying to sell you.

Mods to your tv will never add towing capacity to it !

Only true way to ultimately know your tv weights is to load tv as you were to go camping and scale it.


Actual towing numbers from your truck are needed.

Normally you'll surpass your cargo carring capacity before anything.

Theses numbers are on your door jamb and door.

Turbs

[troyt]

This might be a little lengthy, but very important.

If you are pulling a camper that is too heavy for your vehicle you are slowly causing damage to your tow vehicle. But, more importantly, you are running the risk of getting into a towing situation where you are simply unable to control your camper because your vehicle is not rated for the load it is pulling. Most towing accidents could be avoided by simply pulling within your SAFE towing capacity.

So, if someone tries to tell you that the weight of the camper is "close enough" to your towing capacity...think again. The MAXIMUM Tow Capacity is NOT the same as the Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight...that must be determined using the formula below.

Below is a guide to calculating your true towing capacity.

STEP 1 -- Determine the TOWING CAPACITY of your vehicle...this is usually stated in your owner's manual, sticker on the driver side door.

(Example: 2009 Ford F-150 Supercab....7800 pounds MAX Tow Rating)

STEP 2 -- Subtract 10% as a safety margin. Most vehicle tow ratings have been embellished and were also calculated without passengers, fuel and cargo....Edmunds.com recommends subtracting 10% from the maximum tow rating to compensate for this. (Example: Subract 780 pounds)

STEP 3 -- Subtract any gear or camping equipment that you plan to take with you..this includes any water, food, chairs, etc. This also includes your weight distribution hitch if you have one.
(Example: 80 pounds Weight Distribution hitch + 60 pounds Propane + 250 pounds Fresh Water + 500 pounds Average weight of food & gear for weekend camp trip for family of four = 890 pounds)

STEP 4 -- The number that you are left with is the MAXIMUM trailer weight that is recommended for your vehicle to safely tow. (Example: 7800-780-890= 6130 pounds)

So, in this example...a 2009 Ford F-150 Supercab with a Maximum Tow Rating of 7800 pounds has a Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight of 6130 pounds (trailer DRY weight or UVW).

Now...ask yourself..is your camper too heavy for your tow vehicle? Remember...bigger isn't always better, especially when it comes to towing. Staying within your Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight is the only SAFE way to tow.

Hope this helps?

[Twisty]

You may run out of payload capacity on that truck b4 you exceed other numbers.
Consider a 1 ton truck. They are usually only slightly more than 3/4 tons.

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by troyt

This might be a little lengthy, but very important.

If you are pulling a camper that is too heavy for your vehicle you are slowly causing damage to your tow vehicle. But, more importantly, you are running the risk of getting into a towing situation where you are simply unable to control your camper because your vehicle is not rated for the load it is pulling. Most towing accidents could be avoided by simply pulling within your SAFE towing capacity.

So, if someone tries to tell you that the weight of the camper is "close enough" to your towing capacity...think again. The MAXIMUM Tow Capacity is NOT the same as the Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight...that must be determined using the formula below.

Below is a guide to calculating your true towing capacity.

STEP 1 -- Determine the TOWING CAPACITY of your vehicle...this is usually stated in your owner's manual, sticker on the driver side door.

(Example: 2009 Ford F-150 Supercab....7800 pounds MAX Tow Rating)

STEP 2 -- Subtract 10% as a safety margin. Most vehicle tow ratings have been embellished and were also calculated without passengers, fuel and cargo....Edmunds.com recommends subtracting 10% from the maximum tow rating to compensate for this. (Example: Subract 780 pounds)

STEP 3 -- Subtract any gear or camping equipment that you plan to take with you..this includes any water, food, chairs, etc. This also includes your weight distribution hitch if you have one.
(Example: 80 pounds Weight Distribution hitch + 60 pounds Propane + 250 pounds Fresh Water + 500 pounds Average weight of food & gear for weekend camp trip for family of four = 890 pounds)

STEP 4 -- The number that you are left with is the MAXIMUM trailer weight that is recommended for your vehicle to safely tow. (Example: 7800-780-890= 6130 pounds)

So, in this example...a 2009 Ford F-150 Supercab with a Maximum Tow Rating of 7800 pounds has a Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight of 6130 pounds (trailer DRY weight or UVW).

Now...ask yourself..is your camper too heavy for your tow vehicle? Remember...bigger isn't always better, especially when it comes to towing. Staying within your Maximum Allowable Trailer Weight is the only SAFE way to tow.

Hope this helps?

I agree with what you said, but it is only a small part of the picture, and also the easiest part of the calculations to meet...which makes it kind if deceptive. You can't begin to tow what that number will tell you because you'll exceed GVWR and rear GAWR long before you get to that much weight.

[ependydad]

I wrote this to answer a very similar question for my father-in-law. He has a 4Runner and needed to know what the maximum amount of trailer he could pull with it's 7,100 pound tow rating. Truth be told, quite a bit less:
What Can I Tow?

And then wrote him about his vehicle specifically (other way around, but I digress):
4Runner Example

[Cajun Style]

I have a TT that starts with 7456 UVW I bought a 3/4 Ton with a 3.7:3 Gear Ratio with a 18350 GCWR pulls it with on problem.
Great Truck

[asquared]

The first thing you need to do is better understand your trucks capabilities than just my truck can tow x lbs. (I learned this the hard way). Most TV are limited by their payload. To find out your TVs true towing capacities then you need to go weigh it. Load the tv up with all occupants, pets, and cargo that will be in it when towing plus a full tank of fuel and then go weigh it at a local scale (CAT Scale ). Weigh each axle on a separate scale pad so it will give you a breakdown of front and rear axle weights individually and a total weight. Take the total weight and subtract it from your Trucks gvwr to get your available payload. Take the scaled Truck weight and subtract it from your Truck gcwr to get your adjusted towng capacity.

Next understand you will never tow an unloaded or dry trailer. Those numbers are somewhat irrelevant. You can either add the amount of weight of cargo you will tow to the dry weight (this is heavier than you think as most add 1000-2000 lb of gear) or simply use the tt gvwr to do your calculations. Being that this is your first tt, using the tt gvwr is the safer route for you. Next understand that the tt loaded tongue weight needs to be subtracted from your available payload. The loaded tongue weight is typically 13-15% of the loaded tt weight. For your purposes go with 13-15% of the tt gvwr.

[great white]

That 7400 lb weight is probably the dry weight.

It's easily going to be closer to 8,000 loaded up and ready to go camping. Unless you don't plan to take anything with you like propane, clothes, food, chairs, blankets, toys, etc.

Fill the fresh water tanks and you're going to pop over the 8100lb trailer rating you've stated by a good 3-400 lbs.

Now chuck a full fuel tank, a couple adults and maybe the kids, dog and assorted bric-a-brak in the truck and you're waaaaay overloaded for the ratings on a 1500.

Also consider that tow ratings are not just how much "weight" the engine can handle. It's in consideration of the suspension capacity, the transmission, the axles, the brakes, frame size, etc. More power with "tunes" etc just means it's easier to get it rolling. It does not mean the vehicle can handle it. In actuality, more power in to a transmission that isn't rated for the towed weight is just going to reduce it's service life dramatically. The last place you want to find out the brakes aren't rated for the weight is brake fade going down a long steep hill. Overweighted suspension unloads the steering wheels (ie:front) and makes it squirrelly handling and can lead to trailer sway and rear suspension sag. Wd hitches can help this, but overloaded is overloaded....

Lastly, if you get scaled (ie: weighed) and you're over the weight rating on the door placard, the enforcement agency isn't going to care if you've modified the vehicle. You're overweight and they just might make you sit there until you can make it weigh within the tow vehicles weight rating.

I've seen it happen in British Columbia; big trailers behind 3/4 tons sitting by the side of the road because the RCMP won't let them proceed due to over weight. I've had to go get a friends travel trailer out there once because they wouldn't let him go with his 1/2 ton.....mine is a 3/4 ton diesel rated for a 10,000lb trailer....it will haul way more than that, but thats the oem rating.

[OTHsnoozer]

I appreciate all of the replies, and it looks like I should stay away from using my current vehicle with its current configuration as a TV for this trailer no matter what the dealers said. Unfortunatly, we're not able to buy another TV right now as we could't afford both a new TV and TT so pPerhaps someone out there knows if there are any mods that could be made on the engine, framework or tire size that I could possibly make on my existing vehicle which would improve its towing ability?

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by OTHsnoozer

I appreciate all of the replies, and it looks like I should stay away from using my current vehicle with its current configuration as a TV for this trailer no matter what the dealers said. Unfortunatly, we're not able to buy another TV right now as we could't afford both a new TV and TT so pPerhaps someone out there knows if there are any mods that could be made on the engine, framework or tire size that I could possibly make on my existing vehicle which would improve its towing ability?

There is no aftermarket solution that will change a tow vehicles published rating.

There are rare circumstances where changing the axle ratio to another that was offered by the manufacturer will change the tow rating, but that most likely does not apply in your situation.

Even if it were possible, you are talking about starting with replacing all brake hardware (1500-2000), then doing suspension (1000-1500), a transmission rebuild with heavier components (3500-5000) upgraded axles (1500-3000), cooling system (300-500), before we talk about custom welding frame plates etc. You can see how even as a theoretical exercise this just does not work.

Have you looked at trading for something larger that might be a few years older and closer to your price range?

[OTHsnoozer]

Originally Posted by jeeplj8

There is no aftermarket solution that will change a tow vehicles published rating.

Unfortunatly my wife wants to keep the SUV we have, but I might have another option that I'm working on. Stopped by the GM dealer today and they have a completly redesigned 2014 Yukon coming out in October that will have a tow rating over 10,500 lbs with their "Maximun Trailering" pkg. In fact, the Yukon is built on the same platform as the 2014 Sierra that was just released last week. I looked it over and it really looks sharp with a maximum tow rating of 11,400 lbs! I know, it's hard to believe for a 1/2 ton p/u but that's what they claim in writing. Now if I can only convince my wife . . . .

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by OTHsnoozer

Unfortunatly my wife wants to keep the SUV we have, but I might have another option that I'm working on. Stopped by the GM dealer today and they have a completly redesigned 2014 Yukon coming out in October that will have a tow rating over 10,500 lbs with their "Maximun Trailering" pkg. In fact, the Yukon is built on the same platform as the 2014 Sierra that was just released last week. I looked it over and it really looks sharp with a maximum tow rating of 11,400 lbs! I know, it's hard to believe for a 1/2 ton p/u but that's what they claim in writing. Now if I can only convince my wife . . . .

Bear in mind- you need to largely ignore the tow capacity and focus on the payload/GVWR because you'll max that out long before you hit maximum towing capacity. The higher tow rate definitely implies a higher payload, though! Also make sure you option it out correctly to get the most payload.

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by OTHsnoozer

Unfortunatly my wife wants to keep the SUV we have, but I might have another option that I'm working on. Stopped by the GM dealer today and they have a completly redesigned 2014 Yukon coming out in October that will have a tow rating over 10,500 lbs with their "Maximun Trailering" pkg. In fact, the Yukon is built on the same platform as the 2014 Sierra that was just released last week. I looked it over and it really looks sharp with a maximum tow rating of 11,400 lbs! I know, it's hard to believe for a 1/2 ton p/u but that's what they claim in writing. Now if I can only convince my wife . . . .

We used to have a Tahoe that my wife loved. It was my daily driver but she would steal it often. I was at the time getting into trail riding with a jeep I had built. We loaded up the family to pull it for a weekend ride. Was about 4500# loaded up ready to go. Plus family, food, gear put The Tahoe over the cargo capacity. It was miserable. The truck had trouble with every grade, got pushed around and generally just did not feel up to the task. My wife hated it. She felt unsafe. She sat in her seat, hands glued to the oh crap handle staying at our young daughter in the back.

When we got back she insisted I get a new truck. I picked up a 3/4 ton Diesel and have never looked back.

[asquared]

As stated above the max stated towing capacity is about as fictional as the dry weight of a trailer. It is just not a number that will ever be applicable. You need to look at the payload sticker in the drivers Side door and then subtract the weight of people, pets and items that will be in the vehicle from that number. you will find this to be the limitation of a half ton anything. on the other hand, you could look at a 3/4 ton suburban or an older 3/4 ton ford excursion (they quit making them somewhere around 2005 I believe). this will get you a stronger tow vehicle without giving up the SUV. The ex is even available as a diesel but these suvs are like gold and hard to get your hands on. Another option is a 1 ton van.

[Cajun Style]

You have to consider wheel base!

[Cajun Style]

GCWR - TV - fuel, and whatever else you have in TV, then you have your GVWR ( the TT ), and every thing in it.

[pwrstroke2012]

Originally Posted by OTHsnoozer

Unfortunatly my wife wants to keep the SUV we have, but I might have another option that I'm working on. Stopped by the GM dealer today and they have a completly redesigned 2014 Yukon coming out in October that will have a tow rating over 10,500 lbs with their "Maximun Trailering" pkg. In fact, the Yukon is built on the same platform as the 2014 Sierra that was just released last week. I looked it over and it really looks sharp with a maximum tow rating of 11,400 lbs! I know, it's hard to believe for a 1/2 ton p/u but that's what they claim in writing. Now if I can only convince my wife . . . .

My trailer is the same weight as yours and I went down the same road thinking the F150 max tow package (11,300# rated) would be the same as a 3/4 or 1 ton. I found out the hard way that line of thinking is totally wrong. It actually cost me more money by not buying the right vehicle the first time. They may claim in writing that the 1/2 ton will tow alot but they are trying to sell you something that in the real world doesn't work. 3/4 or 1 tons are not that much more money than a 1/2 ton.

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by Twisty

You may run out of payload capacity on that truck b4 you exceed other numbers.
Consider a 1 ton truck. They are usually only slightly more than 3/4 tons.

And in many cases, LESS than a 3/4 ton, b/c the dealers tend to include every possible option on the 3/4 ton stock units, and b/c the 1 ton trucks don't sell as quickly.

But I agree -- it APPEARS on the surface that that tt would be too heavy for a 1/2 ton pickup. Take it from a guy who knows - and who recently had to upgrade to a 3/4 ton for the very same reason.