DirecLink Brake Controller

jshadonix · 02-07-2015, 10:58 AM

Wondering if anyone out there uses a DirecLink brake controller?

Amazon.com: DirecLink Brake Controller: Automotive

Thinking about pulling the trigger on buying one, and just curious if anyone else has used one and has any good/bad feedback?

I'm not towing anything particularly heavy or challenging, I just like the clean look it would provide when installed, and the ability to unhook the command module and have it out of sight when I'm not towing.

f5moab · 02-07-2015, 12:41 PM

Sorry can't say, looks interesting though.

However, if you are looking for a controller that you don't have to hard wire into the vehicle and mount on or hang under the dash, did you look at the Tekonsha Prodigy RF?
Tekonsha - Prodigy® RF

I have one, used it for two years in my 2013 Silverado, and it worked perfectly, and when not being used, I put the control head in the console. The box that is mounted to the trailer took about fifteen minutes to mount.

Just a thought....

jshadonix · 02-07-2015, 12:53 PM

I saw that one too. Do you ever have any issues/concerns about anything interfering with the wireless signal? (i.e. Kids in the car playing with all their WiFi/Cell Phone/Electronic junk?)

f5moab · 02-07-2015, 01:35 PM

Can't say, only thing in my back seat is a Malamute

I know that bluetooth does not bother it, since I always link via bluetooth to my vehicles and that means my cell phone signals don't cause problems; from the cell phone and/or Onstar.

I would hope that a company like Tekonsha would have checked for things like WiFi signals; especially now that vehicles can be WiFi hot spots now.

jshadonix · 02-07-2015, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f5moab

Can't say, only thing in my back seat is a Malamute

I know that bluetooth does not bother it, since I always link via bluetooth to my vehicles and that means my cell phone signals don't cause problems; from the cell phone and/or Onstar.

I would hope that a company like Tekonsha would have checked for things like WiFi signals; especially now that vehicles can be WiFi hot spots now.

Good info and fair point.

Now the only problem is I'm more confused rather than less confused. I started out being on the fence about buying one brake controller. Now I'm on the fence about buying two different kinds.

GreenImp · 02-07-2015, 08:29 PM

I found several threads with input from DirecLink owners on some other forums. Don't know if posting these links is allowed, but don't see any reason they shouldn't be so...

DirecLink Brake controller... - Airstream Forums

Direclink brake controller - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Anybody else using Direclink Brake controller

As an IT professional, I can tell you that you won't catch me trusting my vehicles brakes to a wireless signal. I see FAR more problems with wireless devices than wired ones. Now a wireless backup camera...well sure, why not.

f5moab · 02-07-2015, 08:54 PM

The only wireless requirement is to mate the hand controller to the unit to set up the initial setup and program the required boost, and when you want to manually apply the trailer brakes with the hand unit. And if you want, you can view the hand unit to see the applied brake boost.

All other operations are basically hard wired.

GreenImp · 02-08-2015, 02:15 AM

Thank you for the clarification. I will admit that I had never heard of this unit before seeing the posts above. I have now viewed the manufacturers description, and see that this device appears to be essentially a standard inertia based controller who's "brain" is mounted to the trailer and who's "display" (and manual override switch) is handheld and connected via wireless. Based on the fact that the rarely needed yet very important manual override relies on wireless technology (unreliable IMO), I stand by my prior recommendation to not use one.

f5moab · 02-08-2015, 08:42 AM

Well, as someone who has USED this device for the past two years, and is not basing an opinion with no actual knowledge of the device and has NEVER experienced any problems with the use of the brake override (granted, not often used), but the display always noted it was connected, I would recommend it to anyone.

And another note, this unit is used quite a bit by companies that rent trailers since if a person has a vehicle that can tow a trailer, but has no factory installed or direct connected controller installed, they can use this Prodigy RF controller. And it is easily disconnected from the system so the same trailer can be used on vehicles that have hardwired controllers. (My selling dealer turned me on to this device when I picked up my trailer.)

Now, let's turn the thread back to the OP so he can find some recommendations for or against the directlink brake controller. And my apologies for going off subject!

wickedwyrm · 02-08-2015, 02:46 PM

I have used the wireless prodigy for the last two years and it works great. I've never had an issue. Just plugs into the cigarette lighter outlet.

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

jshadonix · 02-09-2015, 10:20 AM

Well...just clicked the button to order a DirectLink unit. It'll probably be next month sometime before I get the camper out and try it out, but at least I'll have it so I'll be ready!

jshadonix · 03-31-2015, 05:08 PM

Got it installed and tested it for the first time this weekend. It works great. Really smooth, and a clean looking install. But even though the brakes work (I can lock them up if I put it at 100%) and the brake lights come on when the brakes are engaged, it always says "NC" (not connected) on the screen.

Just got off the phone with their technical support, and the guy says because I have only a single axle, the problem is the brakes on the trailer aren't pulling enough load to make it think it's connected. (Or it thinks it's connected, but is expecting more than 2 brakes and thinks some are unhooked).

His suggested solution is to go buy a brake magnet and wire it between my blue wire and ground and just zip tie it up somewhere so it doesn't get in the way of things.

Does that sound like a reasonable thing to do? Off the top of my head his explanation seems plausible and I don't think his "fix" will really hurt anything. It just seems kinda silly.

f5moab · 03-31-2015, 06:15 PM

Seems strange to me. I used one for a few years, on a single axle popup and never had that problem when I synced it correctly. One time, when switching from my Silverao to my Hummer, I connected the trailer to the Hummer, plugged the controller in and could not get rid of the NC notice.

Then, I read the instructions and even though they didn't say so, when switching vehicles you have to program the controller. So, I went through the sync mode where you attached the unit on the trailer to the vehicle, but you do NOT have the trailer plugged into the unit.
Then I went through the syncing plugged the trailer into the controller and it worked. Then when switching back, I did the same sync assuming I had too.

But if the controller works, but the display says No Connection, something does not sound right; at least to me.

jshadonix · 03-31-2015, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f5moab

Seems strange to me. I used one for a few years, on a single axle popup and never had that problem when I synced it correctly. One time, when switching from my Silverao to my Hummer, I connected the trailer to the Hummer, plugged the controller in and could not get rid of the NC notice.

Then, I read the instructions and even though they didn't say so, when switching vehicles you have to program the controller. So, I went through the sync mode where you attached the unit on the trailer to the vehicle, but you do NOT have the trailer plugged into the unit.
Then I went through the syncing plugged the trailer into the controller and it worked. Then when switching back, I did the same sync assuming I had too.

But if the controller works, but the display says No Connection, something does not sound right; at least to me.

I think you're speaking about the wireless one. I'm talking about the DriectLink one that doesn't need to by synced.

f5moab · 03-31-2015, 07:54 PM

Yea, sorry about that.

thebrakeman · 04-01-2015, 11:34 AM

The Tekonsha RF unit is intended to be a help to those who want to tow the same trailer with multiple vehicles. The main unit is attached to the trailer, and you simply bring the cab-controller in whatever vehicle you are using to tow.

A standard brake controller (mounted in-cab, like the Prodigy, etc), is for those that want the ability to tow multiple trailers with the same tow vehicle.

Not sure what this DirectLink offers that would be worth $350. It seems nifty that it connects directly thru OBDII plug, so it's a "directlink" to the vehicle's systems, and I assume it is reading brake pressure and perhaps tapping into stability control sensors (?).

But $350!!! My Prodigy works really well, and if I want to remove it, all I do pull it out of the bracket and unplug the thing.

Not wanting to pooh-pooh your purchase. Truly. I simply don't see the benefit, worth 3x the cost.

GreenImp · 04-01-2015, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

Truly. I simply don't see the benefit, worth 3x the cost.

So have you ever towed with an Integrated Controller? I have yet to find anybody that has and shares your opinion. Even the "Big Three" vehicle manufacturers have transitioned to Integrated Controllers in recent years (note..."Integrated" does not mean simply built into the dash).

To the OP...It is disappointing that DirecLink didn't have a better answer for towing with one axle. In reality though...the controller isn't really there to tell you whether or not your trailer is hooked up. If the rest of the functions are as expected, I would probably (reluctantly) give up worrying about it. Having said that, you may be able to use a resistor to mimic the additional load that the "missing" brakes would put on the controller. Might be worth a try to call them back and talk to somebody more knowledgeable about the engineering behind their product.

thebrakeman · 04-02-2015, 12:30 PM

Like I said, I'm asking what is the benefit. I want to learn. Are you saying that if someone has not used a product, we are not allowed to enter into the discussion and ask questions?

If somebody is willing to spend 3-times the cost of a Tekonsha P2, there must be something significant about it's performance.

Regarding the integrated controllers from the OEMs, those are included from the factory as part of a HD towing package, so the owner has nothing else to do. That of itself is a significant benefit. But the cost is also much lower, as the package typically includes many other upgrades (engine cooling, trans cooling, mirrors, wiring upgrades, etc).

So, again, I'm not trying to pooh-pooh the product. I'm simply wondering what is the draw that is worth $350.

Alben · 06-02-2018, 01:03 AM

I have had the Tuson DirecLink brake controller for a year now. My tow vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit. My trailer is a Forest River Viking A-frame that weighs about 2,700 lbs loaded. I really like this controller. After I set it up and dialed it in, the stopping action is always smooth and consistent. When stopping, it feels as though the tow vehicle and the trailer is one single unit. However... this is my first trailer with electric brakes and I really don't have anything to compare it to. So I really can't say how it compares to other brake controllers.

ImTravis · 06-08-2018, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alben

I have had the Tuson DirecLink brake controller for a year now. My tow vehicle is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit. My trailer is a Forest River Viking A-frame that weighs about 2,700 lbs loaded. I really like this controller. After I set it up and dialed it in, the stopping action is always smooth and consistent. When stopping, it feels as though the tow vehicle and the trailer is one single unit. However... this is my first trailer with electric brakes and I really don't have anything to compare it to. So I really can't say how it compares to other brake controllers.

Seems this thread maybe starting up. I've used the P3 and currently have the DirectLink. I prefer the DirectLink as it does seem to work with my vehicle better (same truck for both controllers, even same trailer). The DirectLink to me, just seemed to brake smoother. I felt no difference between a loaded trailer and empty truck when braking. With the P3, I couldn't get that level of control. I believe it is because the DL is reading your braking power (i.e. halfway vs. all the way). Either way, you can't go wrong with either one.

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