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Old 05-20-2019, 02:36 PM   #1
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Do I need to adjust my WDH?

You guys have all been so helpful, I thought I would ask you another dumb question as I change my setup. I just switched from a 2012 f150 to a 2019 f150. I am pulling a coachmen Catalina 273tbs. I use an e2 round bar weight distribution hitch which worked phenomenally on my last truck. I have noticed that on this new truck, I have to raise the truck a lot higher in order to get the bars to slide onto the L brackets. On the last truck I could raise everything up and the bars would just slide on. Today in order to get the bars to slide on without using a lever, I had to lift the rear wheels of the truck all the way off the ground. I had assumed that the hitch height on my new truck was the same as the old one, but I realize that might have been a silly assumption. I measured the frame rails on my trailer once everything was connected. The distance between the frame and the ground is 1 and 1/2 in lower at the front of the camper then it is at the extreme rear. So the entire camper is slanted ever-so-slightly down in the front. I am wondering if I need to adjust the weight distribution hitch so that I don't have to lift so much in order to get the bars to slide on. I've attached a picture of the entire rig parked on level ground in case that should help. Thanks in advance for any insight!Click image for larger version

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Old 05-20-2019, 06:01 PM   #2
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I'd test drive it as is. Do your wheel well heights meet install specs? The pic makes your truck appear to be slightly unlevel back down. 1.5" front down on that long a TT isn't too much. The stinger on the hitch seem to have pretty standard 1.25-1.5" hole centers. So if you change the ball height, you may end up tilting the TT the other way. If you lower the bar ledges on the frame to make it easier on you, you would lessen the force applied to level the truck.
Basically, your best bet is to get the WDH manual and walk through the installation procedure to see if you are within intended specs.
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:13 PM   #3
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I'd go through the entire E2 setup manual again, ignoring any previous measurements. My guess is that if you had to raise it that much, you're likely overloading the front axle.

You may need to change the hitch head location on the shank shaft, or the L Bracket bolt hole locations, for instance. Plus, the chassis of the truck is likely beefier than the older one, so using the same setup won't work right anyway.

So, long story long...redo the entire setup for the new truck to be safe. IMO.
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier View Post
I'd go through the entire E2 setup manual again, ignoring any previous measurements. My guess is that if you had to raise it that much, you're likely overloading the front axle.

You may need to change the hitch head location on the shank shaft, or the L Bracket bolt hole locations, for instance. Plus, the chassis of the truck is likely beefier than the older one, so using the same setup won't work right anyway.

So, long story long...redo the entire setup for the new truck to be safe. IMO.
I think you are right. This truck has a heavy payload frame and seems to squat differently. I had it setup the first time at a dealer which is about an hour and a half away. Trying to decide if I want to try to tackle this myself or find someone to do it.

Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:02 PM   #5
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Do I need to adjust my WDH?

I only have a in my opinion, but in my opinion, never let the WD hitch lift the rear of the truck even a little bit above level. You have to have some load on those rear tires. A one to two inch squat is good. If weight is taken off the rear until you are actually lifting the rear of the truck above level then you are going to experience major stability problems. Fyi
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:08 PM   #6
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You can do it yourself. it's pretty easy overall. Just follow the instructions precisely. And compare it to the truck's manual on setting up a WDH. It shouldn't be too different.

You likely won't have to change the location of the L brackets on the trailer frame, since they are based on distance from the coupler. But you may have to raise or lower the L's on the bolts.

You may have to raise or lower the hitch head on the shank, and may need a longer shank depending on the measurements, but I doubt you will. You'll know pretty quick when you do the height measurements comparing the coupler height and the hitch ball height.

Finally, you may have to mess with the spacer washers (but I went with the default on my E2 and now my E4 and it works fine for me). I think default will be good for you, too.

Unless you have the capability to torque everything down to specs, you'll need to go get someone to do that aspect of it after it's all set up. Any trailer shop can do it for you for a small fee, or free (with a small tip to the dude doing it). Just make sure it's all set up correctly before you get the hitch head torqued to the shaft. Don't pay twice.

Quick note, just to make sure you measured the frame correctly...on my trailer, the A frame is welded to the main chassis frame and it sits several inches lower than the chassis frame. Make sure you measure from the front of the chassis frame and the rear of the chassis frame, not the front of the A frame (if it's made like mine).

Good luck.
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Old 05-20-2019, 08:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRP View Post
I only have a in my opinion, but in my opinion, never let the WD hitch lift the rear of the truck even a little bit above level. You have to have some load on those rear tires. A one to two inch squat is good. If weight is taken off the rear until you are actually lifting the rear of the truck above level then you are going to experience major stability problems. Fyi
With this system, you use the tongue jack of the trailer to lift up the back of the truck to relieve pressure until you can slide the spring bars on the L brackets. Then you lower it back down and raise the tongue jack stand. Sometimes you have to raise it higher than other times, but you always end up putting the weight back on the hitch. I think he was saying he had to raise it so high during the spring bar install that it lifted the truck. He wouldn't be driving like that.
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IchLiebeBier View Post
With this system, you use the tongue jack of the trailer to lift up the back of the truck to relieve pressure until you can slide the spring bars on the L brackets. Then you lower it back down and raise the tongue jack stand. Sometimes you have to raise it higher than other times, but you always end up putting the weight back on the hitch. I think he was saying he had to raise it so high during the spring bar install that it lifted the truck. He wouldn't be driving like that.
You are correct
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:21 PM   #9
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Yes I agree with both of you but lifting it that high, how do you really know that you got enough weight back on the rear wheels? So what I’m saying is that I get nervous about an attached trailer setup when I’m going so far that I feel like all the weight is off the rear to set the bars. I feel like that’s the point maybe other adjustments are needed on the hitch. Think about is all I’m saying.
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