Do you increase your tire pressure when towing?

[mwdilday]

You have to be careful going max sidewall pressure. Vehicle manufacturers specify tire pressures and loads and may not necessarily use rims that will handle higher pressures. I would not over-inflate tires very much over recommended pressures. Tire pressures are provided for the max weight for each axle so if your tire is not handling the weight at the manufacturer inflation pressures you are probably overloading the axle. Just my opinion.

[rsdata]

Vehicle manufacturers specify tire pressures and loads and may not necessarily use rims that will handle higher pressures.

I believe Lionshead supplies many if not most of the TT rims for FR TTrailers. Here is a quote I found on etrailer regarding tire pressures and rims.

The Lionshead Steel Modular Trailer Wheel, part # LHHA402, is rated for 80-psi the way it comes from the manufacturer.

Per my contact at Lionshead you can change out the valve stem and increase the psi rating up to 110-psi.

I doubt seriously, but cannot prove that automotive rims do not at least meet this same standard, especially NON-STEEL or one piece aluminum rims.

IMHO you can use an LT tire on a TV in place of possible stock P-rated tires and inflate to recommended on those tires which will be more than 35#

[007matman]

I think it makes sense to move up a bit. Like I said earlier, it's wearing on the tires unevenly so probably could use some more pressure. I might try splitting the difference at 40 to see how it goes.

Rims on the Esky are OEM. TT has a nice aluminum rim that were on the trailer when new.

We'll see. Thanks guys.

[mwdilday]

Originally Posted by 007matman

I think it makes sense to move up a bit. Like I said earlier, it's wearing on the tires unevenly so probably could use some more pressure. I might try splitting the difference at 40 to see how it goes.

Rims on the Esky are OEM. TT has a nice aluminum rim that were on the trailer when new.

We'll see. Thanks guys.

I would hit the scales and see if it is overloaded.

[007matman]

Max tow is 7800. There's six of us in the TV so I don't need to hit the scales to know I'm at my max.

[Blender]

Originally Posted by 007matman

I think it makes sense to move up a bit. Like I said earlier, it's wearing on the tires unevenly so probably could use some more pressure. I might try splitting the difference at 40 to see how it goes.

Rims on the Esky are OEM. TT has a nice aluminum rim that were on the trailer when new.

We'll see. Thanks guys.

Mattman i think your ok with max psi for the escalade, I too have owned one and an ext as well. Your good with max psi when cold, tho very important as when they get warm the PSI will increase based on stabilizing to climate.. now with the ext I had, I used nitrogen 100 percent meaning it only fluctuated plus or minus 3 or so pounds. With regular air from a pump it can vary up to 8-10 psi especially in 100 plus degree weather. It won't happen right away it's gradual but if it spikes quickly that's a different symptom waiting to happen. So 44 is good if they creep on your instrument cluster past 54 I would deflate five pounds. As when they cool they will go back down to 44.

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Blender

Mattman i think your ok with max psi for the escalade, I too have owned one and an ext as well. Your good with max psi when cold, tho very important as when they get warm the PSI will increase based on stabilizing to climate.. now with the ext I had, I used nitrogen 100 percent meaning it only fluctuated plus or minus 3 or so pounds. With regular air from a pump it can vary up to 8-10 psi especially in 100 plus degree weather. It won't happen right away it's gradual but if it spikes quickly that's a different symptom waiting to happen. So 44 is good if they creep on your instrument cluster past 54 I would deflate five pounds. As when they cool they will go back down to 44.

Thanks Blender!

Tires have nitrogen now but won't be able to go from 35-44 without needing to put in normal air to get there.

I'll give it a shot. Tires are only a year old so hate to see them wear out too quickly.

[elchilero53]

When we towed with our Tahoe, I always maxed the air pressure on the rear tires to 50 psi (max sidewall pressure) and bumped the front tires to 40 psi. Towed our trailer like a dream. When we arrived, I reset the tire pressure to door sticker pressures. We towed with P tires for years. Maxing the pressure stiffens the sidewalls quite a bit. Our new truck came with P tires but these are stiff. They have max pressure of 51 PSI so that is what they will get when we next tow (we've already missed two trips this year due to sickness and a jury summons). Hopefully we will get to do some towing in September with the new pick-up truck.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by 007matman

So.. inflate to max tire capacity when towing and the number in the jamb when not.. correct?

My read of the information is - inflate to the jamb number and increase if you feel the need when towing. No increase in load capacity by increasing the pressure, possible reduction in sidewall flex, possible over-inflation of tires. Possibly deflate the tires when not towing IF you know the actual weight of the vehicle (for a pickup truck) based on the inflation/load tables. NEVER go over the max inflation pressure listed on the tire.

FWIW, for my rig, I find running the jamb pressure gives a good tow. I have tried different pressures up to the max with no perceived difference. So I leave it at 35psi. I'm in a stock F-150 Platinum Screw w/ 6.5' bed, OEM 20" tires, Propride hitch. 20-30 mph side winds, wet roads, and passing semi's have not caused me any concerns.

YMMV

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Thanks Blender!

Tires have nitrogen now but won't be able to go from 35-44 without needing to put in normal air to get there.

I'll give it a shot. Tires are only a year old so hate to see them wear out too quickly.

I enjoy watching this Ausie talk about nitrogen in tires every so often. Beware - it does have some "colorful" language.
australian utube on nitrogen in tires - Bing video

[Blender]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Thanks Blender!

Tires have nitrogen now but won't be able to go from 35-44 without needing to put in normal air to get there.

I'll give it a shot. Tires are only a year old so hate to see them wear out too quickly.

Your so welcome!
You can mix air with the nitrogen instead of it increasing plus or minus 3psi it might be plus or minus 5psi

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by pibi

I go with the side max psi when towing.
44 psi is the max ( when cold )marked on the side and the f150 tows my rockwood 2703 like a dream.

Same here. I routinely air up the tires to the sidewall max and fill the Firestone Ride-Rites at the same time. When getting to the destination and will do normal driving, I do the reverse. Put the air bags back down to 10 psi, and the tires to 32 psi. We have gotten pretty even tread wear and decent ride.

[slapshot12]

When towing a heavy load, I always use the max air pressure on the tire for both my truck and the trailer.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

I enjoy watching this Ausie talk about nitrogen in tires every so often. Beware - it does have some "colorful" language.
australian utube on nitrogen in tires - Bing video

That was great!!! I have said this all along!!!

[TheWolfPaq82]

I run my trailer at the recommended max on sticker and the truck is 60 front 70 rear.
2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.6L diesel.

[Ree]

Originally Posted by 007matman

Wondering if any of you increase your tire pressure when towing.

I have a 2010 Escalade ESV that we are using to tow our 7400lb travel trailer from Georgia to South Dakota and back. I'm noticing that the tires are wearing on the edges more than normal and they've lost some of the sharpness to the edge of the tire.

I've seen a few posts where they say you should increase to max tire pressure rating but that seems high given outside temperatures. What do you all think? That would mean going from 35psi to 44psi. Most of the posts that I saw were referring to large trucks of 3/4 ton or more.

Tires are Bridgestone Dueller H/L Alenza Plus in P285-45-R22

You have to look at the whole picture if you want great tire wear.
First, you have to have a proper hitch setup where all of the weight is properly distributed over all the axles, tow vehicle and trailer. On the tow vehicle, without being hooked to the trailer and on level ground, measure the distance from the ground to the wheel well opening in line with the center of the tire. Record those numbers. After hooking up the trailer that is loaded for travel, and after a run around the parking lot or block, on level ground, take those measurements again. If your set up properly you will be within 1/4" + - of the first measurements. If your low in the back your most likely high in the front. That means to much load in the back and on those rear tires. If you have independent rear suspension it also means your rear alignment is changed, most likely running more on the inside edge. The same alignment problem happens when the front is to high or low. If you have a solid rear axle, you will have unnecessary load on the rear tires if the rear measurement is shorter. Get these measurements right and you'll have proper distribution of weight on the axles, correct alignment near perfect steering. Do not settle for good enough. Refer to your hitch manufacturer for setup and adjustment.

As a former tire dealer I will say this. At the loads we place on these tires you must run the tires at maximum pressure as specified on the tire sidewall. At that pressure the engineered load carrying capability of a tire is maximized, flex is reduced, temperature is reduced and full tread contact with the road is achieved. Flex and heat kills more tires than road hazards. Set the pressure with the tires cool as they would be before you head out on the road. Check the pressure often. If lower you have a leak. If slightly higher (5 - 7 psi) your okay as this is caused by heat buildup. Higher than that and you may have a tire coming apart, a brake dragging or a wheel bearing going bad. Check things out. I personally also use a Laser temp meter to monitor tire, axle, brake, wheel bearings and differential temps and I keep a record of those numbers. I know what a good average number should be and can spot trouble right away. A temp meter and tire pressure gauge are your best friends. If you do not see low or excessive higher pressure on your run and the temps fall within the norm, you've had a good day. The next day, before heading out or before you store your trailer, check those pressures again. It only takes a couple of minutes. Everything should be as you set it before you headed out. Remember, very slight tire pressure changes occur with change in temperature and altitude. Allow for that as well.

If you have good tires rated for your particular load, look for these signs. Tire wear on both outer edges is a tire under inflated. Tire wear in the middle of a tread is a tire over inflated. Tire wear on one edge is an alignment problem. Cupping on an edge is a alignment problem. Excessive tire wear in one spot, usually the size of your hand, is a tread separation problem. Put the spare on that location right away. A tread separation is dangerous. Deflate that separated tire if you can before removing. Tread separation may also show up as a bulge or bubble in the tread or sidewall. This condition also may show up as a tire that vibrates or bounces because it is no longer round.

DO NOT run into curbs, rocks, post etc. with your tire sidewall. That is the weakest part of a tire. If you hit something, check the tires out ASAP. Good tires, proper maintenance and monitoring will keep you rolling and you'll probably avoid that giant repair bill you get when the exploding tire takes out your wheel well, wires and hoses, maybe the axle and the side of your trailer.

Good Traveling ..............

Now if they could just fix I-10 in Louisiana....................................

[john5646]

I go to max psi rated on tire when towing. I'm currently p rated.
There is a great deal of research perform to establish this pressure rating. Typically you will not have any issues doing this, except possibly some premature tire wear. I choose The benefits of a stiffer side wall with increased air pressure as opposed to tire wear.

[mj0528]

Question - I had one tire replaced and couldn't remember what load rating the other tires were when I took the wheel in. The replaced with an E rated tire when I have D on the other 3. What should the load rated E tire be at? Max?

This was on the TT not the truck

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by wardster

I get caught up reading the back on forth on this topic and get too scared. My door sticker and onboard TPMS say my tires should be at 35 PSI. My sidewall says 51 Max PSI. That is a big difference!!!!! I go with the sticker. That's just me though....

I have the same truck as you, 2015 F150 King Ranch with the offroad package. When I tow I run my pressure up to 48 psi because my goodyear wrangler tires have a max psi of 51. The 35 psi they tell you on the door sticker is for regular driving and rated low to give a better ride. The more air the stiffer the tire and much better for towing. The problem with these aluminum trucks is they are lighter in weight and they took out a leaf spring on both sides compared to the steel trucks to give a better ride, this has caused the newer trucks to wallow more on the road under load.

[rsdata]

Question - I had one tire replaced and couldn't remember what load rating the other tires were when I took the wheel in. The replaced with an E rated tire when I have D on the other 3. What should the load rated E tire be at? Max?

I would run at same pressure as your D rated, so all are at the same pressure... and then be looking to upgrade the other 3 to E rated in the future... YOU SHOULD HAVE metal stems installed on your wheels when at E rating...

IF you are happy with your D rated tires, then use the E rated one for spare and get a new D rated to match your others.