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Old 10-04-2013, 07:28 PM   #41
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CW only had 1 bar remaining, a right hand. Bought it and will install tomorrow.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:25 PM   #42
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Install was simple. Look forward to trying it out this Thursday when we head out.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:52 PM   #43
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Install was simple. Look forward to trying it out this Thursday when we head out.
Tighten both sides down TIGHT! If they don't make some noise when you turn, they are not tight enough. You may have to tighten the bolt opposite the tightening handle a turn. If you do, loosen the handle and then tighten the bolt and then re-tighten the handle. One a couple of mine, I had to take the bolt out and grind the nut down to be able to tighten the bolt a little more.
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:36 PM   #44
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Dual Friction Sway

Anyone looking for a sway control, check out this link. I purchased 2 of these for my unit. $31.10 with all the hardware needed. Great company to work with. Frank

Curt Manufacturing 17200 Sway Control Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:42 PM   #45
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Trailer Sway Control Kit

Better buy, sway bar made just like more expensive ones.
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:23 PM   #46
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Tighten both sides down TIGHT! If they don't make some noise when you turn, they are not tight enough. You may have to tighten the bolt opposite the tightening handle a turn. If you do, loosen the handle and then tighten the bolt and then re-tighten the handle. One a couple of mine, I had to take the bolt out and grind the nut down to be able to tighten the bolt a little more.

Thanks. Yeah, the first one grunts and groans like a old defensive lineman.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:49 PM   #47
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I've been using two sway controls since 2006 when I went from a 5,000# to a 6,000# TT. Read on another forum that when you go 6,000# or above it is recommended to use the second bar. I like many others just used a RH and flipped the inside bar over to make it LH. Works great. and like they said get it as tight as possible. And when you back up, just loosen it up and you will be fine.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:36 PM   #48
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Right now I'm working on putting a 2nd sway bar on my Vlite. Still had one that I had used for the first 13 years and had replaced. Just have to pull the bar out and flip it over. The writing on the side of the lever part will be upside down but I don't (really) care. A new(left handed) one will have to go on the wish list. I'll see how that works and then look at the AirTabs. I've personally never seen them except the picture OC provided.
Got back a week or so ago from a 1,000+ round trip with the "new" sway bar on the street side of the hitch. I still get some pull/push when trucks pass me but not to the extreme I was getting. I feel like the TT tracks better and there is NO tail wag that I was getting before. I think the truck likes it too because I didn't sense that it was working as hard as it was. And I am not as tired because I don't feel like I was driving a team of mules! Should have done this way before now! I still think a new sway bar would make a great Christmas gift, for me.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:59 PM   #49
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When attaching the ball plate to the trailer frame, better to weld it on or bolt it on these lightweight frames?
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #50
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When attaching the ball plate to the trailer frame, better to weld it on or bolt it on these lightweight frames?
I bolted both of mine on and then just tack welded each one in two places to keep them from loosening.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:03 PM   #51
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Sway Controller and backing up?

Instructions from RV techs that I've dealt with, say not to back up with sway controller in place....it would damage it....to take it off!!!!! I asked if I could unloosen it, they said no.

Any thoughts.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:06 PM   #52
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When attaching the ball plate to the trailer frame, better to weld it on or bolt it on these lightweight frames?
The dealer had the plate for the curbside mounted with the screws(6). I just drilled (6) holes for the other side for the self tapping screws and tightened them up with a socket wrench. Fairly easy for me(I'm not mechanically inclined) took about 30 minutes! I guess it can be welded but you better know what you are doing with it(good weld).
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #53
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Instructions from RV techs that I've dealt with, say not to back up with sway controller in place....it would damage it....to take it off!!!!! I asked if I could unloosen it, they said no.

Any thoughts.
I always back with mine in place, but first is what is the concern? I believe it has to do with turning radius and if you turn too sharp while backing you could jam the stablizer into the TT tongue to me it's no difference than turning too sharp going forward (basicly don't do it). I did turning trials with mine installed and determined I would have go to full jacknife position to jam anything forward or reverse so I am not concerned with leaving them in place or having a problem as long as the small balls on the sway units aren't being over pressured.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:32 PM   #54
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Instructions from RV techs that I've dealt with, say not to back up with sway controller in place....it would damage it....to take it off!!!!! I asked if I could unloosen it, they said no.

Any thoughts.
Never had a problem backing up with them. You just can't make tight turns backing up with them tightened. Unhooked them a couple of times since I started using them in 1976.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:55 PM   #55
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Never have taken mine off when backing. Never been in a jackknife situation. I could see where that could be a problem. I have loosened mine when I pulled into a park because on that particular day, I had heard enough of the grunting/groaning. But on my last trip, the sway bar(s) didn't cut up too much or I may be losing some of my hearing. Huh, what? I had them tight if not tighter than I usually do.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:00 PM   #56
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Sorry to revive a quite thread but about how many turns on the lever would work for a 4400lb 29ft. My worry is ill over tighten it and possibly break off a ball.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #57
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Tighten it as much as you can by hand without standing on it, then back off about a 1/5 turn. If you need it tighter than that, you might need some sort of other sway control. If it grunts and pops when you are turning, it might be too tight. A little grunting and groaning is what you want. The BOSS says I am too sensitive to noises, it just gets on my nerves. But you have to know the difference between a good noise and a bad noise. As far as how much to tighten, you have to find that "sweet spot".
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Old 01-11-2014, 02:33 PM   #58
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Check out the blue ox sway control hitch , it looks awesome , the only trouble i had with the equalizer 4 point is the noise factor when turning and backing up , it was so loud it was embarrassing , and we thought something had broke .

but that is just my .02 worth

keep on camping
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Old 01-11-2014, 03:59 PM   #59
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Man I'm glad I read this thread. Our TT is 34' and 6800 lbs dry and I've experienced some pretty nasty sway at times.

The dealer we purchased the trailer from are steering me away from sway control primarily due to turning radius issues and the damage that can be caused from binding. However after reading this thread I think I should be looking in to some kind of sway control.
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Old 01-11-2014, 04:18 PM   #60
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Man I'm glad I read this thread. Our TT is 34' and 6800 lbs dry and I've experienced some pretty nasty sway at times.

The dealer we purchased the trailer from are steering me away from sway control primarily due to turning radius issues and the damage that can be caused from binding. However after reading this thread I think I should be looking in to some kind of sway control.
Be sure and check out the blue ox sway control , that is what i would have gotten if we had kept the TT , but we decided to go back to the 5th wheel it just pulls so much better for me.

keep on camping
Oak
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