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Old 03-31-2013, 11:52 AM   #41
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Yup...just went through a similar experience but managed (it was difficult) not to buy until things were worked out. Ended up buying (upgrading) the truck...then the RV. It was much more a pleasure to "go shopping" not caring what the pin weight would be! IMHO yes, you can tow but you are maxed out. All prior responses were of value BTW...especially about the weighing. My biggest concern would be the length...it's gonna do a dance even with the best hitch and attributes. There are also other add ons you can get to help the springs. They won't change facts but may help to keep front end down a bit. Was about to do the mods on my 150 when reality struck and just threw in the towel and got the 350. Ended up with a 5th with 2400# + pin weight. Glad I decided to do the truck! Hope you can work things out!
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:02 PM   #42
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Thanks so much I reall feel very dumb right now, never in my life would I have thought of all this. You guys have been a great help.

Do not feel dumb. You have done the right thing by asking and getting all the info.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:05 PM   #43
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Yes but I should have asked someone other than the RV dealer before I bought.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:06 PM   #44
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I personally blame the salesman for being misleading so he can get a bigger commission.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:33 PM   #45
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What is the name of the dealership so others in NB can avoid the same situation you are in. This dealership sound just like Leisure Days RV in Ontario.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:42 PM   #46
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RV World Fredericton
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:06 PM   #47
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Unless your axle ratio is the 3.15 or 3.31, I say your good.....

I've seen the Eco-boost trucks and what they can haul. You have GVWR of the trailer covered, as long as you have the 3.55 or better gearing.

Use a good WDH and sway control, and enjoy your camping....
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:22 PM   #48
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What weights should I get? Front wheels, Rear wheels of truck with load and total package including trailer. Not really sure at this point.

Ideally, you should do 3 weigh-ins. Most CAT scales just charge $1 or so for reweighs.

Without changing any cargo or passenger seat arrangement, and 1 axle (consider the 2 trailer axles as 1) completely on a different section of scales:

1 weight with the truck and trailer with the spring bars in place.

1 weight with the truck and trailer without the spring bars in place.

1 weight with just the truck without the trailer. Again, leave passengers and cargo just like they were with the previous weigh-ins.

The weight of the 2 truck axles with the trailer hooked up without the spring bars in place minus the weight of the 2 truck axles without the trailer will give you true tongue weight.

The front axle of the truck with the trailer hooked up and spring bars in place should be equal to or very close to the weight of the truck without the trailer.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:27 PM   #49
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Another thing to consider towing the camper with that truck is to make sure the hitch is up to the task. Many times, a truck manufacturer will rate the weight distributing tongue weight at 10% of the total hitch weight distributing capacity. If the hitch is only rated for the maximum tow rating, that might only be a 810 lb. weight distributing tongue rate number. With that trailer, you would probably need a 1100 lb. weight distributing tongue weight number.

There should be a sticker on the hitch that states the weight ratings.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:37 PM   #50
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Now its hitch ratings boy what else could I screw up, and I thought a class IV hitch is a class IV. All I can say guys if you see a Gray 2012 F150 doing 50MPH in a 70MPH zone it's me stay clear.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:40 PM   #51
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Uncle

What part of the contry do you live in?
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:45 PM   #52
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Now its hitch ratings boy what else could I screw up, and I thought a class IV hitch is a class IV. All I can say guys if you see a Gray 2012 F150 doing 50MPH in a 70MPH zone it's me stay clear.
I am not saying that your receiver hitch is not up to the task, but it just needs to be checked out to be sure. Hopefully, they put the same hitch on all of the trucks, and some 2012 F150s can tow up to 11,300 lbs.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:06 PM   #53
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I wouldn't get too worked up about this. You will be right at your towing limit with the truck, both at tow rating and GVWR. As long as you don't exceed you rear axle rating I don't see what the problem is. LT tires will be a good move. I would certainly try it before trading it.
I would definitely go with the LT tires and go with it. I've towed over 5,000 miles with my rig and according to the wt police, I am grossly overloaded for my 1500 Chevy. I tow max speed of 65 and 99% of the time@ 60. The only possible problem would be rear axle brgs on the truck, but I carried a 1500# popup camper on a 72 El Camino over 70,000 miles and a 1400# similar camper on an 81 El Camino over 100,000 miles and never had a problem. Am I taking a risk, maybe, but replacing wheel brgs is a lot cheaper than a new $40,000 3/4 t. The wt of a 3/4 t over the 1/2 t might be a little more, maybe 1000# max, but as far as stability of the truck, don't think anyone could tell the difference. Towing capability, no doubt the 3/4t would tow it faster and easier, but @ 60mph, I am very comfortable and don't drag race with it anyway. Just not in that big of a hurry
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:33 PM   #54
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I really don't think you will have an issue. I have a TT with almost identical dimensions and I had no issues towing it with 2006 F150 4X4 Supercab with the 5.4. The only reason I got rid of it was because my loaded tongue weight was around 1200 lbs, way over my 990 lb limit for the F150. You'll be close on your limits, but your ECO is way more truck than my F150 was.

I'd recommend the Equalizer brand hitch. Everyone on here seems very happy with them. I have the Reese dual cam, I just can't recommend them anymore since they're moving their manufacturing to Mexico.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:56 PM   #55
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I wish I had stopped to take pictures of that RV that had rolled and was destroyed all over the side of the road back in Arizona some years ago. I don't know much about it except that they were coming down a long steep grade.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:13 PM   #56
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Saw one north of Salt Lake City going toward the Tetons in 74 that rolled the trailer and the station wagon pulling it. The only thing left was the floor on the frame of the trailer and heavily damaged station wagon. 2 adults and 2 kids somehow walked away from it with only scratches. Have no idea what caused it. We were going south to SLC in our 72 El Camino. Top pic is as purchased used and bottom two were after we modified it.

Sorry to hijack the thread.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:06 PM   #57
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We have maxed out our TV before but 1) we didn't go far at all and 2) we drove flat, less traveled roads and we took our time. It did make one decision for us ~ it stressed the truck so that we pretty much had to replace it....

Main issue is safety which you already get ~ Hoping you get to enjoy your TT this coming season. Any family or close friends with a TV set up that you could use ~ or invite them to join you??? With 33', the more the merrier
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:49 PM   #58
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that's one big RV thing they sold you there

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Who told you that you could pull the trailer? If they told you you can tow the trailer, then they screwed up.

Do you have a witness that can verify that the dealer/salesman told you it was ok?

I second that
if there is any way to bail out safely
now is the time to re-group

((( that is one big trailer they sold you )))

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:24 PM   #59
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If they are the dealership between Fredericton and Gagetown I can see why the salesman told you that your truck was up to the task. This dealership is what I call a hard sell dealership. I do believe they are affiliated with the same group from Ontario.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:25 PM   #60
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Uncle

What part of the contry do you live in?
Right now we are in Woodstock NB. No really steep grades. My home is in FL but the RV will be staying in Canada.
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