Dummy bought RV to big for truck

[uncle46]

I should have done my research first, now I’ve got problems. I have the 2012 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 super crew 5 ½ ft box EB with tow package 1. !st rule broken I brought it to the RV dealer and asked to see RV’s that I can safely tow. Now I believe we have a Truck and RV that don’t match up. This is the sticker that was on the RV itself.


This is the sticker from my Truck

I haven’t taken Delivery of the RV yet but it sure looks like I am going to be way overloaded. What can I do at this point short of getting a different TV to make my truck and RV safer. I’m mainly concerned with the out of proportion Tongue weight.

[anthonyshaw]

A lot will depend on what motor you have as well. Here is a listing of towing capacities (check the last page and x-reference your options)

http://media.ford.com/images/10031/2012_F150_Specs.pdf

I'm thinking you might be alright, but close in payload (see this post for more on that: Payload Calculation Realities - Page 3 - Forest River Forums)

[anthonyshaw]

I would also suggest a load leveling/weight distribution hitch, if your dealer didn't already

[Dave_Monica]

The best way to determine where you are as far as payload capacity is to weigh the truck, full fuel, passengers and gear, ready to camp. Deduct that number from your GVWR of the truck which is 7200 lbs. I'd suspect that your truck weight will be around 6200 lbs depending on # of passengers, gears and after-market add ons (tonneau cover, step bars, etc). I'd expect the loaded camper weight to be around 7500 lbs and you'd want a tongue weight of 13% or 975 lbs. Sounds like you'll be maxed out on payload...real truck weights will help eliminate the guesswork.

Dave

[uncle46]

I have the Eco Boost motor.

[uncle46]

Yes the dealer did include that. Not sure of the Brand but I know that I am already looking at an Anderson. To replace the dealers hitch.

[anthonyshaw]

Originally Posted by uncle46

I have the Eco Boost motor.

rear end gear ratio?

[BarryD0706]

It's great that you noticed the problem before any disaster happened. It sounds like you already know what your options are:
1) Different Truck
2) Smaller RV.
I would go with #1 because that truck has a very low tow capacity. Besides, it won't be long until you're ready for a larger RV (happens to all of us) and then you'll need that bigger trick for sure.

A 1-ton diesel would cover you nicely.

[38FLCamper]

As much as the weight is an issue, your drive down the road with a 33' TT behind a short bed F150 is going to be a white knuckle ride at times. I think you will be ok to tow down the road once in a while, but making your existing truck "safe" to tow that trailer is going to be a impossible task. Maybe find a seasonal site for this year, and buy a new TV next year if the $$ is not in the books for this year.

Good luck with your decisions and be safe with your new TT. Safe Travels.

[uncle46]

I'm not relly sure but looking at the charts I would say 3.55 I will have to check with the Ford Dealer here in Woodstock, NB.

[wyo700]

With the right WDH and loading properly you could probably get your numbers where they need to be. My only concerns would be that you will have 33 feet of camper hanging off the back of your half ton. Is it to late to choose a different camper.

[acadianbob]

The motor is not going to save you. It's all about payload. Check out the post on Payload Capacity Realities. Do your own calculations.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ies-36904.html

[uncle46]

I believe so we closed on it. Started out just wanting a small RV. Oh well live and learn.

[Dave_Monica]

The axle code of 27 on your door sticker identifies a 3.31 rear ratio. Looking up in the Trailer Life towing guide for your truck says a max tow of 8100 lbs.

Dave

[RetirededTX]

I started with an 1995 F150, 302 V8, auto 4spd, and a FR Flagstaff 27' TT. I've got no idea what the Tow Package 1 is rated at on yours, but I had a class 4 hitch (12K#) installed on mine and then used an weight distribution hitch (like: Weight Distribution - Reese) and a Reese anti-sway friction bar. The equalizer hitch actually takes some of the weight off of the hitch and throws it onto the front suspension. You should be able to find a chart that tells the load change. The really nice thing about the equalizer was when going down the road an hitting a bump, instead of the rear of the truck diving into the ground, the whole truck just dipped as it absorbed the trailer tongue weight from the bounce. I used the friction type anti-sway bar, but the new units can have that function built in (more research 4U). Some good info is available at: Common Weight Distribution and Sway Control Questions | etrailer.com. My source said a Class 4 hitch can carry 10,000 pounds and 1,000 pounds of tongue weight with a weight carrying hitch, or up to 12,000 and 1,200 pounds with a weight distributing hitch. Hope this helps.

BTW: Hope you’ve got more hp than I did, found that freeway with gentle climb and any headwind slowed me to 50mph and had to go down to 3rd gear. Eventually install KB supercharger and 2 Speed Gear Vendor-Gear Splitter (=8 Speed).

[uncle46]

Thanks for that info. I know for sure that I will be putting new tires on the TV getting rid of the P275-65-18 and going to LT275-65-18, I'm sure that will help with the sway.

[uncle46]

Boy I've got white knuckles already and haven't pick the darn thing up yet..

[BigBaron]

Looks like a 3.5 eco-boost engine from the sticker without the max tow package. With the max tow package you get a GVWR of 7,900 lbs., a towing capacity of 11,200 lbs. and a payload max of 1,900 lbs.

I found these links...

F150 options

RV Net F150 thread

The tow package code is 535, and the axle would be a "26". You have a 27, which is most likely a 3.55 ratio.

I get from reading the big thread that a 3.55 won't be good... But then again, I don't have a big truck and trailer. I hope I'm wrong!

[BigBaron]

Wow! A lot of replies while I was typing and looking!

[uncle46]

No I believe you are right this isn't going to be pretty.