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04-12-2013, 06:28 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: tampa
Posts: 126
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Equal-i-zer Hitch Question
I have a Equal-i-zer hitch that came with the rv i just bought. I use the electric jack to make it easy to get the levers in place, but i'm worried about burning up the motor over time. How much can you "lift" the bars into place without killing yourself ? same with taking them off, do you have to jack the hitch up so high the weight is completely taken off the levers to remove them ? thanks
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04-12-2013, 06:48 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: N.W. Illinois
Posts: 312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melk-man
i have the same one, it came with the rv i just bought. I use the electric jack to make it easy to get the levers in place, but i'm worried about burning up the motor over time. How much can you "lift" the bars into place without killing yourself ? same with taking them off, do you have to jack the hitch up so high the weight is completely taken off the levers to remove them ? thanks
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When I used mine on my TT.I had a lifted truck.I went to a local parking lot that was level .I had a cd From Equalizer to get the right perfection.
You have to use the correct amount of washers that comes with it.
It was easy then .I had a manual hitch crank and I could push on the bars with a little effort .Never had a issue.
They do sell a lift bar to help it get into place .But never needed it..I am sure a crow bar works good
I hope this may help you .You can pm me and I will help you out if needed.
__________________
2007.5 Chevy 3500Ltz cc lb Duramax
2010 Sandpiper 345 RET (SOLD)
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04-12-2013, 07:07 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: tampa
Posts: 126
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ah, ok. With this model having extra washers in there puts more pressure on the bars, but is making it so you have to really jack it up to get them in place. The hitch is already pointing down a little bit, so removing 1 more washer will be just right, and make it much easier to get the bars in place. yes, i have the bar that came with it..
thanks
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04-12-2013, 10:49 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,327
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You use the number of washers to set the hitchhead to get the required amount of weight transfer from the TV's rear axle to it's front axle and camper axles.
When we had the TT, I used the tongue jack all the time to raise the tongue and rear of the TV high enough to easily place/remove the bars and it was a Lippert jack. They're made with enough lifting force to do the job.
Dave
__________________
Nights camped in 2013 - 55, 2014 - 105, 2015 - 63
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04-12-2013, 11:02 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
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I'm with Dave on this one. You use washers to adjust the tilt, which will help to adjust the hitch's distribution.
Do not take away the washers to make it easier to remove your spring bars. Assuming you have a correct adjustment for your TV/TT, you will need to either lift the frame via the jack or using the special pry bar from Equal-I-zer or a combo of each to remove enough pressure so that you can move the spring bars.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
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04-12-2013, 11:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: tampa
Posts: 126
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ok, i get it now.. removing washers will obviously make it easier to get the bars on, but won't distribute weight as intended.
Presently i have to really lift both the tt and the tv up to get the bars on. I will likely keep it this way but didn't want to strain the electric jack.
I have another system/make of load leveling for my 24' cargo trailer. It has hinges with about 10 chain links. Presently, i set the hook on the 6th chain link, then snap the hinge into place with a 2' section of pipe that fits on a finger welded to the hinge. It seems easier.. but maybe was more expensive ? This system has a separate anti-sway bar that hooks on 1 ball to the hitch, and another ball that is on the trailer tongue. You then tighten the lever around and around to clamp down on the sway bar, it's like a steering damper device and keeps the rig rolling down the road straight.
This 4-point system is just a bit different but appears to do the same thing with fewer parts.
thanks
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04-12-2013, 11:38 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
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You've got it
The main differences between your old hitch and the Equal-I-zer is that the Equal-I-zer has four points of sway control, fewer parts, and you can back up with the hitch engaged, which you probably couldn't do with the old hitch (I'm guessing).
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
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04-13-2013, 10:33 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,137
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__________________
FOR SALE 2014 BOSS 6.2L F350
2012 Surveyor SV264
NW Oregon
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04-16-2013, 09:11 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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When I'm engaging, if I have it jacked up enough to get a bar started on the L-bracket, I usually only takes a light push with my foot to get it home. When releasing, if I pull on it, and it pulls off, great. I won't go back to cranking just to be sure it's not touching at all. I'm cranking by hand, so I see it differently. But either way, you are needing to lift. If you have an electric jack, use it man!!
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thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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04-16-2013, 09:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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If/when I get an electric lift, it would be that Husky. Looks like a lot of bang-for-the-buck.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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