Equal-i-zer hitch setup

[cobrageek]

I have a 1000lb Equal-i-zer setup between a max 6000lb trailer with ~600lb tongue weight and my expedition. I'm following the directions and I'm trying to get it setup for the correct amount of weight distribution. Here are the latest measurements:

 
         Front   Rear
Nothing   34.75   34
NoWD      35.5   32.75
WD        35      33

The instructions say to make sure the rear isn't any higher with the WD engaged than without and that's true. The also say that with the WD the front should move over half way back to where it was with nothing than with no WD, but not past where it is without the trailer.

My current setup meets both of these criteria, but just standing back and looking at the truck it feels like it needs more WD because there is a 2" difference between the front and the back.

So do you think I should try adding one more washer and see if that helps without going past the stated limites (front can't go down more than another 1/4")? I did a test tow (back in for warranty work) and it felt OK, but it looks a bit funny. Thanks.

[wyo700]

I would say put in another washer. One more washer will move the end of yours bars down one inch. And if you were setting up unloaded the extra washer may be needed for extra weight.

[Grizzlygibbs]

How does it look a little funny? Pictures are usually worth a thousand words. I just set up my rig with the same system as yours but I have a 08 tundra Crewmax and a 233s. Got the numbers within a 3/4 of an inch lower and 1/8 of an inch by the front without the weight. I have some more numbers to crunch. I am totally new at setting up these hitches, but hear that a little squat in the rear is ok.

Good luck getting it fine tuned. I will be getting mine finalized soon too!

[21C1]

Doesn't the manual say the front should go down at LEAST half the difference between the two front measurements? It doesn't say the front can't be lower than the original measurement? Try a washer and take it to a set of scales. I doubt you'll ever get too much weight on the front. I have a 14,000 hitch with as many washers as it will take. I could still shift a little weight to my front axle.

[cobrageek]

I added a 5th washer to the head and should be picking up the trailer in the next day or two from some warranty work. I'll do a bunch of measurements when I pick it up and let you know how it looks. I'm hoping this is better, but it may be too much. We'll see. Thanks for the advice.

[thebrakeman]

Historically, the goal has been to have the front at least back to original ("nothing") height, but not to go so much that you exceed the front axle GAWR. This was on the WDH kits themselves (and still is!!), while the OEM truck manuals said little to nothing about such specifics. Now, since 1/2-ton trucks are getting higher tow ratings, the OEMs are covering themselves, by recommending to get somewhere in-between.

The reality is that the best situation is to be back to stock front height (weight), which will ensure proper handling. The OEM just doesn't want you mistakenly overloading.

Add another washer, shooting for stock front height (your "nothing" height). After you load the trailer, you might find you need another washer.

[cobrageek]

Thanks Brakeman. That matches more what I was thinking.

I picked up my trailer tonight from the shop and I had the 5th washer in place. Here are the new measurements:

         Front   Rear
Nothing   34.75   34
NoWD      35.5    32.5
WD        34.75   33.5

That looks perfect to me. The front is back to exactly where it is without the trailer and the rear is 2/3rds of the way back to where it was with nothing. It drove better this time too. I could still tell that the springs were toward the end of their "progressive region", but that is just the effect of having a load and it felt like a much better balance. Looked much better to the eye too.

I'll take another set of measurements when we have it loaded up for a trip, but the fresh water tank is behind the axles and we normally have that 1/3 full or so which will offset some of the other loading on the tongue.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think we have it adjusted perfectly now.

[steeleshark2]

Originally Posted by cobrageek

Thanks Brakeman. That matches more what I was thinking.

I picked up my trailer tonight from the shop and I had the 5th washer in place. Here are the new measurements:

         Front   Rear
Nothing   34.75   34
NoWD      35.5    32.5
WD        34.75   33.5

That looks perfect to me. The front is back to exactly where it is without the trailer and the rear is 2/3rds of the way back to where it was with nothing. It drove better this time too. I could still tell that the springs were toward the end of their "progressive region", but that is just the effect of having a load and it felt like a much better balance. Looked much better to the eye too.

I'll take another set of measurements when we have it loaded up for a trip, but the fresh water tank is behind the axles and we normally have that 1/3 full or so which will offset some of the other loading on the tongue.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think we have it adjusted perfectly now.

Nice numbers!

[cobrageek]

I took more measurements with everything loaded for a trip this past weekend and it still looked good. The front got back to exactly what it was without the trailer. The back was an extra 1/4" lower due to the extra stuff, but I think it was just right still. Thanks for the tips.

The bars started making a horrible racket after a bit of towing today (on tight turns) even with the sway bracket jackets and I think it's because it wore away the paint on the bars and sides of the "L" brackets. I assume this is normal and it will get a little better as things wear in. (I hope)

[backin15]

The noise is quite normal. A little grease on the L brackets will help but gets a bit messy. They make pads which slip over the brackets to quiet things down: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/...products_id=66

[cobrageek]

Thanks backin. I have a set of the bracket jackets and I assume they are helping, but I never tried it without so I guess I don't know for sure. It mostly just seemed odd that it started making more noise after a few trips than it did on the first ones. I thought maybe something had broken, but everything seemed fine. The only thing I noticed is that the paint is now fully scraped off in places and maybe that changed the noise level and type. It now causes a "chattering/scraping" noise which it didn't at the start. With the plastic pads it seems that it is only the bars rubbing on the sides as the plastic "jackets" protect the main lower resting area. It's probably just fine so I'll ignore it.

[avolnek]

Don't ever apply grease to the saddle brackets! That is what is giving you the anti sway control and greasing that will defeat the purpose! I apply grease to the front and top of the ball and where the torsion bars enter the head unit and that is it! To be set up correctly the bars need to be parallel with the frame of the trailer. If the bars are not parallel with the frame then they will contact the saddle brackets with the maximum surface area and generally is the culprit to the chattering. To adjust this you should be able to move the saddle bracket up or down to level the bars with the frame... Pictures of your set up would help diagnose tremendously!

[cobrageek]

Well, I went to put the hitch back on today and I think I found at least partially the source of the chattering noise.

It's hard to get perspective, but this is on the underneath side of the main "saddle" piece where sockets for the spring bars turn. You can see the line of grease where the "sweep" of the spring bar socket turns and then this big "gouge" in the metal.

It looks to me like there was some piece of gravel or something that got jammed in there and then gouged up the metal as we turned a tight corner going up a hill or something. I suppose it could be just the corner of the spring bar socket thing, but I really don't think so. Especially considering that there are two gouge marks like it had shifted at some point.

I added grease to this area and went ahead and towed the trailer around a bit and it seemed to do just fine and didn't make that chattering noise at all (like I would've expected if it was just a piece of gravel that was no longer there). Somewhere along the way it knocked the built up lump of gouged up metal off but of course the gouge is still there.

Everything seemed to work great, but I'm wondering if the integrity of the unit is compromised at all. The gouge is probably 0.5mm deep or so, but doesn't seems like it's in a key location. Anyone think there's a risk if I just keep using it? (setting up for a big road trip soon).

[lbrjet]

I don't think the integrity of the unit is compromised. I think gravel would pulverize, not gouge steel like that. That whole area is supposed to be lubricated by the way.

[cobrageek]

I heard back from the company and they said effectively the same thing. Looks like something got stuck in there, but it looks like it should be fine to keep using. Just keep it free of dirt/muck and well lubed. I'll make sure to lube this on a regular basis. Thanks.

[rschoono289]

I had similar gouge in the "saddle" on one side but don't think this is due to grit/muck. The cause is (likely) making a sharp turn and having one side of the TV front tires go thru a depression (say partly into a ditch). The "saddle" rotates with the TV but the spring arms cant and the pins of spring arm gouge the "saddle". Mine is an E2 and mfg replaced the head (saddle) no cost to me. I agree make sure saddle is lubricated but more importantly watch for those tight turns on uneven ground.

[cobrageek]

Interesting theory Roy. I wondered about that. When you say that the "Pins" of the spring arm gouge the saddle, what exactly do you mean by "pins"? Are you talking about the silver pins that hold the bars into the socket pieces? Or the cotter pin like things that hold those pins from sliding back out? I can't really picture how either of these things would get up to the point of gouging into the saddle but maybe I just don't udnerstand exactly what you mean. I'll have to stare at it a bit tonight and see if I can understand what you mean. Thanks!

[rschoono289]

At the end of the spring bar that goes into the head there are two pins (my documentation doesn't provide good picture of that end). You rest one pin in the bottom of the head and rotate so top pin fits in the top of the head. Think your calling the head a "saddle". If there is too much rotation of the TV to the trailer it puts force on the top pin and this must have enough force to gouge the upper head. Progress Mfg asked me to send my head back to their engineering dept to look at the damage. Replaced it with new head. I'll look for my pictures of the gouge and put on forum for you to compare.

[cobrageek]

Thanks Roy. A picture would help. I guess I'm not getting your "pin" description. In my setup the only thing I would call a pin is the pin that holds the spring bar into the head socket (the socket is the "hinged" part). This is the pin I'm talking about:
Socket Pin and Clip : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

Is this the same pin you have in mind? This is tight in the hinged socket piece so I don't see how it can twist enough to scrape the head. But probably a picture would help.

[itat]

rschoono289 has an e2 hitch. If you have the standard (original) Equal-i-zer hitch, you have different models.

Here is a video that shows the differences.

Equalizer Towing Weight Distribution Systems E2 and E4 Presented by Pete's RV Center - YouTube