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Old 01-18-2015, 07:14 AM   #11
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Equalizer 4 Point Setup

I own a 2003 29QBSS and use the Equalizer 4 Point system. The bars should be level. To get unhooked put a lot of blocking under the tongue jack because you are going to have to lift the trailer and back end of tow vehicle high enough to get the weight off the bars to remove the bars from the L brackets. I would reinstall the Equalizer system yourself just follow the directions on the Equalizer website. You may have to turn your hitch bar up to get more rise from the tow vehicle position.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by brbarrell View Post
To get unhooked put a lot of blocking under the tongue jack because you are going to have to lift the trailer and back end of tow vehicle high enough to get the weight off the bars to remove the bars from the L brackets.
This was the part I was waiting for someone to say. When I had my Eq 4-point, I had to use the electric tongue jack and lift the entire shebang enough so that the back of the truck would come up, not just the front of the trailer. My bars were level, too. Once I got it up that far, the bars would just slide out with little effort. Then lower to unlock the coupler, then raise again to get the coupler off the ball. X2 on reinstalling it to get the bars level. Good luck.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by brbarrell View Post
You may have to turn your hitch bar up to get more rise from the tow vehicle position.
Bars should be level to the frame or pointed down slightly in towing position towards the camper.
Adding more washers to the hitch head if you need more lift. Or in other words turning the hitch head down.

On another note: I like painting my "L brackets and spring bar" contact point with a product called "mower guard"
Its a graphite paint and will embed its self into the metal over time. The metal will develop a black sheen over time.( Re-spray as necessary )
No messy lubes, less noise and can use the new Snap L-pin
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:49 PM   #14
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First off, thank you all for your feedback. Second, sorry for not explaining better. I was on my phone.

I was using my powered tongue jack to lift the camper. The site itself wasn't level (3 blocks on one side) so it made it that much harder to remove the bars. This is my second camper using the Equilizer and my previous camper was easy. This one is taller so there is already that height difference and the shank was adjusted. But the dealer didn't set the bars parallel. They had the L brackets higher than the bar connections to the hitch itself. This, along with a non-level site, made things really difficult.

I looked at the instructions and made some slight adjustments before I left but I will certainly be tweaking things some more (washers and L-bracket adjustments) to shore everything up.
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:18 PM   #15
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Plato, thanks for the tip. I spray paint mine and it rubs right off again. Will pick up a can next time I'm at NAPA.


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Old 01-20-2015, 02:35 PM   #16
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It took me a few miles to get it dialed in just right but, I really am impressed with my Equalizer setup it does really well compared to my last setup.

As others have said, you'll want it to be level and it's a simple adjustment to make.

X2 on the thanks for the tip PLATO, I'll be picking up a can of that as well.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:42 PM   #17
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Why are you painting parts on your Equalizer 4pt hitch? I just had the equalizer 4 pt hitch installed on my truck/trailer and was curios
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:21 PM   #18
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Over time when the metal rubs against each other and will create spots for rust to begin to form. Annually you should do some maintenance to knock off of the rust and then hit the worn spots with fresh paint.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:38 PM   #19
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I think the rust creates more friction and you have less sway it will clean itself you don't need to do anything to it but it doesn't look as new or clean but it will have less movement with more friction or least that was my feeling over the years
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:11 PM   #20
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That paint will be worn off on the 1st camping trip. Let it rust. It would take 100's of years to rust out. If you want to paint anything then paint the L brackets as they're probably exposed to rain more than the spring bars which are probably kept indoors for the winter.
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