Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-11-2016, 03:41 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 449
Getting the front end back to the same height prior to hitching up often leaves the rear a little low. Some folks (myself included) prefer the "equal squat" method, which brings the TV back to level (or at least to the same stance).

You will have to decide what works best for you. Whatever you decide, do not take too much weight off your rear. You never want your rear higher than before you hitched.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________

__________________
325BH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2016, 08:41 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 33
so you mean I want to raise the rear end about 2 inches without lowering the front?
__________________

__________________
Dee and Chuck (Both retired),Maggie (Boston Terrier) and Duffy (Westie)
2015 Ford F150 Ecoboost
2017 Flagstaff 26RLWS (5/2016-Present)
Grandchildren fill the space in your heart you never knew was empty. Nick 20 y/o and Leif 14 months.
cruisegrandma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2016, 06:30 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 367
Yes . You want your front end to be close to your unhitched height. Your rear end will generally end up 1 to 2 inches lower than it was unhitched. Truck will probably be level then. As most trucks sit higher in the rear.
__________________
Big Red and 30WR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2016, 07:22 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
wbdavey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Oswego, NY
Posts: 274
Get to the scales. As delivered, my setup was within the specs for the measurements at the front wheel. On the scales, the front axle was within 200 pounds of the truck alone weight, but handling and stability were not good. I raised the L brackets one hole and got the front to within 60 pound of truck alone weight. Handling and stability were much, much better. The front axle measurement change was almost undetectable.
__________________
2015 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2604 WS. Rear LR, large street side slide with small wardrobe slide in BR.
2014 Ram 1500 Eco Diesel Laramie Quad Cab.
wbdavey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2016, 07:52 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 367
I recently raised my L brackets up one hole (high as they can go) and I`m running 7 washers. Really made a difference . Front end feels more planted to the road.
__________________
Big Red and 30WR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2016, 07:56 PM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 33
I raised the L brackets one hole. We are going to Delaware Seashore State Park tomorrow so I'll see how it is then.

thanks very much.
__________________
Dee and Chuck (Both retired),Maggie (Boston Terrier) and Duffy (Westie)
2015 Ford F150 Ecoboost
2017 Flagstaff 26RLWS (5/2016-Present)
Grandchildren fill the space in your heart you never knew was empty. Nick 20 y/o and Leif 14 months.
cruisegrandma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 05:25 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
thebrakeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 887
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisegrandma View Post
there are six washers in. The spring arms are close to parallel. It was set up by the dealer. the front distances are 37 5/8" not connected, and 38 1/8" connected but no wd, and 37 7/8" with wd. The trailer is level 24" from ground both front and back. TV is 2015 f150 eco boost with max trailer package.
Thank you.
Front should be as close to stock as possible. You should only be lower in front if you know you have front axle capacity to spare. Usually need at least 3/4-ton or better. You have another 2/8" (1/4") to go, indicating you could transfer more weight.

Rear should always be lower than stock, which you are. But it is strange that the rear height did not change when you engaged the WDH. As someone else indicated, this once again means you are probably not transferring enough weight.

Where I disagree with other is the recommendation to start changing the L-bracket height. Instructions recommend making initial adjustments by adding washers, before messing with the L-brackets. I also recommend (as do the instructions) to keep the bars close to parallel with the trailer frame (and ground), so that the contact patch between bars and brackets is maximized. This decreases wear, and tendency to make noise.

Since 6 washers is not enough, I recommend you go straight to 8 washers, which is the max. You do not have much to go (just another 1/4" in front) so that will probably be enough. Tilting the head down ever so slightly will have the ends of the bars starting quite a bit lower. This means you have the lift them higher to get to the same position they are now, which therefore transfers more weight in the process.

Do that, check the front height, and report back.

if you also change the L-brackets, you will not have level bars, and will be chasing your tail. Change 1 thing at a time.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
thebrakeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 05:34 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 367
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
Front should be as close to stock as possible. You should only be lower in front if you know you have front axle capacity to spare. Usually need at least 3/4-ton or better. You have another 2/8" (1/4") to go, indicating you could transfer more weight.

Rear should always be lower than stock, which you are. But it is strange that the rear height did not change when you engaged the WDH. As someone else indicated, this once again means you are probably not transferring enough weight.

Where I disagree with other is the recommendation to start changing the L-bracket height. Instructions recommend making initial adjustments by adding washers, before messing with the L-brackets. I also recommend (as do the instructions) to keep the bars close to parallel with the trailer frame (and ground), so that the contact patch between bars and brackets is maximized. This decreases wear, and tendency to make noise.

Since 6 washers is not enough, I recommend you go straight to 8 washers, which is the max. You do not have much to go (just another 1/4" in front) so that will probably be enough. Tilting the head down ever so slightly will have the ends of the bars starting quite a bit lower. This means you have the lift them higher to get to the same position they are now, which therefore transfers more weight in the process.

Do that, check the front height, and report back.

if you also change the L-brackets, you will not have level bars, and will be chasing your tail. Change 1 thing at a time.
I tilted my L brackets to make up for the angle of the bars . Now they have full contact with the bars. Running with 7 washers and brackets as high as they go. Seems to be the best set up for being over the hitch rating .
__________________
Big Red and 30WR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 11:12 AM   #19
rvb
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: IN
Posts: 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisegrandma View Post
there are six washers in. ... the front distances are 37 5/8" not connected, and 38 1/8" connected but no wd, and 37 7/8" with wd.
You're 1/4" off your unloaded front measurement. you've reclaimed 1/4" of the 1/2" w/ weight bars unconnected. So you're roughly 1/2 way there in putting the weight back on the front. I'd add a washer or two and see where you land before moving brackets.

Ford manual says to get it w/in 1/2", so you must not have lost a lot off the front end to begin with.

point of the WDH isn't to put the weight evenly on the truck, it's to put the weight back on the front that's lost from leverage. IMO, you don't want to put more on the front than when unloaded, it's the rear axle that's designed to carry load.... it just doesn't need to also carry part of the front axle's load.


I also think the bars should be level for best sway control and friction w/ the brackets. If max # of washers doesn't do it, you may need stiffer bars.

-rvb
__________________
Ryan V. B.
2017 FR Wildwood XLite 195BH
2010 F-150 4x4, 4.6L
rvb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2016, 02:06 PM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 33
So...towed to Delaware Seashore. wasn't too bad but still did alot of porpoising. We are now in Michigan and a relative had some tools I could work with. Seems the ball was about 3 inches over the coupler height when everything was level. Closest I could get was either 1 inch over coupler or lower so went with the 1 inch higher. Also added 1 washer to make 7 couldn't find the 8th. Don't remember how many the dealer gave me. So now the measurements are front wheel well from a 6x6 block of wood 31 1/4" truck alone, 32 1/16' coupled no wd, and 31 1/2 coupled with wd. rear measurements are 37 3/8" uncoupled, 34 7/8" coupled no wd, and 35 5/8" coupled with wd. ( rear measurements taken from 2x4 piece of wood ) Also, now the trailler is slightly nose down when hooked up. Before it was nose high.

If this doesn't tow better, we will be in Illinois next and I'l try to get another washer and/or raise the L brackets a hole. They sit in the middle holes now.

Thanks for all the advice. Really appreciate it.
__________________

__________________
Dee and Chuck (Both retired),Maggie (Boston Terrier) and Duffy (Westie)
2015 Ford F150 Ecoboost
2017 Flagstaff 26RLWS (5/2016-Present)
Grandchildren fill the space in your heart you never knew was empty. Nick 20 y/o and Leif 14 months.
cruisegrandma is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
equalizer

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:12 AM.