Equalizer 4pt wd

[cruisegrandma]

Hello,
According to the setup manual, our front wheel well distances are good. However it says nothing about rear wheel distances. When not hooked up, the rear distance is 39". When hooked up with or without distribution bars the rear distance is 36 7/8". So even though the front is correct we are still pointing to the sky. Any ideas? btw we haven't been to scales yet as the closest are about 1 1/2 hours away.
Thank you.

[Wobbles]

Your are out of adjustment. See page 19. Your tow vehicle should be close to level.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf

[Big Red and 30WR]

You need to add more washers in your head or raise your L brackets . Maybe even do both . Your not transferring any weight yet.

[Happy Vibe]

So are you saying that without the WDH your front end is higher than before you hooked up the trailer and after hooking up the WDH your front is back down to the unloaded height but the rear did not come up at all with the WDH. Something doesn't sound right here. What is you TV?

[cruisegrandma]

there are six washers in. The spring arms are close to parallel. It was set up by the dealer. the front distances are 37 5/8" not connected, and 38 1/8" connected but no wd, and 37 7/8" with wd. The trailer is level 24" from ground both front and back. TV is 2015 f150 eco boost with max trailer package.
Thank you.

[Big Red and 30WR]

First mistake the dealer set it up , most know don`t squat out setting them up right. If your front end came back down when you hooked up the bars then the rear end was to come back up some. A inch or two of rear squat is normal . Your front end numbers look good. How does it handle on the highway ? If the front end feels like it is floating add another washer or raise L brackets up one hole and try again. I`m not understanding why the rear end measurement is staying the same.

[cruisegrandma]

I'll try raising the brackets up a hole. That, I think, will make the bars unparallel though. Unfortunately, I don't have all the tools needed for taking apart the hitch. It feels to me like the front end is light and the trailer porpoises some.
Thank you.

[Big Red and 30WR]

My bars are not parallel to the tongue and have found it to handle the best. You will need a ratchet and a 3/4 socket to raise your L bracket . That should get you off in the right direction.

[cruisegrandma]

those tools i do have. Thank you very much. I still have to get to scales though.

[Big Red and 30WR]

Your very welcome , Raise it up one hole will put more weight transfer . May have to even add a washer or 2 , But you will get it there.

[325BH]

Getting the front end back to the same height prior to hitching up often leaves the rear a little low. Some folks (myself included) prefer the "equal squat" method, which brings the TV back to level (or at least to the same stance).

You will have to decide what works best for you. Whatever you decide, do not take too much weight off your rear. You never want your rear higher than before you hitched.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cruisegrandma]

so you mean I want to raise the rear end about 2 inches without lowering the front?

[Big Red and 30WR]

Yes . You want your front end to be close to your unhitched height. Your rear end will generally end up 1 to 2 inches lower than it was unhitched. Truck will probably be level then. As most trucks sit higher in the rear.

[wbdavey]

Get to the scales. As delivered, my setup was within the specs for the measurements at the front wheel. On the scales, the front axle was within 200 pounds of the truck alone weight, but handling and stability were not good. I raised the L brackets one hole and got the front to within 60 pound of truck alone weight. Handling and stability were much, much better. The front axle measurement change was almost undetectable.

[Big Red and 30WR]

I recently raised my L brackets up one hole (high as they can go) and I`m running 7 washers. Really made a difference . Front end feels more planted to the road.

[cruisegrandma]

I raised the L brackets one hole. We are going to Delaware Seashore State Park tomorrow so I'll see how it is then.

thanks very much.

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by cruisegrandma

there are six washers in. The spring arms are close to parallel. It was set up by the dealer. the front distances are 37 5/8" not connected, and 38 1/8" connected but no wd, and 37 7/8" with wd. The trailer is level 24" from ground both front and back. TV is 2015 f150 eco boost with max trailer package.
Thank you.

Front should be as close to stock as possible. You should only be lower in front if you know you have front axle capacity to spare. Usually need at least 3/4-ton or better. You have another 2/8" (1/4") to go, indicating you could transfer more weight.

Rear should always be lower than stock, which you are. But it is strange that the rear height did not change when you engaged the WDH. As someone else indicated, this once again means you are probably not transferring enough weight.

Where I disagree with other is the recommendation to start changing the L-bracket height. Instructions recommend making initial adjustments by adding washers, before messing with the L-brackets. I also recommend (as do the instructions) to keep the bars close to parallel with the trailer frame (and ground), so that the contact patch between bars and brackets is maximized. This decreases wear, and tendency to make noise.

Since 6 washers is not enough, I recommend you go straight to 8 washers, which is the max. You do not have much to go (just another 1/4" in front) so that will probably be enough. Tilting the head down ever so slightly will have the ends of the bars starting quite a bit lower. This means you have the lift them higher to get to the same position they are now, which therefore transfers more weight in the process.

Do that, check the front height, and report back.

if you also change the L-brackets, you will not have level bars, and will be chasing your tail. Change 1 thing at a time.

[Big Red and 30WR]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

Front should be as close to stock as possible. You should only be lower in front if you know you have front axle capacity to spare. Usually need at least 3/4-ton or better. You have another 2/8" (1/4") to go, indicating you could transfer more weight.

Rear should always be lower than stock, which you are. But it is strange that the rear height did not change when you engaged the WDH. As someone else indicated, this once again means you are probably not transferring enough weight.

Where I disagree with other is the recommendation to start changing the L-bracket height. Instructions recommend making initial adjustments by adding washers, before messing with the L-brackets. I also recommend (as do the instructions) to keep the bars close to parallel with the trailer frame (and ground), so that the contact patch between bars and brackets is maximized. This decreases wear, and tendency to make noise.

Since 6 washers is not enough, I recommend you go straight to 8 washers, which is the max. You do not have much to go (just another 1/4" in front) so that will probably be enough. Tilting the head down ever so slightly will have the ends of the bars starting quite a bit lower. This means you have the lift them higher to get to the same position they are now, which therefore transfers more weight in the process.

Do that, check the front height, and report back.

if you also change the L-brackets, you will not have level bars, and will be chasing your tail. Change 1 thing at a time.

I tilted my L brackets to make up for the angle of the bars . Now they have full contact with the bars. Running with 7 washers and brackets as high as they go. Seems to be the best set up for being over the hitch rating .

[rvb]

Originally Posted by cruisegrandma

there are six washers in. ... the front distances are 37 5/8" not connected, and 38 1/8" connected but no wd, and 37 7/8" with wd.

You're 1/4" off your unloaded front measurement. you've reclaimed 1/4" of the 1/2" w/ weight bars unconnected. So you're roughly 1/2 way there in putting the weight back on the front. I'd add a washer or two and see where you land before moving brackets.

Ford manual says to get it w/in 1/2", so you must not have lost a lot off the front end to begin with.

point of the WDH isn't to put the weight evenly on the truck, it's to put the weight back on the front that's lost from leverage. IMO, you don't want to put more on the front than when unloaded, it's the rear axle that's designed to carry load.... it just doesn't need to also carry part of the front axle's load.


I also think the bars should be level for best sway control and friction w/ the brackets. If max # of washers doesn't do it, you may need stiffer bars.

-rvb

[cruisegrandma]

So...towed to Delaware Seashore. wasn't too bad but still did alot of porpoising. We are now in Michigan and a relative had some tools I could work with. Seems the ball was about 3 inches over the coupler height when everything was level. Closest I could get was either 1 inch over coupler or lower so went with the 1 inch higher. Also added 1 washer to make 7 couldn't find the 8th. Don't remember how many the dealer gave me. So now the measurements are front wheel well from a 6x6 block of wood 31 1/4" truck alone, 32 1/16' coupled no wd, and 31 1/2 coupled with wd. rear measurements are 37 3/8" uncoupled, 34 7/8" coupled no wd, and 35 5/8" coupled with wd. ( rear measurements taken from 2x4 piece of wood ) Also, now the trailler is slightly nose down when hooked up. Before it was nose high.

If this doesn't tow better, we will be in Illinois next and I'l try to get another washer and/or raise the L brackets a hole. They sit in the middle holes now.

Thanks for all the advice. Really appreciate it.