Equalizer Hitch Owners

[Too Tall]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

I just finished setting up my WDH, the set bolt according to the instructions should be tightened until the rivet washers touch and then tighten another 1/4 turn. and should be checked after 50 miles of towing, large bolts holding head torque to 260 LBS

70 ft/lbs torque seems high? I was under the impression that the set bolt just keeps the washers tight till you torque down the two 5/8'bolts.

[thebrakeman]

If you tightened that set bolt before engaging the WD bars, that's the problem. Engaging the system will pulls up on the head with tremendous force.

When making adjustments, tighten that bolt to contact, just do it doesn't move while you work. Then after engaging the bars, tighten to contact, plus the 1/4-turn.

[RiderBloke]

Folks , my hitch has done 5,500 miles and I need to tighten it and the ball. The cost of the tools to do all this is high. Is it better just to have a regular checkup and tighten by a workshop or do most buy the tools and DIY?
Also where do you buy the muscle to put such huge torque forces on the hitch ball etc?


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[lbrjet]

450 on my ball. Bought a 40 inch breaker bar and put all of my 150 lbs weight a few inches from the end of it. That is 450. My dealer installed my hitch and the ball was loose after the 30 mile drive home. Made no sense to bring it back (they obviously didn't know what they doing anyway) so I bought the tools to do it myself. Had to redo the hitch as well.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[keith_h]

When I installed mine I took it to a local truck shop who tightened it for $20. They used the big impact driver they use on the big trucks and it is still as tight as the day I had it done.

[325BH]

Folks...

Proper torque is important. 450 ft/lbs seems like a lot, however with a big (long) breaker bar it is easy to over-torque.

Just use math. For a 150 lb person to torque 450 ft/lbs, you need to put all your weight exactly 3 feet away from the center of the bolt/nut. Just divide the needed torque by the weight you have.

No jumping or bouncing, just slowly place all your weight at the calculated distance on the bar... with the bar parallel to the ground.

I'll use myself as an example: I weigh 175 lbs. To torque 450 ft/lbs, I need to be 2.57 feet from the center line. That is basically 2'-6".

lbrjet has it right. 150 lbs, a few inches from the end of his 40 inch breaker bar (36" territory) is 450 ft/lbs.


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[325BH]

I should add: There is so much riding on that one bolt/nut (the ball), you don't want to screw it up.

Also, pay close attention to the lock nut. If it spreads apart due to nut grabbing and twisting it, it can get squeezed out during use. That would be bad. (I am in the camp of "lock nuts are stupid". I torque without them and use lock-tite. But that is for another discussion.)


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[RiderBloke]

Thanks to all the respondents so far. I'm thinking about what to do. I have the luxury of time as mine is mainly a winter traveler.


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[crossfireshots]

Thank' s Guys
I'm new to all this and I greatly appreciate this information..

[RiderBloke]

Another 2 questions for the mechanics: What do you use to hold the ball still when you are applying such torque? Do you put the hitch in the receiver sideways to do up the nut? (I don't think my wife could hold it still on the floor while I lean on it. [emoji51] )


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[325BH]

I put the hitch in sideways and use a big adjustable wrench with a milk crate to hold the handle. This allows you to rest your weight on the breaker bar and the adjustable wrench tries to go down, which the crate/box/whatever holds it.

No straining involved. Slow, easy, peasy.


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[325BH]

The nicer balls have flat sides for a wrench. If yours don't have it, you can use a pipe wrench.


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[RiderBloke]

Originally Posted by 325BH

I put the hitch in sideways and use a big adjustable wrench with a milk crate to hold the handle. This allows you to rest your weight on the breaker bar and the adjustable wrench tries to go down, which the crate/box/whatever holds it.

No straining involved. Slow, easy, peasy.


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Thanks - I bought one big enough yesterday. I have yet to buy the socket and a big enough bar.


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[lbrjet]

I did the same as 325BH. 24 inch crescent wrench and cement block.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[mopwr4me2003]

Originally Posted by gfarmcafe

After our last camping trip, I've learned to check the torque on every bolt before taking it out again. The side bar sockets were extremely loose. My manual states the shank bolts should be torqued to 320 LBS, but I don't know how to tighten it that much with the wrench I have. Anyone know where I can purchase a wrench that size?

You can usually go to a auto parts store and rent one. Just call and see if they have a torque wrench that goes to the correct ft. Lbs.