I have an Equalizer Hitch and I wonder if what I am experiencing is normal. When I connect the TT to the TV and then try to move the WD Bars into place it takes 2 men and a boy to move the arms. I have watched videos where these arms move pretty easy. I have to put all my weight behind them to make them move. I was told they would loosen up a little after some use. I has not become any easier. Thx for any thoughts..
Try a little grease on the top and bottom of the hitch point at the couplers that the arms lock in to. If that doesn't work check to see how tight the bolts are that hold the couplers on (may be over tightened, but I think the grease will work).
Mine were very stiff as well for the first couple of times. I agree that you should check the torque on the socket bolts. This snip is directly from the owners manual available on the Equal-i-zer web site.
"WARNING
Never tow with loose socket bolts. Tighten socket bolts to a minimum of
45 Ft-lbs torque before each towing session.
CAUTION
CAUTION Do not pound directly on the sockets to move them. Pounding may cause
the sockets to crack or chip. Use only the lever force of the spring arm to
move tight sockets. Loosen the socket bolt if required. Re-tighten them
once the socket has been moved.
Insert spring arms into the sockets in the hitch head. Arms for the 12K
and 14K models are side specific. They are notched slightly off-center, and
should be inserted into the socket with the notch on the inside, and with the
label facing outward."
With all this said, I would agree that a little grease on the socket surface should allow better movement, but you may want to consider loosening the sockets and then re-torquing them.
Latch the trailer onto the ball and then use the tongue jack to lift the whole mess up 2 to 4 inches.
I just installed an electric jack rather than cranking by hand. The bars should swing in w/o any force at all.
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2012 Surveyor SV264
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I think the bolts were overtightened. I always raise the hitch up using my eeelectric winch but I really had to struggle to get them to move. Especially when taking them off. I am 300 lbs and I really had to yank and tug to make em move.
I put the hitch assay into the receiver upside down and needed to use a hammer to loosen the nuts. I re-tourqed them to 45 ft-lbs and greased everything up good.
I'll be hooking it up late next week for our month plus trip up to Maine and Canada and I will see if they are easier to move. Thx for all the good feedback... Don
Are you talking hard to move arms side to side or up onto the "L" brackets?
Important question! Side to side means the ape who installed them did not use a torque wrench to set the sway drag. Up and down is OK (provided the hitch was set up properly) and use the tongue jack to "unload" the hitch so you can swing the bars onto the shelf brackets.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Are you talking hard to move arms side to side or up onto the "L" brackets?
I believe the OP is talking about side to side, not up and down. One of mine was the same way. I retorqued it and greased them both - works nice and smooth now.
Noise is a normal occurance when towing a trailer and using any weight
distribution or sway control hitch.
In some cases the friction on the L-brackets or sockets also generates
noise. This most commonly occurs during slow, tight turns where the tow
vehicle and trailer are in a twist. This noise is normal and should be expected.
It is an indication that there is friction on the L-bracket and sockets.
Most of the noise will usually subside after a few uses as the hitch breaks in.
Trailer and tow vehicle loading may also influence hitch noise.
Lubricating the socket joint may help reduce this noise, and is part of
the required regular maintenance routine. Lubricating the L-bracket joint is
optional. A better solution is a set of official Equal-i-zer brand Sway Bracket
Jackets™. They quiet the ride without the mess of using a lubricant.
Important question! Side to side means the ape who installed them did not use a torque wrench to set the sway drag. Up and down is OK (provided the hitch was set up properly) and use the tongue jack to "unload" the hitch so you can swing the bars onto the shelf brackets.
Yes, side to side. I had to use a hammer to break the bolts lose (ape installed). I torqued them back to 45 foot lbs and greased the friction area. I will be hooking up later this week and will let you know how it works now.
I had a horrible time trying to budge my spring arms on my Equalizer. I figured it would loosen up over time. The "Tales from the crypt " noise that it made at slow speeds/cornering was horrendous. I knew that it was set up correctly simply because my Toy hauler pulled perfectly straight behind my extremely level truck. I didn't think that the bolts were too tight because those bolts (that hold the spring arm sockets) come already set from the factory...why would I think they wouldn't be right? Well I called Progress Mfg. yesterday (manufacturer of the Equalizer ) and explained my issue. The guy tells me "oh yes, we over torque those bolts at the factory to 100 ft. lbs...just go ahead and loosen/re-torque to 60 Ft. lbs. I was like what???!!! Apparently the original spec says torque them 45-65 Ft. lbs but they've now changed it to be 60-100 ft. lbs. I'll be changing them to 60 and see how that feels.
Mags
I had a horrible time trying to budge my spring arms on my Equalizer. I figured it would loosen up over time. The "Tales from the crypt " noise that it made at slow speeds/cornering was horrendous. I knew that it was set up correctly simply because my Toy hauler pulled perfectly straight behind my extremely level truck. I didn't think that the bolts were too tight because those bolts (that hold the spring arm sockets) come already set from the factory...why would I think they wouldn't be right? Well I called Progress Mfg. yesterday (manufacturer of the Equalizer ) and explained my issue. The guy tells me "oh yes, we over torque those bolts at the factory to 100 ft. lbs...just go ahead and loosen/re-torque to 60 Ft. lbs. I was like what???!!! Apparently the original spec says torque them 45-65 Ft. lbs but they've now changed it to be 60-100 ft. lbs. I'll be changing them to 60 and see how that feels.
Mags
60 should be perfect, I used 55 ft-lbs for several years with no problems.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Like some have said, Use the tongue jack to lift the rear of the vehicle makes life easy.
Yes , I’ve owned one in the past & I do know how the Equalizer works re: lifting rear of TV to release tension to get bars on. I could’ve lifted to Heaven and it still wouldn’t have budged. It was about the bolts being at 100ft. Lbs. As soon as I re-torqued, it was all good.
You have to crank that tongue jack pretty high. You should see a definite inverted V between the tow vehicle and the trailer. Once I get mine lifted high enough, my bars drop right in and come right out with no resistance whatsoever. I crank the tongue jack, kick the bar, not loose, crank the tongue jack some more. The bar should loosen under that J pin. Once the bar is completely loose I take it out. It amazes me how far I lift the tongue and how much weight from the back of my truck that thing can lift/hold.
Mine were over tightened also. As for the turning noise, I bought some of these silencer jackets and they eliminated most all of the noise. I haven't noticed any reduction in sway control.
Mine were over tightened also. As for the turning noise, I bought some of these silencer jackets and they eliminated most all of the noise. I haven't noticed any reduction in sway control.
I just took a ride with the trailer connected and the sockets at 50ft. Lbs.. just a bit easier to get the spring bats on & still tows good and 80% less noise.. but I may try those jackets too[emoji1303]