Equalizer WDH hitch setup with GM Autoride (Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon)

azfansinnc · 10-01-2018, 07:02 PM

Hi all,

I have searched and read and wanted tog et some real life experience from those that have a late model Suburban or Yukon with the ALC (Automatic Level Control) aka autoride and use it with an Equalizer hitch.

For reference, my truck is a 2015 Yukon XL 4x4 w/max tow. We are picking up a 2019 Roo 23BDS hybrid next week and our first tow will be the 600 mile ride home through the WV mountains.

The dealer (RVW) is suggesting a 1000/10000 unit but that seems pretty light. Equalizer sales support suggested a 1400/14000 unit to account for the load in the back of the truck. I used 600# as a reference for the load and 990# max TW which is 15% of the GVWR of the trailer at 6600#. I don't ever expect to tow at max but want to be ready.

Here is their response:

"Thanks for contacting us, overkill is not an issue with our hitches, so we often recommend going with a bigger size. With 600lbs in the back of your vehicle I would recommend going with our 14K hitch. This way you can load up everything you need and not have to worry about exceeding any limits. Also we do recommend turning off the auto leveling system because it actually counteracts the hitch. When it lifts up the back of your truck it releases the pressure off of the hitch and you will not get any sway control."

This really makes me nervous. While I have towed plenty of smaller loads and even some biger ones, we had a serious accident about 30 years ago that still haunts me...

I don't mind paying the extra $$ for the bigger/different hitch, I just want to make the right choice and have the sway control I need. Short of the Hensley/Propride units are there other options that might control the sway better, if we experience it? Do all the hitches rely on the tension/friction created by the WD to limit/eliminate sway? Lots of people tow with these trucks. What works and doesn't work? How did you set it up and why (I have read the manual)

Thanks in advance.

**bikendan** · 10-01-2018, 07:11 PM

I think the 1000/10000 unit is perfect for that Roo.
I used one for my 23SS and it easily handled it.
I still use it for my bigger TT.

007matman · 10-02-2018, 07:49 AM

The Fastway E2 is very similar to the Equalizer hitch.

I used the 10,000lb E2 with my 2010 Escalade ESV (yes, the Cadillac has Autoride as well).

Never had any issue with sway and the trailer didn't skip a beat. Even had an emergency situation in Kansas City where I was forced on to a tight exit ramp and had to rapidly brake and turn a corner at the same time. My wife freaked out but the trailer did well and tracked just fine.

In all honesty it was a fill you pants moment.. were very fortunate everything worked well.

My trailer is 6700lbs dry/7400lbs loaded,, 32.5' long.

I don't tow with that vehicle any longer but the hitch set up was fine.

dustman_stx · 10-02-2018, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

I think the 1000/10000 unit is perfect for that Roo.
I used one for my 23SS and it easily handled it.
I still use it for my bigger TT.

I concur. With that being said, the 14K will work just fine, but it's definitely overkill. Equalizer has always tried to take into account what is in the bed(or cargo area) in addition to tongue weight, but I see no need for that. The SUV is designed to carry that when not hitched up. Plus a portion of that weight will already be transferred to the front axle since some of it will be in front of the rear axle. In addition, you are calculating the absolute maximum using 15% of 6600. You likely won't be loaded to 100% of GVWR and I'd shoot for 12-13% TW instead of 15%. That would put you in the low to mid 800s on TW.

My17Ram · 10-02-2018, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

I think the 1000/10000 unit is perfect for that Roo.
I used one for my 23SS and it easily handled it.
I still use it for my bigger TT.

I agree with bikendan. IMHO the 1400 is way overkill. I use an Equalizer 4 point 1000 for my 233s and have had two motorcycles (1000lbs) in the bed of my truck andthe setup handled excellent. The 1400 will cause a jerky ride and porpoising with your rig.

MR.M · 10-02-2018, 10:13 AM

look into the andersen hitch . not only will it handle your tw but offers no sway and controls bounce . if you set it up correctly you should still be able to use your ALC . jmho

dustman_stx · 10-02-2018, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My17Ram

The 1400 will cause a jerky ride and porpoising with your rig.

This hasn't been my experience. I do have the 14K setup, but I use the same hitch for my 35+' 10K rig and my 24' 5K rig. I installed larger tires to get the hitch height correct on the smaller rig. They both tow excellently. Most people think that you'd have to make changes in the setup for different tongue weights, but this hasn't been my case. When hitch heights are the same, the heavier TW will press down harder and the hitch will by default place more weight on the front of the TV. The difference in the 2 setups is that the additional tongue weight causes the heavier TT to sit maybe a half inch down at the nose while the lighter rig sits perfectly level- truck is level with either. So, if the OP does want to get the heavier hitch, it'll work just fine, but it's not needed.

jbrosecity · 10-02-2018, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR.M

look into the andersen hitch . not only will it handle your tw but offers no sway and controls bounce . if you set it up correctly you should still be able to use your ALC . jmho

I used my 2010 Suburban LTZ with the Andersen anti-sway WDH and it worked well. The ALC always worked normally when using it and the Burb never looked low in the rear even with 6-700 lbs hitch weight. Using it with Dodge Durango RT now and no problems either

Mahlstedtd · 10-02-2018, 07:26 PM

Be careful if you have a newer vehicle by gm with auto ride. Have heard of problems with the new systems and towing with equalizer hitch. Be sure to carefully read your owner's manual.

007matman · 10-02-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mahlstedtd

Be careful if you have a newer vehicle by gm with auto ride. Have heard of problems with the new systems and towing with equalizer hitch. Be sure to carefully read your owner's manual.

You set it up with Autoride turned off.

There are a couple of fuses you can pull to disable it. Take your measurements and get them in spec through adjusting the hitch. Then, with everything adjusted within spec re-enable the system. If done correctly, the system will only adjust a little bit.

It works with the sensors on the front wheels. It is looking for level more than it is ride height. that's why it's important to install and adjust with the system turned off.

azfansinnc · 10-02-2018, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007matman

You set it up with Autoride turned off.

There are a couple of fuses you can pull to disable it. Take your measurements and get them in spec through adjusting the hitch. Then, with everything adjusted within spec re-enable the system. If done correctly, the system will only adjust a little bit.

It works with the sensors on the front wheels. It is looking for level more than it is ride height. that's why it's important to install and adjust with the system turned off.

Thanks. Mine is not the Denali so its only the rear system which uses a sensor on the trailing arms to measure the droop and then air shocks to bring the tail up. Interestingly, the manual says to enable the system and then set up the bars. The key measurement according to the owners manual is to measure the front fender height before connecting and then adjusting the WDH to get the fender back to that height with the weight applied, system enabled and the bars tensioned.

aceinspp · 10-03-2018, 06:20 AM

I have the auto level on my Ram and do use the 1400 # equalizer hitch and have no issues with towing and truck is always level. Nothing in the manual that says to disable using WDH. Later RJD

007matman · 10-03-2018, 08:35 AM

On all models the air shocks are on the rear.

There is some differing opinions on this. I'd call them and speak to someone. Make sure they know what you have (Auto-ride).

I'm pretty sure for your system you'll want to have it off to adjust the hitch. For a manual or aftermarket system you have air in the bags.

azfansinnc · 10-03-2018, 11:25 AM

Equalizer has been responsive. I told them that I could not shut off the system. Here is their reply:

"If you can not turn off the system it is just a bit more difficult to set up. because it is adjusting its self. you usually have to overload the hitch so that there is still pressure on the arms even after the truck has leveled itself. it takes some trial and error to get the correct amount of pressure because the normal front end measurements used to get the correct amount of weight distribution is not valid anymore because of the back being leveled by the truck rather than the hitch. so you will have to try it with different amounts of washers, then tow the trailer, and keep adjusting it until you feel that you are getting good sway control."

I need to understand how difficult it is to add/remove spacers on the side of the road with an Equalizer.

GM says to inflate and then setup. We'll try that first. This makes sense as the rear ride height will be set with all the weight on the back and then I can add tension to bring the front down to the right setting.

If I go through the setup with the air ride off, it's possible (likely?) that the air ride will raise the truck even more and negate the adjustments I have already done to transfer the weight to the front.

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