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Old 07-07-2008, 01:52 PM   #11
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 46
Just want to say that the L bracket adjustment worked just fine. A good towing set up got even better. Proved it out coming home yesterday for 186 miles on the interstate.
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Dave and Robin
2001 Chev Silverado 3500 DRW 8.1L
2008 Rockwood 8296SS
Equal-i-zer WDH
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:06 PM   #12
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 46
The following is a quote from an email from Ken Leek of Progress Mfg.

"Tension in the spring arms is one of the factors that makes for effective sway control. Your bars should be stiff and take some force to activate the hitch or to place the bars on the L-brackets. If you trailer is sitting nose high your hitch needs to drop some, as you mentioned above, you can purchase a new receiver shank or if you haven’t already you can drop the head down to the bottom holes of the shank to level you trailer. (It already is)

The lack of tension in your bars may be a result of wear in the hitch arm sockets. One suggestion is to tighten the hitch sockets to between 45 – 60 ft.lbs of torque, and to add high performance lubrication to the top and bottom of the arm sockets."
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2001 Chev Silverado 3500 DRW 8.1L
2008 Rockwood 8296SS
Equal-i-zer WDH
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