Equalizer WDH With Pre-Installed Hitch Ball

[Camp4two]

I have a 1,000/10,000 Equalizer WDH with a pre-installed 2-5/16" hitch ball. The hitch ball torque is 430 ft. lbs. (pre-torqued by factory).

Equalizer has a thin wall 1-7/8" x 3/4" drive socket designed for their hitch balls. Cost on e-trailer.com is approx. $73 includes tax.

1. Does a properly torqued hitch ball ever require to be re-torqued every so many months/years or just when loose (if ever)?

2. Is it a good idea to have their thin wall socket (just in case)?

Camp4two

[JandS]

How I handled this issue:
I stopped at the dealer I purchased my EQ E4 from on a Tuesday mid-morning (less busy time) and mentioned I purchased it there and needed a torque check on the ball before we left for a 2K mi trip. I don't have the tools required for 430 ft/lbs torque check. I had it in the receiver upside down already (ease of access to nut) and the service guy torqued it for me. I thanked him and was on my way. After I got home I used some yellow Rustoleum paint to add a stripe across the bottom face of ball stud, nut, and the hitch portion on the underside as a visual indicator to check for any movement. If the ball turns, or nut loosens, the yellow stripe will not be straight across all three items anymore.

[Camp4two]

Great solution JandS. I will paint a stripe on mine too. Thank you.

[wrvond]

With 35,000 pulling miles on my current hitch, it has never needed to be re-torqued.

However, if I was doing a fresh install and concerned about the potential, I'd implement J and S' solution.



I believe they sell yellow and white paint pens at the auto parts stores. It's been so long since I bought one, I can't remember for sure.

[Splitshaft]

If it ever did loosen at 430 pound-feet, something may be going on other than needing re-torquing. Compression forces that great on anything other than hardened steel are going to lead to metal deformation of any mild steel in the sandwich under compression. Marking the position of the nut in relation to the shank will help. However, it won't tell the whole story as to the actual torque being maintained over time. The nut does not need to move (turn) on the threaded shank for the ball shank to stretch or other components under compression to become compressed over time that can cause a reduction in torque. Nothing should ever be moving under that much compression unless something is going on which might indicate some new parts are needed rather than re-torquing the old ones in my opinion. I worry more about the little 5/8-inch pin sheering.

[polishdon]

Originally Posted by Splitshaft

I worry more about the little 5/8-inch pin sheering.

I've often thought the same thing. We pull these trailers with heavy duty hitch set ups, but it's all really locked to your vehicle by just that little pin.

[babock]

I have a wrench that is over 2 feet long. I can step on it and I am around 195#. That is around 400ft lbs. I give a little jump to add the extra!

[babock]

Originally Posted by polishdon

I've often thought the same thing. We pull these trailers with heavy duty hitch set ups, but it's all really locked to your vehicle by just that little pin.

If you ever have that pin shear, you have bigger problems.

[ard58]

I have went through several pins, bending due to using the tongue jack to lift the back of the truck and hitch to be able to install the torsion arms. That's kind of scary in itself.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by ard58

I have went through several pins, bending due to using the tongue jack to lift the back of the truck and hitch to be able to install the torsion arms. That's kind of scary in itself.

If your bending the pin are you sure you don't need a reducer sleeve? Many of the newer trucks are equipped with either a 3 inch or 2-1/2 inch hitch receiver. If you have a 2 inch shank on the WDH there will be too much play without the reducer.


I saw a guy put hardwood shims into the receiver to take up the play. When I asked him about it he said "I've been doing it for a couple of years now and have not had any problems." I shook my head and told him he would never see me do such a dumb thing, then I walked away.

[Camp4two]

Good points everyone on the 5/8" hitch pin being a weak link in the entire WDH system. To minimize wear on the pin and stop the rattle from shank movement I use this HD 2 inch hitch clamp:

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-C...itch+tightener

I still get some wear on my "Bolt" hitch pin but without a hitch clamp there would be (1) more wear on the pin by the shank's movement in the receiver and (2) the rattle noise you get from the shank when towing.

[Stormrider151]

Originally Posted by Camp4two

Good points everyone on the 5/8" hitch pin being a weak link in the entire WDH system. To minimize wear on the pin and stop the rattle from shank movement I use this HD 2 inch hitch clamp:

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-C...itch+tightener

I still get some wear on my "Bolt" hitch pin but without a hitch clamp there would be (1) more wear on the pin by the shank's movement in the receiver and (2) the rattle noise you get from the shank when towing.

I have the same devise on my truck as well. The directions for it said not to use it while towing. Why? The force is generated down on the hitch. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Have you noticed any deformation using it while towing?

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

If your bending the pin are you sure you don't need a reducer sleeve? Many of the newer trucks are equipped with either a 3 inch or 2-1/2 inch hitch receiver. If you have a 2 inch shank on the WDH there will be too much play without the reducer.
<snip>.

I have a 3" receiver with two reducer sleeves. I've used a 2" shank with both sleeves in place (of course) and a 2.5" shank with (you guessed it) the 2.5" sleeve alone.
I've had no problems using either set up with my Bolt hitch pin, but prefer using the 2.5" set up due to less play.
Anyway, I have bent two of those Reese locking hitch pins very badly. One with both sleeves in place and one with just the 2.5" sleeve. They bent very quickly, meaning in less than a couple thousand miles each. The Bolt pin has been great, with no problems at all.

It appears that there is steel, and then there is STEEL...

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Stormrider151

I have the same devise on my truck as well. The directions for it said not to use it while towing. Why? The force is generated down on the hitch. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Have you noticed any deformation using it while towing?

Agree. My Bolt hitch pin has some very minor scaring, but no bends. This is after towing my former 4,500 lb. trailer over 12K miles with both the HD hitch clamp and Bolt hitch pin. Equalizer provides a hitch pin with their WDH kits so it will be a backup to my Bolt pin.

[Camp4two]

Originally Posted by Stormrider151

I have the same devise on my truck as well. The directions for it said not to use it while towing. Why? The force is generated down on the hitch. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Have you noticed any deformation using it while towing?

Just read my instructions from hitchclamp.com that came with my 2" clamp and saw nothing that said not to use it while towing. Among other disclaimer stuff it said "Use with caution and use at your own risk." So that's what I'm doing (without any incident so far).

See my other reply to you below WRT my Bolt hitch pin.