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Old 04-25-2014, 09:51 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Nelsen83 View Post
how does one figure out the tough weight? the Payload is 1360lbs
I got one of these:

Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scale - 2,000-lb Capacity Sherline Tools 5780

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Old 04-25-2014, 10:49 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Nelsen83 View Post
how does one figure out the tough weight? the Payload is 1360lbs
Take the rig to some CAT scales. The truck axles with trailer hooked up (without spring bars in place) minus the truck axles without the trailer hooked up equals the tongue weight. All cargo and passengers should remain in the same position.

1 more weigh-in (the trailer with spring bars in place) will give you information compared to the truck solo weight as to how well the WDH is adjusted. Again, all passengers and cargo in the same position every time.

You can also a Sherline (previously mentioned) or your bathroom scales to get a tongue weight: Measuring trailer tongue weight with a bathroom scale


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Old 04-25-2014, 11:07 AM   #13
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As a full timer and retired. I rarely pass anything on the highway. Average speed is 53mph. Not telling you to slow down mate, but how fast do you tow?
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:15 AM   #14
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Get your rig weighed - do it right.

watch this video.

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Old 04-25-2014, 12:03 PM   #15
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i would've gone with the original 4-point Equal-i-zer WDH and not the cheaper E2 WDH, because of the length of your trailer.

IMHO, the E2 is better for shorter and lighter trailers.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Nelsen83 View Post
how does one figure out the tough weight? the Payload is 1360lbs
Do you have all the weight in the back mid or front. If you get to much weight in the back thus removing tongue weight can cause washing feeling. Does it start when you go over a bump? Sure sign of light tongue weight.

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Old 04-25-2014, 09:39 PM   #17
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You really need to double check the WDH setup, also the way you have the your trailer loaded.
Dealing with large amounts of weight over the
years you want to center your weight over
your axles when ever possible or toward the front of the trailer. To much in front is just as
bad as to much to the rear, but out of the two
to much at the rear of the trailer is the worst.

hope you figure it out so that you will enjoy camping and not worry about driving to or from
a camp site and enjoy your weekends and
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:54 PM   #18
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We had the same problem while pulling our former V-Lite with DH's former 150 ecobeast.

DH said it "didn't have enough ass". That's why it's his "former" 150 eco beast.

bought the 250 to better tow the V-Lite, then upgraded to a 5er.

If age is a state of mind, and I've lost my mind, I'm AGELESS, right?
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:21 PM   #19
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I have the same problem with our Ram 1500 and SP 296 TT.

Going to be changing out the P rated tires to E load range tires. Also been told to back off the tension on the WHD to get more weight to the back of the truck and will also help with the porpoising.

May also have to look into a WDH with sway control if the above doesn't resolve the issue.

Hope you get yours figured out.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:30 PM   #20
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I'd agree with the tire advice and also setting up your own WDH based on what I've seen dealerships do. I've probably got half the rig, but it's in about the same proportions. This last trip out, I swapped the stock P tires on the rear with XL (51PSI)..still P tires, as LT's are a little too stiff for what I normally use the truck for. I normally run 30 front / 35 rear cold as per the door sticker, but bumped it to 35 front / 45 rear with the new tires while towing. Felt much more solid and picked up a little over 1 mpg.

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