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Old 07-27-2016, 12:54 PM   #11
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regardless of the method the end result is to get it torqued to spec. the 2' cheater bar will apply force (maybe too much) depending on the strength and weight of the person using it. The dial in torque wrench doesn't care how strong you are or if you are using a cheater it clicks at proper torque. I have used both methods with good results
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:58 PM   #12
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Forgot congrats on the new tow vehicle, just adjust the WD hitch like others have said to get proper height of the ball aprox 1" above the trailer coupler measured with the trailer level and not attached to the TV.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
How do you think the mechanic you are paying does it?
I don't pay mechanics. I have a full race shop with a 400 ft/lb torque wrench.
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:50 PM   #14
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I don't pay mechanics. I have a full race shop with a 400 ft/lb torque wrench.
So you're the guy others pay. Nice plug for some work.
Or is your shop a hobby?
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:17 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by goduc View Post
So you're the guy others pay. Nice plug for some work.
Or is your shop a hobby?
Hobby only.
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:48 AM   #16
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Congrats!

I had a similar experience when I upgraded from a toyota. I had to lower the hitch on my shank 2 notches. My F250 is 4X4 so it sat up a good bit higher than the toyota. I also had to add some washers on the back of my WDH to make it so that the trunnions had the appropriate pressure. What I found after lowering the hitch was that the front fender measured almost 3 inches higher than the unloaded position. The trailer was level but I was not getting the weight evenly distributed between all the axles. driving before and after my adjustment in washers was significantly improved after adjustments were added. I was getting a good bit more sway, even with Ford's anti sway built in. I added a total of 3 washers (1 at a time) until my front fender was within 1/2" of where I started before any load was added. I feel like I need to point out that I did go to the scales and make sure my tongue weight wasn't to high. It was not, payload was also OK. Everything is level now and it tows pretty effortlessly, hardly know it's back there. Love my F250!
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:39 AM   #17
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Guys, quit comparing...ummm...wrenches.


To OP, all things being equal, you need to drop the ball/head by 3". But since all things are not equal (F250 will not squat as much as F150 under load), you may actually need to drop it more than 3" to end up with a level trailer, assuming you were level before.


Standard hole-spacing on any WDH shank is 1". So 2 holes down is 2.5"; 3 holes down is 3.75". If you were a bit tongue-high before, go down 3 holes. If a bit tongue-low before, try 2 holes down.


Either way, that's a starting point. You need to do a complete re-check on the F250, measuring the front wheel well height before and after attaching trailer and engaging WDH. You want that height to be back to stock for best handling.
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