Fifth Wheel Hitch-slider or fixed?

[muddyrode]

I have a pullrite super glide in my 2500hd and it I use it all the time as I live in the country an when I pull into thru my drive into farm yard I do a u turn to get the fw on to the parking pad I have gotten used to making tight turns and have gotten to love my slider

[MilCop4523]

mixed.... we have a 34 foot Sundance and a 2013 XTR ecoboost with a 6.6 box.
the hitch i went with is the Reese 16 k with slider.
have used it 3 times but hauled more that that.
depends on where i have to back into i guess as to whether its a tight turn and i need the extra space the slider gives me.

better than hearing the crunch of metal and sound of busting glass

[Dogpatch]

I can't comment on the truck as I own a new Ram 3500 SB SRW 4x4, however, as to the hitch I chose the Pullright Superglide 18k.

I just didn't ever want to worry about whether or not I would need to make a tight turn. I'm new to truck and fifth wheel and the last thing I wanted was for something to happen to my $80k truck or damage the 5er due to "driver" error. What a way to spoil a holiday!

The only drawback I find on my hitch set up is I need to be within 15* of straight to hook and unhook. Hasn't been an issue....yet!

Yes, the glider hitch is more expensive, but would more than pay for itself in no "OOOPS" worry free operation and extra step of having to get out to adjust a slider.

I'm lucky in that I negotiated the costlier hitch in with the purchase of the truck.
Even with the Superglide on rails with picture frame adapter on the 3500 4x4, I'm under 13'6" in height towing my 3450RL.

[Busybeavers]

Originally Posted by RubberNail

I have a Super Glide automatic slider in my 2007 GMC 2500HD 4x4 crew cab. During 8 years of pulling, I'd guess about 120k miles with a 5th wheel, only HAD to HAVE it 3 times. Those 3 times it was essential. You don't need a slider til you need it, then you can't do without it without damage. An auto slider is not essential, but would vote for that over a manual. Usually the situation when needed is very stressful, and engaging the slider might not be your first thought.

I have the same rig on mine - and you are right, when you need it YOU Need IT! Same as a fire extinguisher! Not worth skimping.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Karl4Cat

Actually, they won't overload the truck. The 250 with the camper package is 100% identical to the SRW 350 but de-rated by Ford to fill a different market segment. The camper package on the 250 adds the single rear upper overload spring that the SRW 350 comes with standard. So, if you don't have the camper package, just add the spring if you find the truck sags under the pin weight. Bottom line is a 250 with the camper package is a SRW 350 with different door jamb stickers and emblems.

The only other thing I would recommend is upping the air pressure on your rear tires to 80 PSI during the towing season. While the 250 and SRW 350 share tires and wheels, the factory recommended air pressure is 65/65 on a 250 and 65/80 on a SRW 350.

Seconding 100% correct!! I have the same truck, camper package, super cab. When I drop my fifth wheel on the pin it lowers on the camper overloads a bit. Solid as rock. I am running no where near max load but will certainly look at increasing air pressure with a larger trailer.

[alayton]

Originally Posted by Windy

Just purchased a Cardinal 3250RL fifth wheel. I have a 2015 F250 4x4 SuperCrew, diesel, with a 6 1/2 box with the factory installed fifth wheel hitch prep (puchs system). I am considering the Demco 18k auto slider (only one I could find that fits the puchs) or the B&W Companion 20k fixed for the puchs system. My main question is "do I need a slider hitch "? Would appreciate comments from F250 owners with the puch system pulling a fifth wheel and what type of hitch they recommend? Thanks!

I have a 2002 30ft. Cardinal . I tried 3 B&W sliders and none of them worked like they should have and you had to get out of the truck to engage them.
I switched to the Demco Hijacker slider and couldn't be happier.
I have a 2005 King Ranch but no pucks. I installed mine myself using under bed mounts.

[Mahlstedtd]

Originally Posted by grumpyoldman

I was under the assumption that all short bed trucks need a slider hitch! (Isn't that true?) This is my first FW so I may be wrong about that.
That is why I bought the Pullrite auto slider for my 2015 GMC 3500 crewcab. I am pulling a CC 36CKTS and love the auto slide and I can feel it slide at almost every turn I make.

We have this same CC. Pull it with a 2013 2500 HD Duramax. Have no slider . Using an Anderson Ultimate hitch. Sets back 9.5". No even close to cab.

[Jim in Halifax]

I have a chev Silverado 2500--short box----$$ difference between two was not an issue...installed slider model..never used as yet...no regrets in my decision...who knows down the road!!!! j

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by B and B

Seconding 100% correct!! I have the same truck, camper package, super cab. When I drop my fifth wheel on the pin it lowers on the camper overloads a bit. Solid as rock. I am running no where near max load but will certainly look at increasing air pressure with a larger trailer.

That's interesting since my F350 don't come close to the over load springs till I exceed 3200 lbs in the bed. My 2800 lbs pin isn't even close to loading up/touching the overload springs.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by CWSWine

That's interesting since my F350 don't come close to the over load springs till I exceed 3200 lbs in the bed. My 2800 lbs pin isn't even close to loading up/touching the overload springs.

I need to restate this. It has just touched them. I had the truck undercoated and that is the only reason I know it has touched them, as far as sitting on the overloads when hitched I can report back in the spring.

[Karl4Cat]

Originally Posted by CWSWine

That's interesting since my F350 don't come close to the over load springs till I exceed 3200 lbs in the bed. My 2800 lbs pin isn't even close to loading up/touching the overload springs.

Give it time. They will. My 350 didn't engage the overloads for the first year or so with 3k on the pin. Now with about 20k towing miles between my last hauler and my current one, anything over 2k in the bed engages the overloads at both ends.

If you need confirmation though, just look up the spring pack part numbers between the 250 w/camper package and the SRW 350. Same goods...

[Windy]

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations. I have decided to go with the Demco 18K HiJacker, AutoSlider. This Cardinal 3250 has a dry weight 12,201lbs and Gross weight of 14,252lbs. My F250 can tow 14,000 conventional and 16,300 fifth wheel towing so I should be within the specifications. Do expect some sagging so will look into the airbags. Thanks again.

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by Windy

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations. I have decided to go with the Demco 18K HiJacker, AutoSlider. This Cardinal 3250 has a dry weight 12,201lbs and Gross weight of 14,252lbs. My F250 can tow 14,000 conventional and 16,300 fifth wheel towing so I should be within the specifications. Do expect some sagging so will look into the airbags. Thanks again.

A year ago I would agree that my 2500HD Diesel was in spec but after my 11,380 lbs 5er was put on a Cat scales and my rear axle weight went to 5980 lbs within in 120 lbs of the max axle weight and the truck gross weight went to 10960 which was 960 lbs over my 10,000 lbs gross weight. I was within in 200 lbs of my max tire rating. My 5er went from a 19.8% pin dry weight to 24.1% pin weight in real life. Now with a F350 I'm with a 3744 CC I'm within 500 lbs of CCC left over for safety margin. You never know till you put it on the scale!!!

To get the tow rating Truck Manufactures figure a 15% pin weight which is not real world numbers for the pin weights.

My Scale Weights http://www.towingplanner.com/ActualW...&w2da=3480&a=2

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by Karl4Cat

Give it time. They will. My 350 didn't engage the overloads for the first year or so with 3k on the pin. Now with about 20k towing miles between my last hauler and my current one, anything over 2k in the bed engages the overloads at both ends.

If you need confirmation though, just look up the spring pack part numbers between the 250 w/camper package and the SRW 350. Same goods...

Just made a observation since our trucks are both 2015 and I have about 3,000 miles on the clock towing and his stated his was almost on the overloads with less than 2000 lbs pin and mine with 2800 lbs was not where near on the overloads. I put chalk on my stops and they don't hit towing either.

[dalford]

Originally Posted by donniedu

I think you need more truck before the hitch!
That trailer will definitely overload your 250 once you add a couple of bodies in the seats and fill the trailer for camping. Please remember, NO ONE ever tows a dry trailer.

The OP asked a question about a fifth wheel hitch and guess what! The weight police showed up...

[transamz9]

Originally Posted by donniedu

thanks, you just made my point. It is still labled as a 250 and has a 250s GVWR sticker on the door. Exceeding that door sticker allows several things to happen. Voiding mfg warrenty is the first. Liabability in case of accident is another. Were still a relatively free country, so the OP can do as he pleases. Just dont get in accident with me, because guaranteed I will own everything he has at the end of the day

I guaranteed you will go broke trying to prove that because I went over my GVWR is what caused the accident.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by Karl4Cat

Give it time. They will. My 350 didn't engage the overloads for the first year or so with 3k on the pin. Now with about 20k towing miles between my last hauler and my current one, anything over 2k in the bed engages the overloads at both ends.

If you need confirmation though, just look up the spring pack part numbers between the 250 w/camper package and the SRW 350. Same goods...

Mine also will not touch the overloads stays about 1.5 to 2 inches away from them. Same part numbers but when you order them they need your VIN number so there must be something different?

[CWSWine]

I have short bed F350 and this what I did when I was trying to decided. I measured from the center line of the axle to the cab. Then I went to the 5er and used that measurement and placed in the center of the pin of the 5er and walk around the nose and showed I had several inches to spare. so I went with a non slider.

In real world i took to a parking lot and I can turn 90 degrees without hitting but not only by a couple of inches. That is on level ground so I still have to be careful on a slop, it could hit. I'm more worried about the 5er hitting the rail since to get close to level I had to reduce the space between the rail and the 5er to just under 6".

It really depends on the shape of the nose on your 5er.

[Karl4Cat]

Originally Posted by onetonford

Mine also will not touch the overloads stays about 1.5 to 2 inches away from them. Same part numbers but when you order them they need your VIN number so there must be something different?

You do not need a VIN to order springs. The springs are identical. VIN's are requested on every sale to avoid selling the wrong parts when the part number can vary by VIN. They don't skip requesting it when the parts are the same. It's automatic. So, enter the VIN from any 11+ SRW 350 or any 11+ 250 with the camper package and you will get the same part number for the springs. As I said before, other than the emblems and the door jamb sticker, the two trucks are 100% physically identical. Every part.

Three disclaimers on the above.
1) In 2011 the SRW 350's got hydroboost brakes just like the DRW's and the 250's got vacuum boost. From 2012+ all the SRW's got vacuum boost and hydroboost was DRW only.
2) The XL trim on a 250 will come with lower rated 17" rims and tires. XLT and up all have the same 18" and 20" rims and tire options between the two lines, just lower recommended pressure on the 250's.
3) Up until 2015, the 250's got a 2" spacer block under the rear springs and the SRW 350's got a 4" block. The camper package got you the taller block too on th 250's so again the two were the same. From 2015+ other packages also got you the taller block. The block has nothing to do with weight carrying though and just helps the 350 not show it's sag so much under the heavier loads it's owners will likely throw at it. Start with a rake and you end up level under load. Start at level and you end up with a sagging rear under load...

[Karl4Cat]

Originally Posted by CWSWine

I have short bed F350 and this what I did when I was trying to decided. I measured from the center line of the axle to the cab. Then I went to the 5er and used that measurement and placed in the center of the pin of the 5er and walk around the nose and showed I had several inches to spare. so I went with a non slider.

In real world i took to a parking lot and I can turn 90 degrees without hitting but not only by a couple of inches. That is on level ground so I still have to be careful on a slop, it could hit. I'm more worried about the 5er hitting the rail since to get close to level I had to reduce the space between the rail and the 5er to just under 6".

It really depends on the shape of the nose on your 5er.

That's really cool that you can get a full 90 degrees. I could get 88 with my previous 5th but not so much on my current one.