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Old 08-05-2019, 09:10 AM   #1
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First pull with the ProPride 3P

Finished my install yesterday. Not really a bad job, just a little heavy wrenching. The directions given were more detailed than I expected them to be, and quite adequate. My only gripe was I thought it could use more diagrams. I'm a 'visual' kind of guy. But there are a couple of videos on youtube that let you visually see how the install is supposed to go, and they helped me understand what needed to be done. The only install issue was (once the hitch was all set up and adjusted), one of the adjustment bolts on over-center latch wants to hit the lower of the 3 bolts in the side-plates. No big deal, it still latches fine. 3 minutes with a grinder will take care of the interference. If you are wondering if you are able to install the hitch yourself... I gotta say, IMHO if you are mechanically inclined enough to know how to properly use a torque wrench, you can easily handle this installation.

First hookup went well, but it was clear to me that I missed the mark in stinger height by a lot. Way too low. But as I was hooked up and blocking the street, I figured I would pull it about 3/4 mile down the road to our local school parking lot. Its nice and flat and reasonably level. I found a shady spot, unhooked, and set out on moving the stinger up. I went 2 holes, and that seemed to put me at a good height.

I ran it down the road, about 30 mile total. It did EVERYTHING you read about. First 2 miles from the house is a country road. At the first curve in the road, I dialed in some steering for the turn, and automatically get ready to catch it as the trailer pushed the tail end of the truck into the corner, tightening up my line. Nope! Nothing. Like the trailer wasn't even there. Its weird to explain, but you definitely realize you were doing it when you don't have to anymore. I even threw in a couple hard swerves when the road was straight and clear. It was uncanny. The trailer just followed the truck. It sounds like a simple thing to say, but if you have experienced the heart-thumping terror of an unsteady trailer, you will appreciate how much that actually means.

Ran a blast down the interstate. Moderately windy day. Passed a few trucks. Got passed by a few trucks. No drama at all. I won't say I didn't feel anything, but it was more like pulling my 20 foot flatbed with my side-by-side on it, instead of a 35 foot camper. Just a light nudge here and there.

Backing into the driveway really showed how much different the camper handles with this hitch. The hitch made the camper seem to turn much tighter. First attempt, I wound up a good 4 feet over from where I usually park. I gotta spend some time to relearn how it handles now.

Unhooking at home was a bit of a bother. Could not find the right height to let the stinger 'release' from the hitch. I played around with the tongue jack, looking for that sweet spot, but they stayed firmly attached. Then I realized, I was hard up against my rear chock with the parking brake set. D'oh! I put the truck in neutral, eased off the parking brake and let all the 'tension' off. This did the job, and it was easy to find the right disconnect height. I even put a band of electrical tape around the breaker bar at the right height. I now know how high I need the hitch to be for easy hook/unhook. Dunno if it will work everywhere, but at least I know where to set it at the house.

Overall I am more than pleased so far. The hitch performed exactly as claimed. It's rare when a product lives up to its hype, but this hitch does. We are headed to Goshen next weekend. That will be the true test, but I am not dreading trailering up the Illinois Wind Tunnel this time.

Tim

Oh, I guess I ought to put in the picture. Before ya'all roast me for being nose-high with the truck tongue-low with the trailer, it's really not. Where I parked for the picture is kinda 'dished' and the front tires are sitting on a bit of a hump. I didn't realize it when I took the picture. I stopped for a Gatorade at a gas station, and it looked much better. I shoulda got a picture of it there.
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:40 PM   #2
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Glad you are discovering what myself and a handful of others on this forum have. But as you know it can be a tough crowd here as the general consensus will be you massively over paid for a hitch that just covers up mistakes on the loaded trailer weight and you instead should have bought a massive truck for 20x the cost of the awesome hitch.
Happy camping and enjoy the safest towing experience for tt on the road.
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Old 08-05-2019, 08:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowracer View Post
light nudge here and there.

Backing into the driveway really showed how much different the camper handles with this hitch. The hitch made the camper seem to turn much tighter. First attempt, I wound up a good 4 feet over from where I usually park. I gotta spend some time to relearn how it handles now.

Unhooking at home was a bit of a bother. Could not find the right height to let the stinger 'release' from the hitch. I played around with the tongue jack, looking for that sweet spot, but they stayed firmly attached. Then I realized, I was hard up against my rear chock with the parking brake set. D'oh! I put the truck in neutral, eased off the parking brake and let all the 'tension' off. This did the job, and it was easy to find the right disconnect height. I even put a band of electrical tape around the breaker bar at the right height. I now know how high I need the hitch to be for easy hook/unhook. Dunno if it will work everywhere, but at least I know where to set it at the house.

Overall I am more than pleased so far. The hitch performed exactly as claimed. It's rare when a product lives up to its hype, but this hitch does. We are headed to Goshen next weekend. That will be the true test, but I am not dreading trailering up the Illinois Wind Tunnel this time.

Tim

.

Easy way to find the right "unhook" height is to place your finger on top of the hitch head right under the trailer's tongue where the ball is. As you lower the jack you'll feel a slight give as the head releases from the ball. When you feel that the weight of the trailer is off the stinger.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:46 AM   #4
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Yours is probably a little different than the Hensley but I just lift my tongue jack a few turns up once it makes contact with the ground. Then I loosen up the screw jacks just till they loose tension and usually around that point the stinger is loose. Might take a slight adjustment here or there but the stinger moves freely in my hitch. Then I pull forward and it comes out super easy and when I go to hook up again all the angles and heights are perfect. It doesn’t matter if I hook up straight or side to side.

More than likely what you feel when driving is your whole rig (both tv and trailer) moving at the same time. It feels like a pull or push but it’s definitely not sway. There’s no danger involved, you’re probably just hypersensitive and will soon stop noticing it.
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Old 08-06-2019, 08:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oafdawg View Post
Easy way to find the right "unhook" height is to place your finger on top of the hitch head right under the trailer's tongue where the ball is. As you lower the jack you'll feel a slight give as the head releases from the ball. When you feel that the weight of the trailer is off the stinger.
I did something similar... There is always a little slop in the receiver, and I raised the jack till I saw the hitch come up in the receiver a touch. It was probably free as a song at that point, but with the trailer backed up hard against the chocks, and the truck holding it there, it was impossible to tell.

Putting the truck in neutral and releasing the parking brake let off all the strain. It was dead easy to find the right point then.

tim
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:04 PM   #6
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Thanks Cowracer for sharing your ProPride 3P experience. My DW ignored my protests over the cost of the PP and ordered the ProPride 3P 14K hitch last week. We have the 2018 model of the same Rockwood Signature UL 8329SS trailer that you do and bought the Reese Pro Straightline 12K with Dual Cam sway control hitch for it. We absolutely love the trailer but my DW has zero confidence that trying all the WDH adjustments possible and loading the TT differently will improve our sway problems. Our TV is a GMC Sierra 2500HD Double Cab 4x4 truck so we are not even nudging the weight limits. Since I already want to replace the china bomb tires on the TT "just because" she decided that her travel experiences will greatly improve by not having to watch me drive two handed and white knuckled.

So thanks again for sharing. We will still have to figure out correct loading of the TT but it shouldn't be as much of an influence on the towing experience with the new Propride hitch hopefully.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lzerarc View Post
Glad you are discovering what myself and a handful of others on this forum have. But as you know it can be a tough crowd here as the general consensus will be you massively over paid for a hitch that just covers up mistakes on the loaded trailer weight and you instead should have bought a massive truck for 20x the cost of the awesome hitch.
Happy camping and enjoy the safest towing experience for tt on the road.
I've always said the the ProPride and Hensley designs are superior at sway control but they're not superior at weight distribution. They definitely have a niche in the market.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:28 PM   #8
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Tim, that Ford looks a little high in the front and saggy in the *****.
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by walkr089 View Post
We will still have to figure out correct loading of the TT but it shouldn't be as much of an influence on the towing experience with the new Propride hitch hopefully.

I expect you are correct in that "correct" loading won't be as much of an issue. On my rig, the FW tank is at the back. I've towed with it full, partial and empty. Haven't noticed any difference in how the trailer behaves.


My main recommendation: while hitching or unhitching, make sure the WD bars are loose. If you are hitching and the stinger is not going in, recheck that the WD bars are still loose. When the trailer and TV are on different planes, the stinger can try to twist the hitch head putting tension on the bars. Releasing the tension and giving the stinger a push with your foot can result in it sliding in...


If you find your trailer starting to get a bit wonky while towing, recheck your hitch head and make sure the frame bracket hasn't shifted left or right, which can happen if you make a really tight turn.



Safe travels!
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:04 PM   #10
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Tim, that Ford looks a little high in the front and saggy in the *****.
Better that SOGGY in the **** end there, waterboy...
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:11 PM   #11
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I've always said the the ProPride and Hensley designs are superior at sway control but they're not superior at weight distribution. They definitely have a niche in the market.
Dunno if it's a niche or not, but if they sold for $600 instead of $3K, the rest of the WDH makers would go out of business.

It amazes me that some of the same people who advocate automatically changing out my OEM Castle Rock tire "for safetys sake", will in the very next breath tell me that buying a Propride is just a "bandaid" for setup issues they arbitarily decided i have. I guess safety has a dollar limit, and $3000 appears to be it.

Tim
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:36 PM   #12
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Having used the E2, Equalizer and now 3P, I think the 3P is by far the easiest system to get your wd dialed in. It's so easy to adjust on the fly. With the Equalizer or similar setups, you need to move the L brackets or add washers. The 3P you get the initial setup with the adjustable singer (better than Hensley system) but any fine tuning is a simple crank on the jacks. At the scales I was able to do 3 passes with different wd settings in 15 minutes with very noticeable results even with going only .25" up each time on the jacks. Very easy and fast system from my experience. I think systems like the blue ox or Andersen would be easy to adjust on the fly too, but I have never used one.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:41 PM   #13
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Dunno if it's a niche or not, but if they sold for $600 instead of $3K, the rest of the WDH makers would go out of business.

It amazes me that some of the same people who advocate automatically changing out my OEM Castle Rock tire "for safetys sake", will in the very next breath tell me that buying a Propride is just a "bandaid" for setup issues they arbitarily decided i have. I guess safety has a dollar limit, and $3000 appears to be it.

Tim
Well I guess my limit is $3600 then, cost of the 3P and GYE tires 😁

But they had about 7k miles and 3 years old so decided this season was time.
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:08 PM   #14
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Thanks for posting. I agree on the install. It helped a lot to have a second person helping me. Took me 3hrs on a hot day to install vs 45min with my blueox. The second time I would be quicker for both.

A few of the follow up tips helped me as well when I first got mine. A few more things I learned the hard way or from others. This had a learning curve for me.

3600 is way cheaper than 20k. I agree of they hit even 800 they would outsell most other WDH.

Dont use a impact drill on the WDH Jack's. The pin will break (as designed to prevent gear stripping). Using your drill is fine but set the clutch to release and a slow speed not drill. If you use the drill carry a few extra pins and some pliers to open it up if it breaks. I was stuck in WY once and could not unhook. I had to send a friend traveling with us to get a screw or pin to fix it so I could change the WDH to unhook.

I changed from the round foot Jack to a much smaller foot. If in a tight space I release the WDH to allow the WDH bars to move out to raise or lower the tongue jack.

Watch your chain length dont get them too tight. They can catch on the bottom of the hitch at the early part of a turn (at the swing) and push back causing a very strange sway if they are too short. This will dent the silver coverings which is cosmetic but it made for some very strange feelings when driving. I pulled over and figured it out quickly. Best is to angle the truck about 5 degrees from center and you will see the max length. It was NOT max length at straight because of the bars.

Always hook your chains INSIDE the WDH. I failed to check once and ripped them off the trailer...sadly same WY trip. It was a bad day.

I never knew my truck zoomed in on the rear camera. I thought the + was more options and not camera angles or zoom. Zoom makes it sooo much easier to get things hooked up and unhooked.

When disconnecting and loosening the WDH bars dont go too far as the bars will bend the connecting bars. Again this is cosmetic but could cause them to eventually become brittle.

Hooking up works best if you either have everything loose or you are at the same angle you hooked up at. If you are not aligned it's easier to pull up and start again. Get out and look because the camera will not tell the full story even zoomed in. Same with unhooking. Things will not move unless you loosen the WDH just like every other WDH out there.

On the proper height for disconnect I watch my hitch pin on the ball. When it is able to rotate freely or shifts I am at a point where things are loose. You can also just release everything and put the truck in drive. If at the right height it will pull out without any gas. I typically get the reverse camera to turn on and then pull forward an inch to see if I need to raise or lower from there before pulling away.

If you are getting the "bump" when stopping straight every time check your trailer brakes as they either are not working or need adjustment.

Because of the way the pivot works it is more like driving a fifth wheel than a traditional ball. Does this resolve all your sway issues, no but it does solve a majority of them and makes loading impact less as well. I still get pushed with 30mph cross winds but now the whole truck and trailer moves sideways instead of the trailer going one way and pushing the truck the other way.

Happy towing!
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:25 PM   #15
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I will say changing tires on our 8329SS made a noticeable difference as well, just saying.
I really believe this unit is heavily loaded on the left side from the factory. With kitchen in the super slide, bath bedroom slide, heater, water heater and outside storage. It's just too much I think this causes the sway issues. My left front trailer tire always looks lower on pressure then the rest. Sorry just a rant.
I place my finger on the stinger touching receiver at the same time, when you feel it move it's usually freed up.
If your stinger isn't close to going into hitch within 2ft abort and try again. It is near impossible to correct the angle at that point. I do have the Hensley so my target is much smaller so YMMV. So many times I can get hooked up in first attempt (no camera) but there are times when 5 or 6 attempts will get me frazzled. Just a little tidbit for ya!
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:53 PM   #16
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Is there a theft concern with these hitches; either the Hensley or the ProPride?
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:13 PM   #17
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Is there a theft concern with these hitches; either the Hensley or the ProPride?
Stealing the hitch would involve some serious wrenching and either about a hours time (hand tools) or a large amount of noise (power tools).

Stealing the stinger would be about as hard as stealing any other hitch ball of a truck.

Stealing the camper? Well, unless you have a stinger or a lot-bar, you ain't stealing nuthin.

ti
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:33 PM   #18
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Is there a theft concern with these hitches; either the Hensley or the ProPride?
It will take a few minutes to drop the hitch off the ball and angle it out as well as unhooking the bars. I had to do it once. It takes 5-6 bolts and 5-10min depending on if you know what you are doing.

I figure if you want to do all that you were taking the trailer anyway. If you paid for the stinger you are not a trailer stealing type. I no longer lock mine up and just leave the hitch alone. I donated the tongue lock to the boy scouts.
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