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Old 05-22-2016, 07:39 PM   #31
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Location: Sparks, NV
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A squared, we have true sway,and tail wiggle. No porpoising. The sticker on the trailer from the factory says gvwr is 8938, gawr 4000 front and rear, hitch weight 938, and cargo cc 1588. Trailer tire filled with nitrogen to 60psi cold, and truck ties inflated to 65psi cold which is max rating. Thank you

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Old 05-22-2016, 07:43 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by indybp57 View Post
I would verify the tongue weight is correct before proceeding down any rabbit trails. #1 cause of sway above a certain speed is being tail heavy.

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Old 05-22-2016, 08:19 PM   #33
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Several points:

If your trailer is not balanced correctly, you will have problems, with or without a WDH. The trailer needs 10-15% of the trailers total weight on the tongue.

Even with a dually, a heavy trailer without a WDH will remove weight off of your front axle. This is bad, even if you aren't overloaded in the rear. If the trailer is over a certain weight , a WDH should be used.

If you are heavier in the rear of the trailer, this is a disaster waiting to happen. You must shift weight to the front, in order to achieve the 10-15% tongue weight.

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Old 05-22-2016, 09:21 PM   #34
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Since this started the moment you drove off the lot with an empty TT and your TV is big enough to not need a WHD . You might want to take a close look at the axles, springs , shackles on the TT , need to know if the TT axles are aligned correctly, tracking straight . then the next thing is TG weight like they all say 10 to 15 % so look for 12.5 % to keep everybody happy .also how are the shocks on your TV . Then once this is all good and correct get an Andersen WHD perfect for your set up, Oh and then get rid of the D-load rated tires and get some 10 ply load 80PSI tires , the sooner the better
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:28 PM   #35
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I had a 2703 Rockwood with a superslide. In order to settle it down we placed all the weight we could under the front bed, mounted bikes above the bottles and drove with a full water tank. This helped but was never 100%.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:20 AM   #36
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I'm getting a sense that you are unevenly distributed weight wise. I spent last summer (my first summer towing) that balancing weight is an art as much as a science and changes each time you hitch up. Check your weights, ask your dealer to tow it on an equal sized truck to rule yours out, and contact FR.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:32 AM   #37
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I agree that your tongue weight is too light. I solved the same problem by filling up my fresh water tank which is in the front of the trailer adding a couple of hundred lbs. to the tongue weight.
Mario Martinez
2703WS Rockwood Super Lite (6,400 Dry weight)
Tow Vehicle - 2010 Ford F-150 Super Crew
5.4L V-8 6-spd auto 2x2 9,800 Lbs. towing capacity.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:40 AM   #38
Join Date: Feb 2016
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We have a hemisphere 302FK our front kitchen is very tongue heavy factory says 1060 no propane or batteries. Our solution was getting a pullrite tt hitch but if Hensley or pro pride is too much the pullrite is worse. The pullrite is awesome but if you are light on the tongue weight it's really not necessary.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:12 PM   #39
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 69
Sway elimination

The solution for my sway elimination was the Hensley Arrow hitch. I was ready to sell my trailer and buy a 5th wheel or go back to a motorhome if I could not eliminate the sway issues pulling my Stealth SS22-16 Toy hauler (27') (5200lbs) with my 2008 Sequoia rated to pull 9600lbs.

I had tried everything suggested on this forum, but I still did not get away from the white knuckle nerve racking driving every time I towed my trailer.

I was not happy spending $2000 on a Hensley hitch, but their unconditional 60 day full refund policy and testimonies made me take the leap.
And I have never spent $2000 better. Now there is absolutely zero sway and i have to remind myself that I am even pulling a trailer as I don't even feel it there unless accelerating or stopping. I could now go through a slalom course with no sway/oversteering concerns (see their video doing this). They also have a brake controller that was much better then my previous one as it actually has accelerometers in it that do all the tuning real time and has super smooth stops.

I don't want to sound like a ad for Hensley, but it totally eliminated sway and that horrible feeling I used to get before.
I had a friend drive it who has a 5th wheel. He drove it and said it was as good or better then his 5th wheel.

I saw a lot of other good answers from experienced people on this forum as this is a common topic. I tried them and got some improvements.
But none of them provided a solution that I would live with.
I was convinced that pulling a trailer was just not in my comfort zone.
Maybe they are just better drivers and have a higher tolerance for sway...?
But now I am very happy towing my trailer and we are headed for a 10,000 mile trip from San Diego to Alaska and back for 7 weeks in June and July.
This will be the ultimate testů but so far so good!
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:25 PM   #40
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Another possible culprit is TV tires- and it's not a load rating issue. I had a 1997 Ford F250 2WD 7.3L PSD X-cab. Had stock size highway tires. Had pulled our camper many miles. Needed new TV tires. Decided to put on a mild AT that was slightly taller and wider- next step up. Took a trip and the truck was all over the road. It was almost uncontrollable. Went back and talked to tire shop. Had tires rebalanced. Same thing. Was telling the story to my parents whom I bought the truck from(they bought it new) and my step dad said he'd already been down this road and to put STOCK size STREET tires on it- least aggressive tread possible. Of course, I didn't take this advice and decided to try a stock size mild AT tire. Better, but still all over the road. Back to a stock size highway tread and pulled great. Should've listened. BTW, all of these tires were LRE.

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