Flagstaff 5th Wheel Hitch Elevation

[LTnTN]

My camper looks a little nose-high after switching to the 2500, but I only have about 5” clearance above the bed rail. My question is, will the axles evenly distribute the weight of the camper, or will the rear axle carry more? There’s a slight crown in the parking lot in the pic.

[Bama Rambler]

It appears that the Flagstaff fifth wheels have torsion axles. If that's the case for yours (you don't say what model or year you have) then the rear axle and tires will carry more weight than the front ones do.

In spring hung units the equalizer evens out the load even in out of level situations.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

It appears that the Flagstaff fifth wheels have torsion axles. If that's the case for yours (you don't say what model or year you have) then the rear axle and tires will carry more weight than the front ones do.

In spring hung units the equalizer evens out the load even in out of level situations.

Sorry, it’s a 2015 8528RKWS. I don’t think it has any springs. When I replaced the tires, I went with the Maxxis M8008’s. I weigh just under 9,000 lbs. and ran my pressures at the D-rating pressure 65 PSI with the old truck (sat level). Would it be better to run the camper rear axle pressure more near 80 PSI with this truck?

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by LTnTN

Sorry, it’s a 2015 8528RKWS. I don’t think it has any springs. When I replaced the tires, I went with the Maxxis M8008’s. I weigh just under 9,000 lbs. and ran my pressures at the D-rating pressure 65 PSI with the old truck (sat level). Would it be better to run the camper rear axle pressure more near 80 PSI with this truck?

What ever you run as far as psi run the same psi in all tires . i would say since you went from D to E by running 65 psi you have not gained the extra weight carrying capacity the LRE's offer but limited yourself to the load of the D rated tire by only running the same psi as the D's JMHO

[Bama Rambler]

On those type axles you really need to get the RV pretty level. They make a lift kit for those axles that you could install and get the RV higher to better match the truck. I don't think increasing the air pressure in one set of times is the thing to do.

[TheWolfPaq82]

I see setup's like that, but WAY higher at the nose than yours everyday running I-80 thru town.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

On those type axles you really need to get the RV pretty level. They make a lift kit for those axles that you could install and get the RV higher to better match the truck. I don't think increasing the air pressure in one set of times is the thing to do.

I’ll look into the kit. I know it’s not extreme, but I understand it would be better if closer to level.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by MR.M

What ever you run as far as psi run the same psi in all tires . i would say since you went from D to E by running 65 psi you have not gained the extra weight carrying capacity the LRE's offer but limited yourself to the load of the D rated tire by only running the same psi as the D's JMHO

Agree. The camper sat very level on the F150, so the D-rating pressure gave me a good cushion on weight as light as my load is.

[Jimer]

Could I ask what hitch you are using and height setting ?? I am going to be picking my new 5er up next week, similar to yours. Do you know your tongue weight? Could I also ask how high your bed rails were before hookup and how much did it squat?

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by Jimer

Could I ask what hitch you are using and height setting ?? I am going to be picking my new 5er up next week, similar to yours. Do you know your tongue weight? Could I also ask how high your bed rails were before hookup and how much did it squat?

Replied to your PM

[itat]

If lowering the hitch isn’t an option then definitely look into the lift kit. I would also suggest you consider upgrading your trailer tires to Load Range E for more safety margin. Maxxis M8008s are great trailer tires though.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by itat

If lowering the hitch isn’t an option then definitely look into the lift kit. I would also suggest you consider upgrading your trailer tires to Load Range E for more safety margin. Maxxis M8008s are great trailer tires though.

The tires are actually Load Range E, but I’ve just been running them at the pressures that Maxxis advertised for achieving a D-rating. I may raise the pressures for a little more safety margin. The camper originally had C’s on it, which barely met the max load rating for the camper.

[justpassinthru]

Originally Posted by Jimer

Could I ask what hitch you are using and height setting ?? I am going to be picking my new 5er up next week, similar to yours. Do you know your tongue weight? Could I also ask how high your bed rails were before hookup and how much did it squat?

Hi. Jimer. I’m in Winter Haven Fl. I bought a Curt Q20 slider hitch and fyi. I dislike Camping World. But they had and believe still have any install for $59 labor. Total job w tax out the door was $1200. I tow with a 2019 f250 6.2 gasser 6ft 3/4 bed. Tow a Jayco 32 ft 5th wheel and I have 6 inches between bed rails and Rig. Now I added Timbrens. Look them up easy remove 2 nuts take out Factory stop and install timbrens. Total weight around 11,000 lbs only squats 1.5 inches. Hope this help. Thanks Jim M

[Tundra 2014]

With the torsion axles, when you turn tightly it puts a lot of force on the inside wheels. Forrest River built them w/ light material in the cross reinforcement bars. The unlevel condition will put even more pressure on the rear axle and tires. I would look into cost of blocks to level, if available. I would also tow an hour on the highway next trip. Then pull over and shoot tires w/ an infrared temp gauge ($15). Check if rear tires are getting warmer and how much warmer, to give you a better idea of potential stress and problems. Also good to check bearings lube or condition. This would make me more confident and comfortable, as FR puts tires on that are at the bare limit of weight class.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by Tundra 2014

With the torsion axles, when you turn tightly it puts a lot of force on the inside wheels. Forrest River built them w/ light material in the cross reinforcement bars. The unlevel condition will put even more pressure on the rear axle and tires. I would look into cost of blocks to level, if available. I would also tow an hour on the highway next trip. Then pull over and shoot tires w/ an infrared temp gauge ($15). Check if rear tires are getting warmer and how much warmer, to give you a better idea of potential stress and problems. Also good to check bearings lube or condition. This would make me more confident and comfortable, as FR puts tires on that are at the bare limit of weight class.

You and I think a lot alike! I used IR thermometers and gauges a lot when I worked. That would be a excellent way to check loading without scales.

I just went through the bearings a couple of months ago, and I did do the “touch” test of the hubs when I did my test run, although it was pretty short. I’ll pay a lot of attention on my next run (always check at every fuel stop anyway).

I’m already looking at the leveling kits, which appear to be pretty easy installations. I noticed there were slotted bolt holes in the pics. How likely is it that an alignment issue will develop if I install one?

[tomkatb]

When purchasing a new fiver 18 months ago I discovered that in 2010 or so pretty much all 3/4, 1 ton trucks got higher rails,

Most of the smaller fiver manufacturers did nothing to raise the fronts of the fiver to allow the use of 3/4 ton trucks.

Unfortunately, half ton trucks are really not designed to tow that much weight.

A trailer salesman said. We will not sell fivers to anyone with a half ton truck. All the fifth wheels go out of here nose high.

It does put added weight on the rear fiver wheels.

Raising the suspension in any way voids the warrantee. And raises the height of the unit. I discussed this with one company. Obviously did not buy theirs.

I specifically bought a Cedar Creek Hathaway because I could tow it level with a hd truck.

It must be ok to be 6” nose high, I guess. I have seen some really neat 2” deep grooves in asphalt near camp sites because of this. That must be ok too.

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Raising the suspension in any way voids the warrantee. And raises the height of the unit. I discussed this with one company. Obviously did not buy theirs.

Mine is a 2015, so it’s way out of warranty, but I am a little reluctant to raise something that is 12’+ high already. The other option is lowering the rear of the truck some, but it is still under warranty, so I’m not too keen on doing that either.

[tomkatb]

If it were me

Likely tires are sort of needed. I would put the tallest highest rated available. Measure carefully. All kinds of potential issues

Then I would add the center spring lift system

That should lift 2-3 inches

All interstates accommodate trucks up to
13 ‘ 6”. Then be careful on side roads. Not that hard

[LTnTN]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Likely tires are sort of needed. I would put the tallest highest rated available. Measure carefully. All kinds of potential issues

Already have almost new Maxxis E-rated tires. Just need to raise the air pressure to 80 psi to get that rating.

[PhoneDude 8289]

This RV when stock towed level with my Tundra. When I traded for the HD truck it looked very much like the photo ti OP posted. I added a 2-1/2" lift to the torsion axels and leveled it almost perfect. 6+" of bed clearance.