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04-20-2016, 11:30 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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AH... here we go. We've had 5 rvs and 3 TVs. 2 were gas and the last was diesel (in the signature). I will never go back to gas.... EVER. The tow is effortless and the mileage is so much better.
All the gas engines seemed to struggle on most real hills and it just sounded painful Any wind and the mileage was out the window.
The diesel just motors on down the road and we avg 21 empty and 10-11 pulling.
Of course I'm a Duramax fanatic but even my Ford loving brother has to admit the advantages when it comes to towing our nearly identical rigs.
Good luck on your new truck and enjoy!
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-21-2016, 10:07 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 263
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Yep, if money is no object and you can stomach major repairs...diesel is the way to go 😄
__________________
-2017 Ram Cummins, Aisin DRW 3.73, 4x4
-2015 Wildcat 317RL
-B&W Companion , MorRyde pinbox
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04-21-2016, 11:57 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Learjet
Yep, if money is no object and you can stomach major repairs...diesel is the way to go 😄
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Yeah, I hear that half truth/myth often from folks who have either never owned one or had a bad experience (which you can have in gassers also).
Our duramax is almost 10 years old we've never had any maint costs that we wouldn't of had on a gasser (hoses, belts, etc). The only thing that actually costs us more is oil changes
Everybody has preferences/opinions and ours are just different on this subject. As long we get our RVs down the road it's all good.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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04-21-2016, 12:20 PM
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#24
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Wanna Be Camper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpadamson
My dealer said if I wait till warranty is out, then it is 3 more years of warranty on the gears and bearings. If I change out during warranty, it is out at 3 yr/ 36000miles. Cost quoted to me is $3k for a 4 wheel drive. If you check the specs it adds more carrying capacity and torque of course. I seldom use 6th speed since I am not on the Interstate much unless we are traveling, if I put the gears in I imagine I will get to use 6th more. I have about 800 to 1000 lbs margin with the TH now. If you want more than that or load heavier toys, then at least 4.10s should be considered. imho, and I am still considering...
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It only adds more capacity GCWR wise if the gears were in the truck from the factory. What is on the sticker on the drivers door pillar is what you have and adding springs or gears will not change what the truck is legally allowed to carry or pull.
__________________
John & Deb
2011 F250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab 6.2
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30WRLS
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04-21-2016, 01:09 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenshield
Just as an aside, have you looked into a lightly used Powerstroke as an option? I went from a tuned and deleted 6.4 Powerstroke( reluctantly ) to a used 6.7 and was worried about the DEF. It's not a big deal at all.
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Yes, that may very well be the route that I go!
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05-20-2016, 09:19 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 222
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Going to revive an old thread for some info. (But I guess that was these forums are for?)
Anyway,
Towed my TT (Flagstaff 27 BEWS) for the first trip with my 2016 Ford 6.2L Crew cab 2WD 3.73 rear. In "tow haul" the whole trip. Went to the scales on the way out and weighed the trailer only ( I know, what was I thinking?) Came in at 6060 lbs. Just the trailer wheels on the scale. On the way home weighed the whole rig, with everyone in the cab and about 3/4 tank of fuel. TT water tanks empty. Steer axle:3780 Drive axle:4620 Trailer axle: 6060 Gross weight: 14460
The truck took some getting used to the gear ratios. Tried to keep it in 5th as much as possible. Dropped to 4th on some grades and overpasses, and got into 6th briefly for some down hill runs. It seemed to perform best following a big rig at maybe 67 mph. Tried the cruise, but quickly discovered that the truck needs to be directed as far as throttle is concerned.
Questions:
Are my weights good? Been working a few calcs and figure my tongue weight may be on the high side. I know my Equalizer WDH- the 10000 lb. model does not help there. But overall the numbers look decent to me for working the truck and not hurting it. Any input appreciated.
And, the drive gears. Are the gears mentioned above about the same for owners of similar TVs? I can tell if I come up to a steep grade, I am going to need most of the inventory in the tranny. That' a given.
Also, the M selection on the gear selections. Would I be better to manually grab my gears and will the "tow haul" work in this mode?
Thanks,
RMc
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05-20-2016, 09:35 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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I run my Diesel in TH and on the Interstate I am in 6th all the time towing 10k lbs. I also do not have any hunting issues. I use cruise control and let it manage the shift points. It does a much better job at running the truck than my foot can. I ran the same way with the F 150 Eco hauling the same trailer, no gear hunting, used 6th on flat land and dropped to 4th very rarely on hills.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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05-20-2016, 09:40 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B and B
I run my Diesel in TH and on the Interstate I am in 6th all the time towing 10k lbs. I also do not have any hunting issues. I use cruise control and let it manage the shift points. It does a much better job at running the truck than my foot can. I ran the same way with the F 150 Eco hauling the same trailer, no gear hunting, used 6th on flat land and dropped to 4th very rarely on hills.
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X2. Always in TH and cruise. Drop it to manual going down steep grades so the brake (if used) doesn't downshift the tranny.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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05-20-2016, 10:30 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
X2. Always in TH and cruise. Drop it to manual going down steep grades so the brake (if used) doesn't downshift the tranny.
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That was a question I had - Sometimes the tranny brake works great & just gently downshifts & it comes right out it but then sometimes it downshifts way too far & the engine is screaming & it doesn't like shift out of it nearly soon enough. So is switching to manual the way you all handle that?
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05-20-2016, 12:55 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oops
That was a question I had - Sometimes the tranny brake works great & just gently downshifts & it comes right out it but then sometimes it downshifts way too far & the engine is screaming & it doesn't like shift out of it nearly soon enough. So is switching to manual the way you all handle that?
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Exactly! The first time I braked on a steep grade w/o putting it in manual it scared the daylights out of both us as the engine was screaming until I thought to put it in manual and shift appropriately THEN we read the manual.
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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05-20-2016, 01:26 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 83
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Thanks!
Yea that's my normal way, why take 10 minutes to read the manual when you can figure it out in an hour & a half... hence the name "Oops"
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05-20-2016, 02:07 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,219
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What all of you are calling 'screaming' is normal engine braking. By not using it going down a mountain you have a good chance of overheating your brakes and then will be in real trouble.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
2010 F250 4X4 5.4L 3.73 LS
EQUALIZER E4 1200/12000
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05-20-2016, 03:50 PM
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#33
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Wanna Be Camper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
Yeah, I hear that half truth/myth often from folks who have either never owned one or had a bad experience (which you can have in gassers also).
Our duramax is almost 10 years old we've never had any maint costs that we wouldn't of had on a gasser (hoses, belts, etc). The only thing that actually costs us more is oil changes
Everybody has preferences/opinions and ours are just different on this subject. As long we get our RVs down the road it's all good.
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Yes there are bad experiences with any motorized piece of equipment. Diesel bad experiences are just more costly. I bought some rims and tires off a die hard diesel guy last week and we got to discussing vehicles. He had a 6.7 Dodge and just after his warranty was done he heard a slight knock in the engine on the way home from an camping trip, took it in to the dealer and was presented with a $15,000 estimate to have the bottom end of the engine replaced. And no that was not for a whole engine.
Just sayin
__________________
John & Deb
2011 F250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab 6.2
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30WRLS
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05-21-2016, 01:39 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet
What all of you are calling 'screaming' is normal engine braking. By not using it going down a mountain you have a good chance of overheating your brakes and then will be in real trouble.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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I will agree to disagree with ya on this one. In manual you can downshift slowly to the correct gear for speed control without over revving your engine.
When you brake on a steep grade in drive the tranny can quickly shift down 3 or more gears causing your rpms to get much to close to the redline (screaming).
You'll never convince me that is normal. And the manual advices you to use 'M' to prevent excessive rpms on steep downhills while also saving your brakes.
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05-21-2016, 02:07 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaskCampers
Yes there are bad experiences with any motorized piece of equipment. Diesel bad experiences are just more costly. I bought some rims and tires off a die hard diesel guy last week and we got to discussing vehicles. He had a 6.7 Dodge and just after his warranty was done he heard a slight knock in the engine on the way home from an camping trip, took it in to the dealer and was presented with a $15,000 estimate to have the bottom end of the engine replaced. And no that was not for a whole engine.
Just sayin
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I agree, diesel repairs are definitely more expensive. But really, 15k? I would of found a new mechanic or bought a Chevy😂
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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05-21-2016, 06:24 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 3,963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaskCampers
Yes there are bad experiences with any motorized piece of equipment. Diesel bad experiences are just more costly. I bought some rims and tires off a die hard diesel guy last week and we got to discussing vehicles. He had a 6.7 Dodge and just after his warranty was done he heard a slight knock in the engine on the way home from an camping trip, took it in to the dealer and was presented with a $15,000 estimate to have the bottom end of the engine replaced. And no that was not for a whole engine.
Just sayin
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$15K ~~~ did he have a gun during that robbery? He should have bought a Ford
__________________
2022 Montana 3855 BR
2019 F350 6.7 4X4 LB Dually
Edgewater 205 EX 150 Yamaha
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05-21-2016, 07:06 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 454
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As far as I remember the tow/haul mode gets switched off when you go into manualaw, which makes sense since it's just changing when it'll shift (it's just alternative settings for the electronic transmission). Remember to turn tow/haul back on if you want it when switching back to automatic.
I found that my transmission jumps around too much for my liking even on the slightly hilly bits of I-10 in the FL panhandle, so used manual there, but switched back to automatic on flatter ground.
The Rockies should be an adventure in a couple of weeks
__________________
2015 Rockwood Signature UltraLite 8281WS
2016 Ford F-250 Lariat CrewCab, 4x4, 6.2L V8
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05-21-2016, 07:21 AM
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#38
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Georgia Rally Coordinator
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: GA
Posts: 24,498
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With the newer trucks such as mine the manual never really gets to the point of when to use or not use TH mode. It is kind of up to the driver if he feels he needs to use it. Me I only use when encountering a good grade other wise I use standard drive mode. Get better milage also. Later RJD
__________________
2020 Shasta Phoenix SPF 27RKSS (sold)
2018 Dodge Ram 2500 6.4 3:73 gearing.(sold) (sold) 2015 Chevy 2500 6.0, 4:10
Traded 2015 30WRLIKS V-Lite
Days camped 2019 62
Days camped 2020 49 days camped 2021-74 2022-40 days 2023 5 days
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05-21-2016, 08:54 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 222
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The manual is one thing, hands on is another. I guess the "look before you leap" thing comes to play here. I reviewed the manual and talked to the service rep at the dealer. The overall consensus was when you hitch up, you go to tow haul. Period. Whether that is true or not is open for discussion, but it is what I will do.
My TV performed as if it was towing a load designed for it but not hurting it. I just want to know if there are alternatives to (as stated above "Oopps") correctly operate the equipment within limits.
An old timer at the RV park we stayed in recently made a valid statement. "Those that say it tows like it's not even there are liars".
Not calling anyone here a liar. Just absorbing some words of wisdom.
RMc
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05-21-2016, 10:12 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
I agree, diesel repairs are definitely more expensive. But really, 15k? I would of found a new mechanic or bought a Chevy😂
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yes, we know the Chevy's never have injector issues...
__________________
-2017 Ram Cummins, Aisin DRW 3.73, 4x4
-2015 Wildcat 317RL
-B&W Companion , MorRyde pinbox
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